Logroño vía Los Arcos

Evening before last we ate dinner in Estella, then we decided to visit the local church. The doors were locked, but as we turned to leave, the door opened and someone invited us in. We wete very happy to catch the tale end of Mass. We had an overcast but not rainy day from Estella, and we made the most of it, running up another 27 kilometers to Los Arcos. We skipped the famous wine fountain at Irache, mostly because we hit it before 8:00 am, and who wants wine–even if it’s free–at that hour? The route was more ups and downs, with less towns and support along the way. The skies threatened all day long, but never delivered the rain which seemed imminent.  We crosed the goat’s pass, and got into Los Arcos just before 3:00, and ended up with a private room in a pensíon again, as the cheaper rooms in the albergues were all taken.

We continue to eat ourselves very full of pintxos and pilgrim dinners, and we split two pitchers of Sangria before dinner, which was probably one pitcher too many.

We got an early start today, under more cloudy skies and possible rain, but our blessings held and we stayed dry. The walk was once again long: almost 29 kilometers, over the inevitable hills and valleys. At least we made it La Rioja, the famous wine region, and we’re staying in Logroño. We will certainly take a short hike tomorrow, because we are wiped out.

We’re staying in an albergue tonight, so we’ll doubtless hear the song of the snorebirds. I have been amazed how many times people ask if they snored, and looked honestly surprised when I told them they did! I think the Camino should have badges for snorers, rated by quality and type. A simple smiley face for non-snorers, a large “Zzz” for the rhythmic snorers, a boar’s head badge for the very loud, and a chainsaw symbol for the truly earth-shattering. The stickers would be in the dorm, and those kept up all night by the snoring could attach the sticker to the snorer’s backpack. We might even be able to establish rooms based on badges. Personally, I think I merit a solid “Zzz.” These are the kinds of crazy thoughts that wander through one’s mind at 1:00 am!