The Challenge of “Anti” politics

In many previous posts, I focused on the problems of anger and resentment in today’s political discourse. Some may respond it’s okay to be angry when the other side is so evil, and there is a point there. But even in those cases, being against something is not the same thing as solving the problem. In fact, it often leads to more, even worse problems. How so?

Exhibit one is the Biden administration and immigration. Remember how incensed people-on-the-left became over what they called the “Muslim ban” and the effort to “build the wall” during Trump I? It all seems so quaint now, doesn’t it? They were so secure in what they were against (i.e., Trump’s racism), they ignored the problem, which was increasing levels of illegal immigration at a time of economic and social insecurity. Democratic strategists, including some who were pro-massive immigration, warned the incoming Biden administration that there was a huge wave of people waiting to enter the United States one way or another. But being seen as “against” Trump’s policies was more important. Biden figuratively opened the flood-gates, and when the threatened wave materialized, he temporized. Biden and others first claimed those objecting were simply racists, and when the numbers kept increasing (and the videos becoming more and more disturbing), they suggested there was no problem. Remember Secretary Mayorkas assuring us the border “was secure?”

Then they tried to redefine the issue, to one about processing illegal immigrants. They tried to pass a bill which mainly meant to create more immigration judges to address the backlog, and then an app to regulate the flow of people to eliminate the crowds surging across the border. It was only after everything else failed that they enacted policies which largely stemmed the flow: an option always available to them, but one which they ignored because it admitted that perhaps Trump had correctly identified the problem. And they suffered an ignominious electoral defeat as a result. I still contend that even Biden’s disastrous debate performance was not as important as the complete loss of credibility around the immigration issue. What he (or later, she–Kamala Harris) said didn’t matter, because they clearly had no clue.

Lest you think this is a partisan affair, consider exhibit two: the Trump administration and prices. Trump attacked the inflation which the Biden administration tried to downplay, going a step further and claiming he would reduce prices. This was an impossibility, but played very well, especially when the Biden administration was claiming (again) things were going much better. I don’t know what Trump was thinking, perhaps he reasoned that “drill, baby, drill” would result in very low oil prices which in turn would reduce the Producer Price Index (PPI) and make things cheaper. Oil prices do have a strong effect on the PPI, but so much of the US economy is in services and not related to products it was unlikely to drive down prices overall. Trump was so against Biden’s inflationary initiatives that he made promises he couldn’t keep!

And that was before he attacked Iran, which he (and everybody else) knew would increase oil prices, at least in the near term. Now the Trump administration is reduced to various ridiculous claims: citing some products which are less expensive, or highlighting the stock market (which is booming due to Artificial Intelligence), or claiming it’s not even a war. These feeble excuses will garner the same electoral effect, I imagine.

Nor is the “anti” problem strictly American; it’s gone global! You may have heard that the Alternativ für Deutschland (AfD) Partei in Germany recently won a state-level election. AfD is a right-wing party, which is automatically suspect in Germany due to its history (i.e., the National Socialist or Nazi Party took power democratically–mostly–which made postwar Germany virulently suspicious of right-wing movements). AfD began in the former East German (Communist) states as an anti-Euro (the currency) movement. If you know one thing about history, recall this: nothing is more certainly anti-Nazi than a Communist. Despite this historical fact, all the other German political parties and the government bureaucracy joined together to shun the AfD as a neo-Nazi threat. The intelligence services labelled the AfD as extremists. All the other parties, including those on the right, agreed to create what they call the Brandmauer, or firewall. No one will cooperate with the AfD regardless of policy or situation.

For years this kept the AfD on the political fringes of power, even in the former eastern German states. Funny thing about that “anti” Brandmauer: it meant the AfD was outside the system, the power structure, which made them the only political movement untainted by the system, and therefore, an alternative in name and reality. As Germany went through the convulsions of Merkel’s “Wir shaffen das” (we can do this) welcome of seven million immigrants, then economic dislocation due to Germany’s reliance on cheap Russian natural gas, then the ongoing China shock of massive automobile imports, an alternative is exactly what Germans are looking for.

Now is the AfD a neo-Nazi party? There are neo-Nazis who support it. It is anti-immigrant, in much the same way the Trump administration is, as AfD supports re-migration. It is much cozier to Putin’s Russia than any other German party. But Nazi? Not even close. By way of analogy for those who don’t follow German politics, there are avowed Communists in the Democratic Socialists of America (DSA), who are welcomed in the Democratic Party. Is the Democratic Party therefore a Communist party? There are white-supremacists who support the Republican party stances on immigration: is the GOP therefore white supremacist?

Setting aside those arguments, the Brandmauer has made the AfD more outside the mainstream and therefore more successful. Instead, the Germans should have looked south to how Italy handled the Brothers of Italy movement. That group had similar right-wing positions and tenuous ties to earlier Italian fascist groups. But there was no firewall, as Italian politics admits no permanent friends or enemies. Brothers came to power, and found that running government is a moderating influence. I recall a visit to Italy no long after Giorgia Meloni became Prime Minister. A gypsy-cab driver in Naples regaled my wife and me on a drive up Vesuvius with a textbook, MSNBC view on the dangers of “the female Mussolini” (i.e., Ms. Meloni). According to him, it was only a matter of time until the brown shirts were goose-stepping past the Colosseum. Today, Meloni is the longest (continuous) serving Italian Prime Minister in postwar history, and widely considered one of the shrewdest, most successful European leaders. Brown shirts were optional, apparently.

My final exhibit is trivial, but shows just how ridiculous an “anti” mindset can become: witness the Trump Ballroom. I worked in Washington, DC, for thirty-straight years. I had a few occasions to visit the White House, and I always had the same two impressions. First, a sense of awe at what had transpired there, from Roosevelt to Reagan. And second, a feeling of disappointment because the place was, frankly, a little shabby. Nobody wanted to change or fix anything because “LBJ may have pissed in that urinal” (hypothetically) or because any change would be opposed bureaucratically (endlessly) or it could open the incumbent to charges they were tinkering with history or self-aggrandizing. Imagine that.

“I got your aesthetics right here.”

I never attended one, but I knew several people who did go to White House banquets, and they all had a consistent opinion: it was equal-parts memorable and embarrassing. Anything larger than a small dinner party had to be moved into tents on the White House lawn, with porta-potties (not kidding). Now these were very nice porta-potties, but seriously, for the British Royal family? Everybody knew it was a problem, but nobody was willing to fix it. Along comes Trump, a man so shameless and uninhibited by the rules he literally tears down the East Wing and builds a ballroom. I tend to agree with Chief Justice Roberts who characterized the entire effort as “likely unlawful.” If I said it, that would be one thing; it’s another thing altogether coming from the mouth of the Chief Justice, even in a minority opinion.

What’s this got to do with an “anti” mentality? Trump was able to pull off this so-called renovation through a series of maneuvers. He started demolition/construction without approvals, claiming he had the authority. When challenged, he stacked the deck of the various boards to post-facto approve his moves. There really was no way to stop him, which is what Chief Justice Roberts was referring to. Here’s the truly crazy part: The National Historic Trust sued to stop him, but to have standing, they had to show a “concrete” damage they suffered. They offered on the grounds that it damaged one woman board member’s “concrete and particularized interest in physically viewing, appreciating, and studying a historic building as it is.” There are some precedents along this line, but the Supreme Court was unwilling to buy it (neither did a lower court). The 5-4 decision found the plaintiffs had no standing, that is, no right to bring a case. Think about this, for a moment. To stop a ballroom which was necessary and was already well underway, and to which all other obstructions had been dismissed (even though those dismissals were dubious-but-legal), the “anti” crowd was willing to ask the US Supreme Court to establish a precedent that anybody could sue anybody else if it changed how they viewed a physical object. Living somewhere that law is more capricious and lawsuits infinitely less frequent, it is stunning such an argument was even put forward.

“Anti” politics is not even politics, which is the art for the possible. “Anti” politics is simply vengeance, mindless of the consequences. The good news is the punishment often fits the crime. It can usually be avoided. Biden had control of both Houses of Congress and could have put forward comprehensive immigration reform; he decided to posture instead. Trump could have relied on experts to develop policies (beyond more oil) to reduce inflation, but who needs experts? German political parties could have cooperated and moderated the AfD (they still might). And the ballroom? Let it be built, and after Trump is gone, name it for Obama. Problem solved.

Understanding China

Most politicians and pundits characterize the US-Chinese relationship as some sort of rivalry, with both sides seeking to dominate the other. You’ll hear references to the Thucydides trap, the notion that when there is one great power falling and another rising, there is often war between them. Some argue the US is falling and China rising, hence the trap; meanwhile, China-watchers point out China may have peaked, which is even more dangerous. There is undoubtedly a rivalry between China and the United States, but too many are keen to fall back on the Cold War as the paradigm to explain it.

For some time at the start of this century, America and its allies sought to integrate China into the global economy, based on the notion that such economic integration would inevitably lead to political liberalization. Most of the proponents of that policy now admit it was a dismal failure. China accepted the invitation, ignored the rules, and won convincingly. Why was the policy wrong, and how did China pull this off at a moment of US dominance? You can’t understand the Sino-American relationship without first understanding of few historical facts about China.

Start with the obvious: among nations, China has a unique combination of strong culture, vast territory, huge population, and plentiful resources. If you surveyed the world circa 1000 CE (Christian Era), the Song Dynasty was by far the greatest power, and you might have assumed the coming millennium belonged to them. They had a functioning central government, great schools, advanced technology (gunpowder, printing press, magnetic compass, printed money) and had surrounded themselves with client states that could not threaten them. This established the first lesson in Chinese history: when China is united, it is strong and respected.

The coming millennium was not theirs, however. They went through periods of internal disunity and external hubris which weakened them greatly. In the first decade of the 1400s, the Ming dynasty sent huge so-called treasure fleets to visit Africa, the Persian Gulf, the Indian Ocean and throughout Southeast Asia. When Columbus was desperately seeking to build and man a three-ship voyage to America, Chinese admiral Zheng He took 250 ships out in the treasure fleet. His ships were six-times longer, nine-times wider, and carried ten-times the load! Filled with precious gifts and thousands of emissaries (doctors, teachers, envoys, etc.), the fleet was designed to show the world that China needed nothing, but would deign to give the rest of the planet a taste of China’s superiority! Unsurprisingly, when money got tight, China simply stopped showing any interest at all in the rest of the world (lesson #2)

By the end of the millennium, the last Chinese dynasty was a large, sick empire picked over by small, distant, and powerful European states. To the Chinese, this was the Century of Humiliation, with foreign nations occupying important ports and setting up trading outposts, dictating to the Chinese the terms of peace and trade. This developed the third lesson for China: the world envies China, and will always try to minimize and weaken it.

Finally, the end of the Century of Humiliation only happened with the arrival of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP), which is the sole authority of China (final lesson). Mao Zedong may have initiated the CCP’s authority with his statement that “political power grows out of the barrel of a gun” but the CCP has only increased its credibility since then. While the CCP inflicted severe pain on the populace (the Cultural Revolution, the Tienanmen Square massacre), it also moved the largest number of desperately poor peasantry out of poverty in human history, and made China into a scientific and industrial powerhouse. That goes a long way in the minds of the Chinese people.

What does China want? China believes there is always a great country which is the center of power in the world. It seeks to be that power. It recognizes the United States is currently that power, but China believes America is gradually fading from the scene, and China wants to replace it, not necessarily fight it. China’s ascent ignored previous attempts by countries like Hitler’s Germany or Stalin’s Russia to become preeminent. Instead, China chose the American model: become powerful by competing using the resources (personal and national) available to it, not militarily dominating your rivals. Mind you, under a Communist government, that includes subversion (TikTok), intellectual property theft, currency manipulation, massive espionage, and economic strong-arming.

There is one other Chinese desire: to re-take the rebel island of Taiwan. China has reclaimed all the other territorial possessions lost during the Century of Humiliation (Manchuria, Macau, Hong Kong, etc.), but the anti-communist forces remain free on Taiwan. It is hard to explain the depth of this desire to Westerners, but here’s an analogy. Imagine the last Confederate hold-outs retreated to Texas, and refused to surrender. Washington decided it was best to leave them to their own devices, and so a rival “America” existed in Texas, constantly claiming to be the real America. The discovery of oil would only have exacerbated the relationship, much like Taiwan’s earlier economic growth and subsequent mastery of advanced microchips worsens the China-Taiwan feud. For the CCP especially, Taiwan is one last domino that must fall, or remain a reminder of an alternative the Party simply cannot stomach.

Unlike the Soviet communists, China does not have a model to export to the rest of the world. Rather, they prefer a world remade to accommodate China’s preeminence. There is a native Mandarin phrase which best describes this, and it is one which has entered into the English language, too: kau-tau, or more familiarly, kowtow. It means “head-banging” literally, but figuratively applies to the deep bow (forehead to the floor), which in ancient China represented an extreme form of submission before a superior. In such a world, China would not care what happened in New York, or London, or Paris, as long as it did not interfere with China’s wishes. China would control the world’s currencies, its means of production, its world governing bodies, its scientific and medical advances. It would all be for the best, as Beijing decides. After all, China has always been the “middle Kingdom.”

China would argue that its ascent as a great power has been within the rules of international law, as it were. They were invited into the World Trade Organization, and their massive exports, initially of low-value consumer goods, were welcomed as a cheap alternative to domestic production throughout the developed world. But they learned how to produce things, and there is a unique value in developing a chain-of-production (think cars, for example) where they master each step, innovating along the way, and eventually producing high quality products at competitive prices. Add into that the ability to ignore pricing or profit (it’s a command economy, after all), and China can simply rout entire industries in foreign markets. They did this to the US in the 2000-2010 period (the “China shock”), but now President Trump’s tariffs have turned China’s sights on Europe, with the same result.

In addition to unfair trade practices, China engages in rampant intellectual property theft. China invited the world’s best leading companies to build facilities in China, if they wanted to sell in China. Those companies (like Tesla, Volkswagen, Apple) trained Chinese managers and workers. Then those same people left the firms and started new companies with heavy government investment, eventually besting those who trained them, based on their insider knowledge. There is no such thing as a non-compete agreement in China. This is also evident in the race for Artificial Intelligence (AI). China has several AI start-ups that produce new models just slightly less capable (but much less expensive) than the leading American ones. How do the Chinese stay just behind but never get ahead? They engage in “distillation,” a practice where they secretly use the public-facing side of US models to train new Chinese ones. It’s almost as effective, but much cheaper.

Chinese President Xi can see the finish line of China’s quest to be the preeminent power. But he knows that China is rapidly aging (demographically), and its population is shrinking, so the youth dividend period of economic development is over. China has vast resources, but it did not become rich before it grew old. And he must purge his military leadership regularly due to rampant corruption, while they have not fought a war since 1979. Because he has total control over the Party and the State, he also knows China has enormous economic dysfunctions (ghost cities, no social safety net, huge government debts and a necessity to export due to poor domestic consumption) that must eventually be addressed.

Unlike those who worry about China surpassing the US, I’m more concerned with how the US manages the beginning of Chinese decline. This is the most dangerous period, when China’s leaders realize they might not ever achieve their goals. Decline has already started, and only a system-wide reset (i.e., the end of the CCP) can arrest it. Sino-American military rivalry boils down to one spot on the globe (Taiwan), and recent events in Ukraine and Iran suggest China is nowhere near prepared to fight its way onto the island. Some form of Chinese intimidation or blockade could work, so the issue is not settled. But all the rest of the issues between Beijing and Washington can be negotiated.

The initial western policy of normalizing China failed, but that does not mean war is inevitable. China has developed into a major economic force, and can still be normalized. You saw some of what that looks like at the May summit between Trump and Xi. There was no significant development: just two leaders talking. Why? Xi feels he has backed off Trump’s worst tariff threats, and made it known he is willing to use his dominance of the Rare Earth minerals as his own “Trump” card. This leaves him free to focus on Taiwan and the other domestic issues he needs to tend to.

American policy must deter the Chinese from invading or blockading Taiwan, while securing allies and resources in the global economy for the long-haul competition. America and Europe must resist succumbing to the siren song of inexpensive Chinese production, even when it is better, for it is the result of unfair competition, and will only lead to inevitable dependence. China is not a reliable partner, nor is it the new “Evil Empire.” It is a long-term economic and diplomatic rival, and the West has the means necessary to best it. If we find the will.

What Just Happened: Opinions “at sea”

The phrase “at sea” connotes deep confusion, where someone or something is completely lost. The USS Abraham Lincoln is literally at sea, but many choosing to voice opinions about it are figuratively at sea, too. It seems that aircraft carrier has been deployed for 250+ days, and now tales of stress, poor rations, and unsanitary conditions have reached the home front, along with at least one attempted overboard. I say attempted, as I am not sure what the point of jumping off a ship is: is it successful if you just hit water, or it failed if they simply pluck you back up and put you in the brig?

Let’s start with those who leap from these conditions (more on that, you betcha’) to alleging the President is mismanaging the war with Iran. Now there is a briefcase load of evidence of mismanagement in this war, but this is hardly the piece of evidence you want to settle on before the court of public opinion. Let’s review the facts.

Accepting that the allegations about food and sanitation are true, why is this happening? The main US supply base for operations in the region is in Bahrain; it opened in 1995. Look at the map.

it’s the tiny island northwest of Qatar

Why our most important supply base is so close to our biggest regional threat is, frankly, a question I would love to hear the CNO (Chief of Naval Operations) answer. There’s hubris, then there’s, well, this. The Iranians bombed and destroyed the base at the start of this phase of the war, but the Navy was smart enough to relocate the Headquarters and the sailors beforehand, so there were almost no casualties, but the facilities were lost. Meaning our resupply efforts have been ad hoc since. So there’s a good reason there might be supply problems. And our replacement depot is at Diego Garcia, a long way away. Funny thing, that: Iran fired two IRBMs (Intermediate Range Ballistic Missiles) at Diego Garcia . . . you know, the missiles it claimed it didn’t have, like its nuclear program.

But why are the problems only on the Honest Abe? There have been two other carriers deployed, and numerous smaller ships. Seems like we should hear more than just one set of voices. Unless, of course, the issue is the command climate on the Abraham Lincoln. So question number two is: Why is this specific ship having the problems it is experiencing?

Now to the specific complaints. Here are social media (alleged) pics of the offending food:

Show me an army in the field (or a navy at sea), and I’ll show you a soldier griping about the chow. That doesn’t mean the gripes are illegitimate, but they better be pretty strong before you get excited about them (the gripes, that is). I was an Army officer in 1983 in West Germany, during the Able Archer period (for those unfamiliar, this was when the Russians became convinced Reagan was about to unleash a nuclear blitzkrieg). I was in the field for more than 200 days that year, mostly living in tents attached to the back of my tracked vehicle. We had a guaranteed hot breakfast, C-rations after that. As an officer, I ate last, and I often got a scoop of (cold) green scrambled eggs, a single strip of bacon., and unlimited (cold) toast. It is what it is. And that was just near wartime. Those plates don’t show me anything at all. As to that gray mystery meat on the right, it’s practically a right of passage in the military. If you don’t believe me, believe Chef from Apocalypse Now:

“It was turning gray!”

Now the complaint about sewage backing up is more serious. Ships are complex systems-of-systems, and a breakdown in something as fundamental as waste removal can indicate even more serious problems. But it still happens all the time, even on cruise lines that depend on providing total comfort to their passengers. Given the length of this deployment, systems failing is a probability, not a possibility.

What about that deployment length? 250+ days sounds impressive, and in some ways, it is. But the carrier that was first on the scene during the air war, the USS Gerald R. Ford, completed 326 days deployed, with no such problems. The Lincoln has had about 60 days of actual combat operations during that period, much less than the carriers that supported Operation Desert Storm. Now it’s not like the non-combat days are days-off. Any stray missile or drone can send the ship to General Quarters (or “man your battle stations” as they say in the movies). But the Lincoln is far out in the Indian Ocean, and true strikes against it are rare.

Lack of mail service? Unfortunate but not really surprising. How about the Navy wife who complained she can’t reach her sailor husband on the internet? Does this mean sailors have ready access to the internet at sea during combat operations, and why? It’s not a “small ship, big ocean” challenge to find a carrier if it’s broadcasting its location. I marveled at the Russian soldiers who live-streamed their deployments prior to the invasion of Ukraine. “How unprofessional!” I thought. Question three: should someone check what constitutes professionalism in today’s Navy, at least with respect to EMCON (Emissions Control)?

The chief gripe seems to be the total length of deployment, with all the stress of combat operations (however long), without a port call. All military leaders understand the necessity of giving the troops a break, whether it’s a three-day pass in the Army or shore-leave for a port call in the Navy. The Marines prefer to continue their sadomasochistic ways and refuse leave, while the Air Force isn’t sure how it is different from, say, everything else.

Now I want to say something truly contentious: there is nothing inherently stressful about being at sea board an aircraft carrier. I’ve toured a Nimitz class carrier (The USS John C. Stennis). There’s a separate Officer’s Mess. There’s a gymnasium. There’s a library, a hospital (and a dentist), a barber shop, a laundry, and a chapel. There’s rudimentary climate control (mostly for the computers, but if you keep the hatches closed, even in the bunks). There’s a multipurpose room which can show movies or host ping-pong tournaments. There’s unlimited power provided by a nuclear reactor. You can go outside and take deep breaths of the sea air. It will never be confused with even a bargain cruise ship, but it’s very different from a submarine, a tank, an aircraft, or even a spacecraft. They’re called floating cities for a reason. Their very purpose is to provide sustained aerial combat power in the absence of land bases. And they do that very well.

So yes, the war is being mismanaged. And maybe the USS Abraham Lincoln is too. But let’s keep our opinions within the bounds of reason, shall we? A good friend recently gifted me a copy of Bill Mauldin’s Up Front. For those too young to know, Mauldin drew comics about and for front line soldiers in World War II. He lived with them and captured their dark sense of humor, publishing his works in spite of many complaints from the brass (higher-up officers).

The conditions he witnessed are incomparably worse than those discussed here. I’m not arguing we should accept those conditions, just that our complaints say more about us than about anyone else. Or how we might use something to score political points.

If there is a deep rumbling beneath the soil near Oak Ridge Cemetary in Springfield, Illinois, it might just be ol’ Honest Abe turning in his grave.

The Real Population Bomb

Back in 1968, a Stanford professor of biology named Paul Ehrlich published a book entitled The Population Bomb. In it he wrote, “The battle to feed all of humanity is over. In the 1970s hundreds of millions of people will starve to death in spite of any crash programs embarked upon now. At this late date nothing can prevent a substantial increase in the world death rate.” His work was hugely influential, rapidly becoming “settled science” and influencing views on birth control, abortion, population policy, and developmental aid.

Rarely has a simple prof been so influential, and yet so completely wrong.

His population growth forecasts were, if anything, under-estimates. He noted, for example, that India could not sustain a population of 200 million, which would be news to the 1.5 billion Indians alive today. He continued to maintain (until his death earlier this year) that he was fundamentally correct. What he missed with his mathematical accuracy on population was another implication of there being more humans, namely human ingenuity. Ehrlich was right that the world couldn’t feed itself based on the technology and agriculture of the 1960s, but he didn’t take into account a green revolution–produced by human genius–which made his dire predictions ridiculous. It’s odd that there are still some people wandering around today believing human overpopulation is some kind of threat, but then again, there’s still a Flat Earth Society, too.

I have written previously about the looming challenge of depopulation, a phenomenon which is happening across almost the entire globe. There is no simple cause: it occurs in social democracies with egalitarian cultures, consumerist America, authoritarian China, democratic India, and every culture and economy in-between. You can’t blame just the cell phone, or the government, or men, or feminists, or climate change. Even adding all these proposed causes together doesn’t make sense of the data, but the data are real.

Today I want to tackle one small aspect of the challenge. Increasingly, I see younger people (especially younger feminists) decrying that depopulation is even an issue. Their arguments tend to cite a woman’s right to choose whether to even have a child, often accompanied by images from Margaret Atwood’s dystopian Handmaid’s Tale (as if Boston-as-Gilead was a real possibility in rapidly secularizing America). They often throw the argument back on those raising the issue, claiming it is inherently misogynistic and only the fever-dream of men wanting to put women back in their place. When faced with the implications, they offer a ‘so-what?’ shrug. I saw a recent social media meme that went, “sorry boomers, we’re not having kids to take care of you in your old age!”

To say this misses the point, or rather invokes politics in something far more important, is an understatement. So let’s conduct a little thought experiment to see just how wrong this sentiment is. Imagine for a moment that all the women in the world agree to invoke their bodily autonomy and stop getting pregnant today. What would the societal implications be, and when would they hit?

The field of prenatal medical care would enter a death spiral, leaving it completely closed in nine months. Pediatric medicine would follow, along with any need for child-care, ending completely within about a decade. Within six years, pre-schools and kindergartens would close, and since the progression in inevitable, finding teachers to educate the last classes of children as they advance would become harder and harder.

An entire portion of modern economies, developed to serve the needs of children and adolescents, would rapidly react to the market place void: no children’s clothing, kid’s meals, sports leagues, summer jobs. This would create new economic incentives (someone has to mow all that grass) but decimate other industries (amusement parks). The lack of a future generation would free up capital spent on schools, but degrade all the research and development which brings us new technologies, new medicines, new businesses.

There would also be a mismatch between supply and demand. Say goodbye to housing shortages. Prices will plummet as supply initially remains stable but demand begins to drop. And without heirs, what new mechanism will emerge to say who gets what vacated property? And who will work in all the fast food restaurants? Common places like gas stations, restaurants, and stores will face massive consolidation, leaving behind decaying and abandoned infrastructure when the government itself no longer has the means to redevelop it.

Universities close up in two decades, with a few surviving by offering continuing adult education. With them goes college sports, and of course all the professional leagues begin to resemble old-timer’s games as the few remaining athletes continue to play in the absence of younger competitors. The globalized world we all have become so familiar with begins to close in on itself. There is no longer the infrastructure to support things like international travel or media, so our aging population stays closer to home. The good news is war becomes less frequent; the bad news is euthanasia becomes more so. Why hang around such a place? Obviously, in about one hundred years, there is no one left to turn off the lights.

As a thought experiment, it’s quite depressing. Of course, we should not fall into professor Ehrlich’s error and neglect other factors. What about technology? What about immigration? What about the simple fact that not everybody will stop having babies at the same time? Let’s take them in order.

Technology can indeed provide some relief. We can automate some services, relieving the need for people to provide them. The appearance of human genius (like, say Leonardo da Vinci) does not correlate with simple population growth, but it does with resources, networks, and social stability, all of which would be under stress. Perhaps the robots can replicate, but that puts humanity in a near-term race to build and code the robots in the first place. This leaves open the question of technology acceptance. I see people who disdain the use of self check-out at the grocery store; will they embrace a robot doing remote cardiac surgery? Maybe Japan will successfully restructure their schools into nursing homes staffed by lovable robots, but is that the future we long for?

Immigration can also provide some relief, but it comes with a caveat. This immigration will not be yesterday’s immigration, it will be tomorrow’s. How will it be different? Yesterday’s immigrants came seeking a better life, and they needed their adopted home much more than that adopted home needed them. Tomorrow’s immigrants will be a sought after commodity, a limited resource, and they will know it. They will come expecting benefits, rights, and promises up front. Those schools will stay open but teach in foreign languages. Cultural norms will change to reflect the interests of the newcomers, who must be appeased. Those immigrants will arrive expecting to vote as citizens, as they should (in this case). Again, this solution is a very different world.

Finally, a nod to reality. Unlike our thought experiment, all women everywhere aren’t deciding to never have children. In most places, they are deciding to have one. This means all those harsh outcomes from our experiment are watered down, happening over decades to a century and not all at once every few years. But let’s not kid ourselves that a world with a declining population will be just like the one we have today, only smaller. The changes are still real, and the challenges remain. Anybody who has lived through a period or a place with unplanned growth can tell stories of how messed up things become when the government doesn’t plan for the growth. Unplanned population reduction is the same way. If you want a hint of the possibilities, take a drive through the small Midwestern towns that have hollowed out due to job and population losses.

We just did such a tour of Indiana, Michigan, and Ohio. There are nice towns with vibrant centers, and places that look like movie sets for a zombie apocalypse. Some will never recover, and the people who still live there must just suffer one inconvenience after another. Lousy schools, no local hospital, with the major businesses being cannabis, fireworks, or liquor stores. Some of these lost towns made it for a while, but eventually the population decline got to them. Others are still thriving, but they require some population growth to keep making it. And one child per woman won’t provide it. Not to mention that the world has centuries of experience planning for population growth, yet we still get it wrong many times. To beat the dead horse, the world has never experienced long-term population decline, so the odds we will get it right are slim.

Look at major cities where the mayor or city council tries to decide today what schools to close. It’s a life-or-death decision for communities. Now imagine those same government figures having to decide who gets police coverage, or snow removal, or ambulance service.

I’m not advocating for any particular solution here. I’m pointing out that the people who will suffer the most if current population trends continue aren’t the baby-boomers. We will all be long dead before the changes really start crashing down. No, it is precisely those younger people so agitated by their elders telling them they need to start families. So make all the claims about your autonomy you like, and disregard what the old folks are saying. As we like to say in our family, “your punishment will fit your crime.”

A Patriotic Expat

I’ve written before explaining that the term expat is short for expatriate, simply meaning to live outside one’s country of citizenship. It does not mean ex-patriot, that being someone who no longer loves the country which formerly claimed their allegiance. Everyone has heard the saying, “you can’t tell the forest for the trees,” meaning you’re too close to a problem to really see it. Being an expat gives one distance to observe one’s homeland, and just as importantly, gives one experience with other cultures for comparison. The more well-traveled the expat, the clearer their vision should be.

We’ve lived in three countries (Germany, the US, Mexico) and traveled to about 50 others (not counting those airport transfers). We choose to live in Mexico because the climate, the culture, and the lifestyle suit us. Is it possible there is an exact match somewhere in the US for us? Almost certainly. As World Cup visitors have learned (much to their amazement), America is a huge and diverse place, in all the important ways. For us, we found the right fit at the right time in Mexico, and stopped looking. It’s still working for us.

From our distant perch, abetted by our frequent travels, we watch our homeland struggle with itself, like some adolescent on the verge of adulthood. Two-hundred and fifty years may seem like a lot, but in historical terms, America is precisely a young adult. There are many legitimate criticisms of America, and far more over-wrought and ridiculous ones.

Inequality of outcome and opportunity to succeed are opposite sides of the same coin. Communism promised absolute equality of outcome (in theory), and no sane person still favors it. If everyone is free to rise or fall, some will do so spectacularly . . . in both directions. That doesn’t mean we label one group “losers” and leave them to their own devices! It also doesn’t mean we take from those successful the fruits of their success to give away at our whim.

Many countries have less-costly, even guaranteed national health systems. None of them have the dynamic pharmaceutical and medical technique development of America. America is an outlier here, and one which serves that function for the entire world. Canada’s health system leads the world in one category: Medical Assistance in Dying (MAID). Free care in many western democracies involves months- or even years-long waiting lists, and government boards which have to approve some care against standards of overall utility (“no, I’m sorry, you’re too old for a hip replacement.”) Could the US use some form of guaranteed basic health, and perhaps maternity and early childcare coverage? Yes, but not at the cost of the lifesaving drugs and treatments it produces.

I’ve heard Americans complain about the state of corruption in government, and I can only shake my head. Trump’s seedy dealing with his pardon power is unsettling, and his crypto fortunes are outrageous . . . and both are completely legal. They need to be addressed through legislation, not outrage. But you haven’t experienced corruption until you sit across from a petty bureaucrat with the power to approve or deny your status and they demonstrate an “itchy palm.” Or get pulled over by a policeman who wants your “license, registration, and wallet.” Or businessmen shaken down for protection, or government leaders using foreign investors as convenient punching bags when things aren’t going well economically. Most of the world functions on a level of corruption off the scale of anything in the US (especially FIFA!).

I used to think Americans were too loud in public, wore inappropriate attire when traveling, and were rude to locals. Having seen Russians in England, Germans in Spain, and Chinese anywhere outside of China, I have re-evaluated my former judgments. Almost all European travelers adopt American-style athleisure attire when outside their home areas, and don’t get me started on the Greeks (or Turks, or Italians, or Ukrainians) shouting at each other in public spaces. Judy and I like to joke that the conversation is entirely normal. “HOW’s THE WEATHER?” “IT’s GREAT!” “NO, IT’s BETTER THAN GREAT!” “YOU’RE WRONG!” As to rudeness, we witnessed German children walking around a restaurant and attempting to take food off your plate (no, they were not begging), and now the French are having a debate whether parents need to discipline their children AT ALL in public. Much of American tourists’ “rudeness” stems from a lack of foreign language capability, and the vane hope talking LOUDER and S-L-O-W-E-R in English can work.

How can I say that, when anybody reading this has probably experienced an American being genuinely rude in a foreign country? Because every culture has such people. If you see as much foreign press as I do, you see the stories of Europeans defacing each other’s monuments, or Chinese tourists mobbing a store, people taking “souvenirs” from some protected site. It happens all the time. And let’s return to those World Cup visitors for a moment. YouTube and Insta are full of stories of foreign visitors being given free tours, meals, rooms, and gifts by those same Americans. They didn’t suddenly learn manners, people.

America remains the standard in so many things. Freedom of speech? It’s no contest. You can be arrested for silently praying in public in China, . . . and the UK! We call our President Hitler and see Nazis hiding all over the place, but don’t use those words in Germany. In fact, criticizing public officials is a crime in Germany, even if you don’t invoke he-who-shall-not-be-named. Business opportunity? There are ten times as many black millionaires in America as in all of Africa! While Americans are currently engaging in a round of self-flagellation over $4.00 a gallon gas and 4% unemployment and inflation, in Europe it’s equivalent to $7.00, 3.3% inflation and almost 6% unemployment, and America’s statistics will improve faster than Europe’s (or anybody else’s). America is well-ahead in the race to Artificial Intelligence, space exploration, and energy production, areas likely to be key sources of economic dynamism for decades to come.

But we’re so divided, and the country is about to fall into fascism! I’ve ranted enough in the past about the silliness of the fascism argument, so I’ll focus on the division part. We’ve always been so divided. Adams vs. Jefferson beats Trump vs Clinton by a landslide. The 2020 election (which was not fraudulent) has nothing on the 1876 election, which indeed was hashed out in a smoke-filled room full of trade-offs which would make Tammany Hall blush! Everybody knows that the country survived–barely–the great divide over slavery and the resulting civil war. There’s a new book, Been There, Done That, by Professor Greg Jackson (he of “History That Doesn’t Suck” podcast fame). In it, he recounts the story of partisan divides in the War of 1812.

Now most Americans know little about this conflict, other than that the Americans failed to capture Canada, the British burned the White House and General Andrew Jackson won the battle of New Orleans (days after the war had been settled by a treaty in Ghent). But at the time, it was an issue of white-hot partisan hatred. A Federalist (anti-administration) newspaper in Baltimore published a strong denunciation of Republican* President Madison’s war, and a partisan (Republican) mob attacked the building, tearing it down and destroying the presses. The publisher relocated and continued to criticize the war, resulting in another mob identifying its new location and surrounding the building with newspaper employees and supporters trapped inside. The head of the local militia, Major William Barney, was himself a Republican and a candidate for local office, but he stood athwart the Republican mob and refused to let them attack the building. He literally stepped in front of a cannon that had a burning fuse and dared the mob to kill him! It worked, and he negotiated for the men in the building to be transferred to a local prison for protective custody.

Alas, the mob later re-grouped when Major Barney was gone, attacked the prison, took the Federalist supporters and tortured and killed them. Among those attacked were General James Lingan, a Revolutionary war veteran and friend of George Washington, and famous General “Light Horse” Harry Lee, also of Revolutionary war fame. The former was tortured and beaten to death despite reminding the mob of his service; the latter suffered brain and other injuries from which he never recovered. No one was ever held accountable for the violence, as the local population was sympathetic to the Republican position on the war.

We’re nowhere near that level of vitriol today, but as Jackson reminds us, we only need act as we claim to be: honest, law-abiding, and peaceful to restore balance to the partisan environment. I have no doubt we will do so. We all know how the other version of the story ends: each side finding new lows to explore, more falsehoods, more violence, civil war.

So on this fourth of July, I encourage you to celebrate all that America is: warts and all. The young Sam, not yet really an uncle, is impulsive and insecure, but full of promise. He has made tragic mistakes in his young life, but overcome them. He needs your support if he’s going to make it. Happy 4th of July!

Image generated by AI.

*For those wondering, the Republican party mentioned here are the Democratic-Republicans, who later shortened their name to just the Democratic party. I wouldn’t want anyone to think only Republicans are capable of violence such as happened on January 6th.

Welcome to the Party

Old friends and long-time readers know I really enjoy this Bruce Willis/Die Hard meme:

It captures that moment when people suddenly find themselves involved in things they never imagined being a part of. Today, let’s welcome the Democrats of Maine to the party, and of course, their new Senate candidate, Graham Platner!

First off, let’s brush aside the silly objections. This may seem obvious to experienced adults, but no, Mr. Planter should not be disqualified from running for office because of things he posted on Reddit (or other social media). I (like many of my college friends) thank God every day that my young adult exploits were NOT captured for a global audience, nor my every inane utterance immortalized by “the internets.” Perhaps comments about rape victims bearing some responsibility, calling FOR political violence, or using the words r*tard or gay as slurs may give some voters pause, but the candidate takes responsibility and apologizes for things he said “during a dark time” in his life, while suffering from PTSD. End of story.

Nor should anyone be overly concerned about the Totenkopf (“Death’s Head”) tattoo he once had on his chest. Does anybody think Graham is a Maine Nazi? Really? Like many a Marine before him, he got (more than) a little drunk and got a tat he thought looked “badass.” If I thought for a second he supported National Socialism, that would be different. I don’t, because he doesn’t.

What about his more recent infidelity? In this day and age–that being the age of Trump–it’s hard to argue infidelity is disqualifying, even if recent. His wife defends him, and suggests they’re in counseling. Sounds like they are addressing the issue, so what’s your complaint?

Maybe it’s the allegations of boorish or perhaps physically aggressive behavior towards women? These are contested, and while they suggest a not very healthy view of the opposite sex, again, is that even a thing anymore? Now we can lay the #BelieveAllWomen movement to rest once and for all, as #Only BelieveWhenItsPoliticallyConvenient just doesn’t work, does it?

There are many who criticize candidate Platner’s working-man credentials. Yes, he is a member of what passes for royalty in Maine, as his grandfather was and his parents still are, frankly, rich. He went to several exclusive boarding schools, the least expensive of which cost over $10,000 a year. His Dad did indeed “buy” him a house with a cash loan of unspecified terms. His Mom bought him the company (literally an oyster boat) he now runs, and her restaurant is the sole purchaser of his oyster take. He and his wife live off his tax-free, full military disability retirement (currently US $48,000 annually). While he’s in no danger of becoming homeless, he is also not personally wealthy.

He deserves credit for honorably serving his country in war, and suffering PTSD as a result. It would help his case measurably if more of his close war-time Marines came forward to vouch for him, but perhaps that is planned for the campaign. He has undeniable charisma: when he speaks on the stump about the system being rigged against the average citizen, you can see the crowd warming to him. His stated policy positions, while few, are sure to excite the progressive left: Medicare for all, dropping support for Israel, higher taxes on the rich, citizenship for illegal/undocumented aliens. But his personae cracks all the liberal shibboleths: a gravelly-voiced, profane guy with a barrel chest and huge biceps, swearing when necessary and comfortably politically incorrect.

As you can see, Graham Platner has his faults, as any candidate does. So what makes his candidacy so alarming? Democrats respond to all of his questionable traits with a single word: Trump. It’s almost like Platner is running against Trump, not Senator Susan Collins. But he’s not. He’s running against one of the most decent, hard-working, honest Senators in American history. I had the honor of briefly working with Senator Collins when planning an event when I was in the Executive Branch. A mutual acquaintance told me to give her a call, and gave me a number. I called–expecting to get a staffer–but the Senator’s unmistakable voice came over the line instead! She was gracious and helpful and down-to-earth . . . and not just in the political way some can summon, as I was clearly in no position to vote for her or help her. She was, and is, the genuine article.

While Democrats once hailed her as the type of moderate who might limit the damage of the Trump era, her vote to approve Trump’s nomination of Brett Kavanaugh led directly to the repeal of Roe vs Wade (which she regrets). Little mentioned is the fact she has voted for all of President Obama’s and Biden’s Supreme Court nominees, too, and against Trump’s nomination of Amy Coney Barrett (on procedural grounds). Moderates are valued only moderately, I suppose. Now Collins’ Senate seat is hot, in order to “regain” the Senate for the Democratic party. For what? Will a one- or two-seat Democratic majority have a major influence on Trump’s final two years, when he won’t be impeached and seems intent on ignoring the Congress in toto?

So the Democratic Party has decided that President Trump has reset the bar on politics, morally and ethically. As long as a candidate is not much worse than Trump’s predations, he or she is acceptable. I have long argued that the way to restore honor, to embrace decency, to maintain a shred of dignity is to continue to insist on those standards, not lower them in order to win. It bears repeating: a moral standard is not lost when it is first broken; it is lost when it is at last abandoned. Our laws against murder still stand despite being violated daily. But once we begin to say, “well, it’s not really murder if . . . ” or “someone else did it first” that morality is truly lost.

The people of Maine have a democratic choice. On one hand, they have a proven commodity who made (in some voters’ minds) a bad choice, and one she has admitted to. On the other hand, they have a political novice with a life-long history of bad choices, some very recently. And he hasn’t admitted to them. He denies knowing about the Totenkopf tattoo, despite being a “history buff” whose former date said she learned about it from him. He has never explained why he chose the “dating” site called Kik, which is known as a hang-out for grown men seeking teenage girls (there is no evidence he did so) when there are other, more popular sites for adultery. And when he posted a towel-only clad selfie on that site, he strategically held his cell phone to block the tattoo, why? He said he got his home due to the VA loan program, but he has never taken a VA loan, because his dad loaned him the money. Most of these issues are trivial, until you consider what a serial liar might say in the same circumstances.

I don’t blame Graham Platner for trying. I don’t even blame the Democratic Party for wanting to win the Senate. I do blame anyone who suggests the way to bring American politics back to normal is to win-at-all-costs and accept lower standards. The only solace here is we no longer have to listen to the hypocrisy. The GOP was once the party of family values, but they surrendered that position to win. Now the Democrats have done the same. Welcome to the party!

Review: Magnifica Humanitas

The Holy Father Pope Leo XIV just published his first encyclical, entitled Magnificent Humanity (in Latin, above). It’s a long read, coming in at 42,000 words, so here’s a few things I’ve gleaned from my initial study of the document.

It is worth noting the provenance of both the Pope’s choice of Leo as his Papal name, and the subject of this encyclical. Robert Francis Prevost has confirmed he chose the name Leo in part to recall the last Pope so-named, Leo XIII. That Pope published a very important encyclical entitled Rerum Novarum (“On New Things”) in 1891. That document decried the atheistic, inhumane end-states of socialism, communism, and laissez-faire capitalism. It demanded a living wage for the working class, humane working conditions, and support for families, while decrying all forms of exploitation. For those wondering what effects a Papal encyclical can have, the modern concerns for the working class can largely be tied back to his authoritative document.

In his encyclical, Leo XIV consciously cites his predecessor’s work, and calls out the technological challenges facing humanity today, much as the industrial revolution challenged the earlier world. To illustrate the challenge, Leo offers twin biblical analogies: the tower of Babel and the restoration of Jerusalem. In the first circumstance, men chose to honor themselves and become self-sufficient, masters of their own destiny, resulting in division and disorder. In the second, the Jews returning to the ruins of Jerusalem worked together to jointly rebuild their city in a display of common good. Technology is only a tool, to be used for good or evil: what type of future do we want to build with AI?

Pope Leo begins with a review of Catholic Social Doctrine from Rerum Novarum to the present. Those who see Catholicism as a set of cultural “don’ts” will find this part of the encyclical an eye-opening list of Popes, documents, and teachings that directly affect the lives of the common man and woman: the absolute necessity to freely associate (ie., unionize), to keep one’s earnings (private property), to care for those less fortunate, to be treated fairly and not simply as a consumer or producer, but as a human being. While the Church explicity rejects socialism or communism, it likewise counsels that unregulated markets or simple majoritarian democracy can produce their own evils.

From this review, the encyclical recalls five principles of Catholic Social Doctrine which must drive our approach to the AI technological challenge:

  • The common good, that is rules and actions which allow all to flourish
  • The universal destination of goods, to be shared by all
  • Subsidiarity, described as solving issues at the lowest, or most local, level first
  • Solidarity, or the responsibility for all to be involved
  • Social justice, allowing all to lead dignified lives.

Only after all this does the Pope begin to address how this well-developed set of doctrines apply to the artificial intelligence revolution.

“So-called artificial intelligences do not undergo experiences, do not possess a body, do not feel joy or pain, do not mature through relationships and do not know from within what love, work, friendship or responsibility mean. Nor do they have a moral conscience, since they do not judge good and evil, grasp the ultimate meaning of situations, or bear responsibility for consequences. They may imitate language, behavior and analytical skills, or even simulate empathy and understanding, but they do not understand what they produce, for they lack the affective, relational and spiritual perspective through which human beings grow in wisdom.” –Chapter III, Section 99

Pope Leo specifies that AI and the larger technological revolution must be harnessed for the good of mankind, not exploited for the few at the risk to the many. Here he highlights:

  • the search for truth in public life. Everyone must commit to the development of shared truth, since truth is the basis for community. Truth is neither relative nor personal, but a basis for communication and communion.
  • education in the digital environment. Youth must come to understand education is not a series of tests or qualifications to pass, but an extended period of hard work and experience leading to knowledge. Families, schools, and communities must work together to ensure the real education of our youth.
  • the transformation of work. Work is not a necessary evil, but a fundamental aspect of human life necessary for dignity. Charity to the less fortunate is a necessary but insufficient response; work is the path to maturity and dignity.
  • the fragility of families. The family is the first and foremost common good. Technology must not undermine the family or it will damage the social fabric of the community.
  • new forms of slavery. The digital age poses new challenges where technology is directly optimized to enslave its users, or the system itself demands slave-like conditions for the materials necessary for its maintenance.

“More gravely, the pervasive technocratic paradigm in which we are immersed, and that is amplified by the digital revolution and AI, threatens to normalize an anti-human vision. In that vision, the fullness of life is equated with having more, reducing weakness, eliminating uncertainty and exerting total control. When efficiency becomes the ultimate measure of value, human beings are tempted to see themselves as a project to be optimized rather than as persons called to relationship and communion.” –Chapter III, section 112

In the final section, the Pope turns to the issue of international relations in the AI era. He criticizes the return of “political realism” in the notion that power, not charity, is the ultimate determinant between peoples and states. He insists human beings must not pass along the immense power of life-or-death decisions to autonomous systems. In a seemingly throw-away line that has received much attention, he states, “Today, more than ever, without prejudice to the right to self-defense in the strictest sense, it is important to reaffirm that the ‘just war’ theory, which has all too often been used to justify any kind of war, is now outdated.” Leo is not rejecting the Just War theory first promulgated by Saint Augustine; Leo is an Augustinian, for Heaven’s sake. He is decrying the manipulation of Just War doctrine to provide a justification for any war. To further the point, he just put Just War theory on the table as a discussion topic at an extraordinary consistory of the College of Cardinals later this month, so stay tuned!

This encyclical does not contain specific policy proposals for the topics it covers. Those proposals are rightfully the realm of our elected representatives; in Catholic terms, they are prudential, not theological issues. Rather, it introduces the principals all should invoke in developing our policies and rules for artificial intelligence. Like Rerum Novarum so many years ago, it is clear-eyed look at the promises and dangers of technology in a rapidly changing global environment.

Let’s pray Magnifica Humanitas has as great and lasting effect as its predecessor.

Cranbrook, Kent

How to describe the boxed area of Southeast England, with London and the Thames on the north and the sea on the other sides? It’s often referred to as the garden of England, but here’s a more emblematic analogy: The Shire. Yes, from J.R.R. Tolkein’s tale of hobbits, dwarves, elves and others. The hobbits live in The Shire, a bucolic farmland of hard-working, fun-loving little people with hearts of gold, endless appetites, and steel spines. The Shire represents a pre-industrial idyll of England, standing athwart the grime and poverty of the coming industrial revolution.

St. Dunstan’s Anglican Church

Cranbrook is a small town that fancies itself the capital of the Weald, an Old English term referring to this vast woodland area. It’s a teeny capital: just a few streets, only one real intersection, not even a stop sign, less a traffic light. We’re staying on High Street (American translation: Main Street), about a block from the all the action, that is, the intersection. There is a fine collection of pubs and restaurants, all terribly quaint, a grocery co-op immediately behind the house, and walking trails and nature reserves galore.

That’s all, folks!

First Alicante, then Madrid, then London, now (wait for it) . . . Cranbrook? One of these things is not like the others, as they used to sing on Sesame Street. What are we doing here? Last year, I promised my dear wife we would get a dog sometime during the year. As the year wore on, and we looked at our travel plans (including the near-future ones), Judy came to the conclusion we simply couldn’t get a dog right now. We’re traveling a lot, because we still can, but soon a day will come when we can’t (travel, that is). So she forwent her immediate dog fancy.

In exchange, she countered with a novel idea: perhaps we could rent a dog. Not literally, but figuratively. We joined an international house-sitting website which matches people wiling to take care of other’s pets in exchange for staying in the owner’s home, free. No money exchanges hands, but the owner gets a vacation free of worry about their pet and the pet-sitter gets to “live in” rather than just visit a new place. I readily agreed, as long as we could fit it into our existing plans.

Judy started applying for “sits” in the UK in June, as we had plans for Alicante already set, and we just held off on scheduling our return flight, which we were using points to fly on Virgin Airways, Heathrow to Los Angeles. But we were planning months early, and many people don’t even post their requests until a few weeks out. We had no nibbles, and were going to go ahead and close out the idea, when we saw a sit in lovely rural Cranbrook, Kent. Not only that, it was two weeks long (longer than most, which are a week-to-ten days) and gave us just enough time to visit Madrid and London on the way from Alicante. Best of all, the dogs we would be sitting were Vizslas, the breed we owned for almost thirty years! This was a dog-fix extraordinare for Judy! We applied, were interviewed online, and finally got the sit, partly because we were so darn enthusiastic about just sitting the dogs. The owners were telling us all about the charm of the area (selling us), and we were “that’s nice, we just want to be with your dogs!”

Our “rental” Vizslas, demonstrating one of their two modes: indoor inactive
and here’s “active on the trail”

So here we are in the Shire with Toffee and Treacle! Treacle is thirteen years old, so she’s limited to shorter walks around the local nature reserve, or up the High Street to the Church and back. Toffee is only six, and she’s the type of dog, if you tied a treat on a string hanging from a stick in front of her snout, she could walk the Camino de Santiago, in a week. Probably need a few extra treats.

So many lovely trails to hike

Things are very quiet here during the week. We have adapted easily to the laid back pace, which revolves around the dogs’ eating and exercise schedule. On the weekend, things get pretty busy, as tourists and big city types abscond from London in search of the pretty English countryside, which is what the Weald offers in abundance. Better still, it’s bloom season, and everybody seems to have roses or other perennials adorning the outside of their cottages.

THE intersection

The heat wave which chased us from London moved on, and we moved out to cooler climes, so outside of a hot sun in the middle of the afternoon, the climate is very comfortable. We have the windows full open all night, which sometimes necessitates a duvet on the bed. Remember, I told you the English haven’t discovered air conditioning yet! Perhaps with global warming this newfangled technology will become a local fashion.

Inside the pub at The George for our 44th anniversary brunch

Weekends require a longer walk with Toffee, who seems to know her way around the local forests quite well. I was navigating using AllTrails, an app I have found most useful for such things while traveling, while Toffee kept stopping at various crossings, indicating which way I should go. She may be a local, but I had GPS. Between us, we navigated several miles of dense woodland and returned safely.

Things we noticed during this Spain & England visit? England is way more expensive. I expected it in London, but even out here in the countryside, groceries, pints at the pub, and restaurant meals are $$$$. I spent £33 on a glorified chicken sandwich and fries the other day at a local pub, and yes, that’s almost US $45! The Tube in London is still cheap, there are good free museums, and you can shop around and find less expensive meals, but England in general is much more expensive than Spain, or even the US.

You have to love the English trail system. Every forest, every reserve, and even the farmlands have public rights-of-way that allow you to stay off the roads and wander from town to town. Which is a good thing, because the local roads are narrow, people drive fast, and they always seem to be on the wrong side (sorry, couldn’t resist. It’s my response to being told I ‘had an American accent.’). The trails themselves vary between trodden dirt paths in the forest to paved and maintained paths in some meadows. Whatever their condition, they are a true delight and a national resource one must enjoy when out and about.

The Spanish appeared younger, happier and healthier than the English we met. It’s a gross generalization (is there any other kind?) but an accurate one for our experiences this trip. Perhaps it’s just an artifact of where we visited and stayed, but maybe not. Almost nobody engaged us in political discussions, with the exception of our dog-sit host: the husband and I had a long talk about the Trump phenomenon and Sir Keir’s problems at #10 Downing Street, and it was all quite pleasant. I have always found Europeans to be quite happy to talk about their own politics when they meet an American who shows interest. Certainly everybody we met was welcoming.

As we walked the dogs in the nature reserve trail the other day, Judy said she was “ready to go home” and I agree. The cruise, the time in Spain, Madrid & London, and the Shire have each been very enjoyable, but we’re ready to get back to Mexico, where the locals assure me the rainy season just started with a big thunderstorm!

London calling

You may have heard rumors of travel nightmares in Europe because of the roll out of the EU’s new Entry/Exit System (EES). It’s a biometric system designed to replace stamping passports, so it is a form of progress, if done right. Sadly, this is the EU, so it’s not been done right. Right would be capturing your fingerprints and face scan either online or once at an entry point, then speeding you through automated gates every time hence. Instead, the EU is sending all non-Schengen passengers through the same entry point, which is causing long delays, so long, that passengers are missing their flights, whether they had previously enrolled or not.

The title? Just an excuse to link to The Clash

Forewarned, we arrived at Madrid Barajas airport four hours early for our early evening flight to London Heathrow. First problem, British Airways wouldn’t allow us to check our bag until less than three hours before the flight. Unable to check our bag, we couldn’t head through security, let alone customs and immigration. At the designated time we dropped off the bag and quickly passed through the security lines into the secure area. Thinking we were in the clear, since we were at departure gates, we started looking for a lounge to while away the time, when it occurred to me (perhaps those years working the US DHS), “we went through security, but not customs and immigration!” How?

Barajas international airport segregates non-Schengen passengers at a remote terminal, and by remote, I mean a five-minute, high-speed rail-line remote! We arrived at that terminal to find the promised chaos: a massive number of automated checkpoints, only a few people explaining in Spanish, and a mad mix of foreigners trying and being turned away. Luckily, we had enrolled in the EES when we disembarked our transatlantic cruise, so we made our way to an empty kiosk, read in our passports and got our faces confirmed, and moved on. But very many other people were left cycling through different kiosks, unsure of what was happening.

We found an excellent lounge to kill the extra time, and just as things started looking up, British Airways snatched defeat from the jaws of victory. First a forty-five minute take-off delay, then another forty-five minutes after we boarded, because they couldn’t properly load a pallet of non-luggage cargo. Now our early evening arrival was a mid-evening arrival. Okay, at least the sub-two hour flight to Heathrow was uneventful, until the pilot aborted the landing at one hundred meters altitude. For those unfamiliar, that’s about the height of the upper deck at your local stadium. Seems he came in too fast, and this being Heathrow, we were now at the back of the landing queue, costing another thirty minutes. And even then, with a different runway, we made a very fast and hard landing. Safe still beats late, though. We taxied to an empty area and our entire Boeing 777 disembarked to . . . busses. A large, international arrival at a major European hub, on the national airline, and . . . busses? Hmmmm.

The UK created its own new pre-arrival entry system last year, and we enrolled, so we whisked through immigration, but once again many Americans (and others) were caught up in “do you have an ETA?” discussions. Of course our bag was nearly last off the plane, so we dashed to the Heathrow Express and arrived at Paddington station fifteen minutes later, around eleven pm.

We have been visiting London and staying near Paddington for decades. There are several small neighborhoods there where rows of former townhouses have been repurposed into boutique hotels, at about half the going rate for American-style hotels in London. You’ll get a quirky room (our bathroom is up several stairs), no air conditioning, and a full English breakie. And walkable to Paddington, which connects everywhere in London.

Every door a hotel

You may have rushed past that “no air conditioning” comment. It’s not common in London, and since our time in sunny Spain was a little cooler than anticipated, we were more worried about layers when we emerged from the Tube. Alas, a heat dome settled over the area just in time for our arrival, including the warmest May temperature on record (35 Celsius, 95 Fahrenheit). And London has long records. We had to recall all our travel survival tips, remembering the joy of frequent cold showers, pub stops, and visiting a (outrageously expensive at twenty English pounds-per-person) little cinema for air conditioning (Hint: The Sheep Detectives is great fun!). We made it through the first day of the heat wave that way, but the inability to get any airflow or cooling at night sent me back to find another hotel in the same area, this time with a/c.

And we were lucky, since we have already seen and done all the tourist must-sees/dos. We narrowed our agenda down to evening hours, or added in all those breaks and stops. For example, we took in an evening performance of a new Sherlock! production at the Regents Park open air theater, which would have been dreadful for the matinee.

We planned a picnic in Kensington Gardens, but instead of building it ourselves, we simply strolled into a Marks & Spencer and picked up all the necessaries in a few well-organized minutes. Pro-tip: we always travel with small, packable rain coats, which make an expedient picnic blanket. Add in a great public park with much shade, and Bob’s your uncle!

Thank you, Your Highness.

Sunday we trekked to Marylebone to visit Saint James Catholic church at Spanish Place, a Gothic structure with a lot of history. The church survived because it was bequeathed to the Spanish government and gained immunity from the back-and-forth persecutions of the English Reformation. We just enjoyed hearing a Mass in English for a change.

A short walk away we reserved our first Sunday Roast at a pub called The Prince Regent. It’s an English tradition to serve roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, roast vegetables, and a sticky toffee pudding for Sunday brunch. Somehow we had heretofore missed out on it, and it was delicious.

We arranged mid-morning tickets to the special exhibition of works by Francisco de Zurbarán at the National Gallery. Having seen some of the Spanish master’s work at the Prado, it was great to find a more complete collection spanning all his work in London.

This final painting is quite unique: it features a pensive Virgin Mary looking on at Jesus as a young man who has cut his finger on a crown of thorns he wove. Jesus seems more curious than pained, but Mary clearly suffers a premonition.

Right next door, we had lunch in the crypt cafe under St. Martins-in-the-fields, a favorite of ours whenever we’re in London. There’s something a touch unsettling at the floor tombstones, but a memento mori is always a good thing.

Most of this trip was replaying favorites from past visits: the picnic, a walk along the “little Venice” canals behind Paddington station, riding the Tube, going to the open air theater, pub visits, the National Gallery, St. Martin’s. We got a roast (first time), fish and chips, and very good Lebanese food. We suffered for my (not air-conditioned) sins. We’ve not grown tired of London yet, as Samuel Johnson observed, for there’s still more to see and do.

Admiral Nelson still stands his watch toward the Elizabeth tower, which contains Big Ben (but you already knew Big Ben was the bell, not the clock)

Madrid, Villa y Corte

We’ve transited through Madrid before, but never stayed, so this trip we gave ourselves a little stopover of four days/three nights to hit some of the high points. Madrid, the capital of Spain, is literally the central city. The evidence for settlement here goes back to the Celts, who built a fort near a ford here in the Fifth Century BCE. At least one of the prominent theories for the derivation of Madrid is from the Celtic word for ford. Madrileños (people from Madrid) prefer the nickname gatos (yes, cats) because they see themselves as stylish and nocturnal: I can confirm both allegations.

Just another cafe vista in Madrid!

Madrid would be just another small fort-city on the Spanish meseta (plain) if not for Phillip II, who chose it as the royal seat in 1561, precisely because it was in the geographic middle of the peninsula. Oh, that and it was surrounded by forests, which satisfied his passion for hunting. And to please his wife, Elisabeth, who hated the cramped, cold, fortified city of Toledo and longed for anywhere else (reverse Spanish Green Acres?). Phillip’s choice turned the sleepy village into the seat of the great Spanish Hapsburg empire, and eventually the world-class city it is today, although its long-standing nickname remains Villa y Corte, or “town & court.”

That’s him, and the horse he rode in on

The Plaza Mayor is the central square of Madrid, lined with cafes but free of any central shade, lest you get close to the statue of Felipe III. We stayed just around the corner, and the Plaza was a pleasant place to stroll through or take in an aperol spritz and watch everybody else strolling by. The cafes are a mix of the good, bad, and ugly (Pizza Hut?), so do your homework or else walk a few blocks away where numerous excellent restaurants await.

We ate at two centenarios, restaurants that have been operating as such for at least one-hundred years. The first was Sobrino de Botín, which proudly displays its Guinness world record as the oldest continuously-operating restaurant (since 1725). And the legend holds that their oven has been continuously burning for 300 years. We staked out the opening for lunch and scored one of the few walk-in, outdoor tables. Botín’s pride and joy is cochinillo asado, or roast suckling pig. We enjoyed the prix fixe menu, but were not wowed by the piggys. But that chef was certainly moving them from shelf to plate!

The other was Restaurante Los Galayos, which impressed us in every way. Here we tried another must-eat local dish named Cocido Madrileño. This is a hearty stew served in multiple stages. All the ingredients are cooked together, but then the meat and vegetables are removed from the broth. Thin, angel-hair like pasta is added back in, and the broth is served as a first course. Then the pot with the sausages, chicken, pork, carrots, potatoes, and artichokes arrives, which you place back into your remaining broth. Add in a pitcher of tinto verano (a wine and soda mix popular among locals; they leave the sangria for the tourists) and you have a quintessential Madrid lunch feast.

Stuffed doesn’t begin to describe the aftermath

We also had a delightful tapas lunch in the Mercado de San Miguel, a fashionable “gastro” experience that–while admittedly touristy–was nonetheless tasty. Get here early (before two in the afternoon) and take turns holding down a place at the cafe benches while munching on everything from seafood tapas to jamón ibérico to sushi to meatballs to pastries.

Of course you must visit the Prado, Madrid’s world-beating art museum. Sorry if I have no pictures to share, as they have a “no photos” policy. But here are some tips: get a reserved, timed ticket. You don’t want to join the throngs standing in the hot sun to get in. But when you go online to get that ticket, skip the “sponsored results” section on Google and make sure you are on the actual Prado website (here it is) and not a fake site like this one. Or you’ll end up paying twice, or arguing endlessly with your credit card company.* You can buy the audio guide, but don’t use its built-in tour, which is haphazard at best. Plan what you want to see beforehand and make your own way, stopping to marvel at the other surprises along the way. Finally, pay no attention to any of the helpful information signs painted on the walls. Apparently they reorganized some time ago but left the old signs up, which will send you on an endless doom-loop in search of a bathroom (by the way, aseo, not baño, in España).

Entrance to the royal palace

The Palacio Real is the Spanish royal family’s official residence, and the largest royal palace in Europe. It is a magnificent baroque structure, full of the art and the wealthy trappings one would ascribe to Spain at the peak of its worldly power in the 17th century. A self-guided tour is sufficient, even if the audio guide is somewhat erratic in its presentation. Be sure not to miss the royal armory, recently reopened, for an extensive review of medieval weapons and armor.

Next to the royal palace is, yes, another (bloody) church (abc). What’s different about this Cathedral is it’s fairly new, only being completed in 1993. Formally named the Cathedral of Saint Mary the Royal of the Almudena, it was started in 1883 but left uncompleted by the Spanish Civil War, and only finished much later, after the fall of the Franco dictatorship. It’s a neo-Gothic structure, with baroque additions, but much of the art work is modern. Take a look:

From modern to ancient: a short walk from the royal palace through the parks surrounding it rewards you with an incongruous site: the ancient Egyptian Temple of Debod. Seems when Egypt was building the Aswan High dam, several ancient temple complexes were scheduled to be flooded. Spain donated to save the temples, and Egypt rewarded them by deconstructing one and moving it to Spain. It now sits in a park with an overlook of the parklands of the royal estate, Madrid’s suburbs, and sunset every evening.

We know we only scratched the surface of Madrid’s offerings. There’s shopping on the Gran Via, matches for Real Madrid, and so much more art, architecture, and culture. We’ll certainly look to visit again, as it is a convenient hub for travel in Spain. One final note: even in May, the daytime sun was quickly pushing the “unbearable” level, so hats, sunscreen, and extra hydration are a must. Or just plain your visit cafe-to-cafe, alternating between cañas (small beers) and Aquarius electrolyte water!

* Yes, I know better. It turns out, I finally figured out how I was duped. I had long ago gone to the fake website, realized it and backed out. When the day came to buy my tickets, Google helpfully highlighted the result because I had been there before, so I mistook it for the real website. Not helpful, but a learning experience.