Remember when Apollo 13 went out of radio contact with Houston as they circled the moon during their remarkable adventure? We were sort of “out there” beyond WiFi and even phone service the last few days. And we had a few memorable moments.
In Santo Domingo de la Calzada, I wanted to visit the Cathedral where the saint is buried. I followed the signs to the entrance, but when I got there, it was the entrance to a museum. I asked the gatekeeper if I could go in to pray. Only for Mass, later, he told me. What if I just want to pray now? I asked. Three Euros for the museum, he said. Hmmm, “isn’t this how Martin Luther got started”, I wondered. We came back for Mass that night, and the Cathedral was packed, not with pilgrims, but with locals! Seems a local man named Antonio had died, and we were at his funeral mass. We were welcomed nonetheless. He had an impressive show of flowers, family, and friends.
Later that night, we stayed at the parrochial albergue. Our room had about twenty older adults, so I figured it might be loud snoring-wise, but certainly boring. Until about 2:00 am, when one Italian man started shouting. It started as just loud talking and banging about with his gear. As more of the pilgrims began to “shush” him, he got louder and nastier, although that was just by tone, as I don’t speak Italian. Finally I heard someone ask in Spanish what time it was, and the Italian said something like two-forty, turned ON the overhead lights, and stomped out of the room. I guess we’ll never know what ticked him off!
Last night we had a private albergue in a tiny town called Villamayor. It was so cold inside when we arrived in the afternoon, we sat outside in our coats and took a nap, as we had full sun for the first time in a week. Later the hospitalera turned on the heat, but then she turned it off again at night. At least we had ample hot water in the showers.
We are in Villifranca today, headed for Burgos tomorrow. Today marks the end of two full weeks on the camino. The path has become smoother and much less hilly. The weather remains poor: overcast, windy, with highs of 50 degrees, at best. It is cold enough to chill you without a jacket, but too warm and sweaty with one. After a day or so in Burgos, we will enter the Meseta, where perhaps some sun and warmth await.
