Samos

We spent a night in a tiny little town called Biduedo at a charming inn named Casa Xato. It was very much like staying at someone’s house, as we were the only guests and were treated so well. The owner even started a fire for us: I have never seen anybody light a fireplace with a propane tank and a blowtorch, but it works really well! We asked her when was dinner, and she said “when do you want it?” We asked what was for dinner, and she said “what do you want?” We just ordered a thick local soup, bread, and wine, but she insisted on also serving us a meat tart very famous in Galicia. Like I said, we were family.

While the weather remained high 40s and overcast, our walk today was almost all downhill and along a river. The valley is secluded, safe from the winds, but damp. It looked like if you sat down for a moment, the moss would start growing up your leg. Cool, bordering on cold, but now we are pretty used to it. We even found an old rock wall to use to sit and rest on.

When we crested the final hill, we could see the Monastery at Samos. This has been a place of reverent worship continuously since the 6th century. The monks took the rule of St. Benedict (Ora et labora, or prayer and work) in the 9th century, and still practice it to this day. The monastery is not technically on the Camino, on an optional side route, but has been associated with pilgrimage since the initial discovery of St. James’ remains.

As is our routine, we arrived in the early afternoon, got cleaned up and changed, arranged for laundry, took a nap, then went sightseeing and had an early dinner. The best part of today was attending the evening Mass.

I am going to miss pilgrim menus and meals!