Month: June 2018

Well, we made it. The pilgrimage ended much like it began, in pouring rain, thick fog, and about 50 degrees. There was very little jubilation in the square in front of the cathedral as the drenched pilgrims huddled under anything to get out of the rain.

As we appoached Santiago, we passed all the usual sights without seeing any of them. I know we went past the airport runway because I heard the jets landing. I saw the sign for Mont Gozo, the hill of joy where one can first see the spires of the cathedral, except no joy today, just fog. The good news was the terrible weather kept the arriving pilgrim numbers down, and we only had a 90 minute wait to get our Compostela.

We had heard about the strict scrutiny the volunteers sometimes enforce: where did you start, why is this place stamp missing, how did you get from here to there. We had none of that, which apparently is only for those who start in Sarria or ask for a distancia which elaborates exactly how far you walked. We just got the gratis Compostela provided by the Cathedral. It took all of 4 minutes to fill out the form and received the printed certificate.

I want to thank everyone who followed along on this adventure, especially those who prayed us forward, because Lord knows we needed it. I will have some more about the Cathedral and Santiago tomorrow, then a quick recap of thoughts which occured to me along the way, and finally a longer bit of advice for aspiring pilgrims. And we still have Fatima and Lisbon to visit!

I’ll skip the weather report, as you already know it. Every morning, we watch the Spanish news and morning show in a bar or cafe as we have breakfast: the weatherman always shows a map of the peninsula covered with clouds and rain, then he complains about the cold temperatures. I could be a Spanish TV weatherman!

We only did 16 kilometers yesterday, and got into our pensíon in Arzua just in time to watch the town’s Corpus Christi procession go by our window. Turns out this Catholic feast is the town’s special feast day, so most everything was closed for the festivities which included a canon and a fiesta in the town square. Enjoy the video:

 

We went to the Pilgrim’s mass at the local church, then out to a restaurant called Casa Nené, where we lucked into the last reservation, as they have only 20 seats. Turns out this wasn’t your typical pilgrim stop. We had English speaking waiters and a real menu with small plates for sharing: lobster and cheese toasts, grilled fresh vegetables, locally-made cheese sticks and a nice bottle of local wine. It was a great change of pace.

Today was our penultimate walk, and the Camino decided to go full circle and end as we began: all day thundershowers. We completed half the remaining distance (20 kilometers), so God-willing we will be in Santiago tomorrow around lunch. We may have to swim the final few kilometers, but at this point we’re ready for it. We are holed up in our albergue, drying our clothes on the radiator, eating our emergency rations (don’t need them anymore), and taking naps.

Hasta mañana!

 

Yesterday was a long walk, 25 kilometers (about 15 miles) from Portomarín to Palas de Reí. We had the full range of weather, starting with cold and overcast, a little rain while we ate lunch (thank you, Lord), and eventually ending with mottled sunshine. We took some nifty shortcuts along roads, owing to a hidden treasure I found back at Samos.

Y’all know how I have been complaining about the “maps” in my guidebook. When we finished dinner next to the monastery in Samos, as the waiter bussed the table, I noticed the tabletop was…a 1:50,000 map of the Camino going forward! This was a military-grade map, and I was like a child at Christmas, but how to capture this extraordinary find? Judy reminded me to take a digital picture, and now I had a real map to use as needed.

So now when I face an evening’s planning session, I go to the enlarged digital photo. Yesterday, the guidebook had us walking downhill to a trail which then went back up over the crest of a large hill. I checked my map, and yes, the road we were about to cross went right around that same hill and rejoined the Camino on the other side.

While I was writing this post, I saw someone on Facebook calling out pilgrims who don’t carry everything, or take shortcuts or rest days. It was a classic “I’m a real man and you’re not” post.  I could not resist responding, mentioning heat, light, fabrics and medicine as things you might want to consider avoiding if you think you’re a real pilgrim. I guarantee you the medieval pilgrims went around a hill if they could, among other things they did to lessen the hardship.

We also passed some 3rd century BCE ruins along the way, some of the best preserved in the Iberian peninsula. They don’t even have explanatory boards up yet, bit were still quite remarkable.

Today was much shorter (15 kilometers), and we are only 53 kilometers from Santiago. The morning was as gray as ever, but the path was soft and smooth, and the hills and valleys very manageable.

We even spread out my poncho on a grassy field and took a nap: something I imagined us doing all the time if the weather had cooperated. Pilgrims were walking past us taking pictures: we’ll have to see if we show up on social media.

In the early afternoon, a giant glowing orb appeared in the sky. It seemed friendly enough, provided some heat, and was around most of the rest of the day. Anybody else see it?

We are all checked in another great room in Pensíon Berenguela in Melide. At the local church, they were getting ready for the feast of Corpus Christi. Another short day tomorrow, then two long days to Santiago!