Just passed another Dia de Muertos here in Mexico. This year for the first time I saw some Mexican children in costumes headed around for Halloween! Instead of yelling “trick or treat” they shout “queremos Halloween” or “we want Halloween.” It just adds another element to the extensive list of Mexican fiesta activities.
Last year, we visited the local cemetery and checked out some katrinas. This year, Judy got a hankering for pan de muertos, a tasty bread prepared annually for the fiesta. The top is shaped to resembled bones (and a cross); the bread itself is lightly sweet, with a slight orangey aftertaste. She found it at Panadería Rojas, which seems to be the “go-to” bakery locally.
We also treated ourselves to a showing of the movie “Coco” on the malecon. If you haven’t seen this animated movie, do so! I don’t normally recommend Disney movies, and their attempts to depict other cultures have at times been disastrous (thinking of Mulan here). Disney spent three years researching Mexican traditions with respect to Dia de Muertos, and they got it just right. The movie has become an instant classic down here, and it’s a cute movie, to boot!
The setting for watching the film was amazing, with the lake stretching out behind the screen and the mountains rising behind the audience. Proceeds from the event went to support the Dia de Muertos parade the next day; we’ll save that event for next year’s fiesta.
Finally, we had another showing of Coco, this time in Spanish, at our language school (Olé México). It was great to practice our language skills (subtitles in English) and I finally made it through the movie without tearing up (that’s my story, and I’m sticking to it!). Afterwards, we learned about the Mexican custom of creating an ofrenda, or altar, to remember the dead. We even constructed one, with the pictures, memorabilia, food & drink, and marigold flowers (cempsuchil in español) which are omnipresent for this holiday.
I think the Mexican culture gets it right with respect to death. People here see it as inevitable, but nothing to fear. Children from an early age learn that it is part of the natural order, and the people’s faith in an afterlife helps immeasurably. I wouldn’t call it fatalistic, like Arab culture, but more realistic.
And I would be remiss if I missed an opportunity to tie Dia de Muertos with the Grateful Dead!