Travel tips en route

We made it successfully to Stockholm, Sweden where we are staying overnight. The Aeromexico flight from Guadalajara to Los Angeles went without any fuss. I wish I could say the same about the Norwegian Air Shuttle from LAX to Stockholm.

When we arrived at LAX, we changed terminals and got into a Catch-22. Norwegian does not check your bags until three hours before take off, so we could not check our bags or proceed to enter the terminal, beyond security. The Tom Bradley International terminal is very nice, but before security it is a service wasteland with few seats or restaurants. The bargain airlines it serves all have similar policies, so we found ourselves stuck in an old fashioned airport hub dump with several hundred of our closest friends for three hours.

When we finally checked bags and passed through security, our plane was three hours late for takeoff due to poor ground coordination. Luckily, we had premium seats which gave us access to the OneWorld lounge, so we waited and waited in relative comfort.

 The buffet,

and Judy (rolling her eyes) fresh back from the showers.

The open bar.

The indoor fire pit.

Travel tip #1: if you book Norwegian, do not try to make close connections. They have very cheap fares (some on our flight flew to Europe one way for under $200 USD), but they are notorious for delays.

Travel tip #2: if you book with Norwegian, know that the low cost fare means everything will be extra. No water, no checked bags, weight limited carry-ons. If you want better services, upgrade to their Premium, which is something closer to Business class at other airlines.

Travel tip#3: if you can, fly the new 787 Dreamliner for long haul trips. It uses more modern technology to fly faster, with a darker cabin, better humidity and air pressure, leading to a significantly better experience in whatever class you fly.

Our biggest worry was losing our backpacks. So far we are two-for-two.

Final Travel tip: if you ever need to travel with a backpack, many airlines won’t let you take them as carry-ons. Just buy an Ikea Cary sack for a few bucks! They are large enough to hold even a very large backpack, and they are easy to spot coming off the luggage-go-round.

More from our first official stop tomorrow.

 

 

Truckin’

We are leaving for our extended religious pilgrimage to Europe on Saturday: to say we are excited is an extreme understatement. Months of physical training, research, prayer and preparation can now be put to practical use. This week, we’re taking care of all the admin details surrounding an extended absence, getting final dental and doctor visits in, packing and re-packing, and then settling in for planes, trains, buses, automobiles, and–of course–walking.

Last Sunday our parish sent us off with a Pilgrim’s Blessing, an ancient rite of the Church which was very emotional for both Judy and me. We were called forward before the altar, promised to pray for our congregation while we are on the pilgrimage, and then the entire congregation called down God’s blessing on us for our safety, sanctity, and sanity (I may have made the last one up).

A recent commercial Stateside asks “Who glows?” Well, we are.

Our itinerary takes us on flights from Guadalajara to Los Angeles to Stockholm, with a overnight to account for time change. Next morning, off to Vilnius, Lithuania. I know it is not exactly on everybody’s bucket list, but I’ll explain why when we get there. After a day and a half there, we’ll take a bus to Warsaw and then a train to Krakow, Poland, where we’ll spend three days. From there it’s an early Sunday morning RyanAir flight to Lourdes, France, for a day and a half. Then some occasionally reliable French trains to Saint Jean Pied de Port, where we’ll begin the 800 kilometer (500 mile) walk to Santiago de Compostela, after a few days rest, on May 3rd. After arriving in Santiago (God willing) some thirty days (mas o meños) later, we’ll get a rental car and visit Muxia (a quiet pueblo on the Atlantic coast), travel down to Fatima, Portugal for a day or two, and then to Lisbon to start the flights home. The end of the trip is less exact: when you don’t know when you’ll be where, you need to leave the details to later.

Needless to say, my blog will be less about expat life and more about travel, which is (for us) an important aspect of expat life. In addition to all the usual fun of travel, we’ll be praying and offering thanks to God, so if you have a prayer request, share it with me via the comments function or private message, if you prefer.

Oh, and since I titled this Truckin’, let me end with an appropriate cut:

 

The rest of the story

Those who suffered through my last commentary (Everything you know is wrong III) learned about the US Republic,  but you probably left the blog wondering “what was that all about? Did Pat drink some bad tequila?”

The answer to the second question is “no” (because there is no bad tequila), but here’s the answer to the first question.

The fact that the US is a Republic based on a Constitution has two important implications: one about the document itself, the other about the people it serves.

Americans hold their Constitution in high regard. We are right to do so, as intelligent observers around the world have commented on its simplicity, its insight, and its longevity. But the document is not magical. It works not just because it was brilliantly designed, but because it was ideally matched to the culture and characteristics of the American people (circa 1791).

Freed America slaves who returned to Africa to establish the nation of Liberia borrowed large parts of the US Constitution to little success. The US Constitution begat similar efforts in 19th century Latin America, post-Great War Europe, and post-colonial Africa, again with mixed success. The US Constitution was a unique match of brilliant political theory and informed citizenship.

What was the indispensable characteristic of that citizenry? Here the founders were unanimous: virtue, or as we call it today, morality. Franklin, Jefferson, Madison, Patrick Henry, and George Washington wrote about it.  Samuel Adams said “Neither the wisest constitution nor the wisest laws will secure the liberty and happiness of a people whose manners are universally corrupt.” John Adams said, “Public virtue cannot exist in a nation without private virtue, and public virtue is the only foundation of republics.”  and added “Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other.”

And these are just the pull quotes. All the Founding Fathers wrote and spoke about how important the virtue and morality of the American people were. This is not to say the Founders or the citizens were saints. Those same Founders tolerated America’s original sin–slavery. The candidates and their supporters in the Presidential election of 1800 engaged in far more slander than anything any candidate said in 2016!

Rather, the comments about the virtue or morality of the American citizenry described their common understanding of right and wrong. While the United States had no established religion, its people broadly accepted a code of conduct based on Judeo-Christian values. Even the Founders, many of whom were Deists, held the same beliefs, as Deism was a Christian off-shoot (heresy is the technical term). This morality, these virtues, matched uniquely with the Republican government developed under the Constitution.

Back at the beginning of the Republic, the American people had a common conception of right and wrong, even if those same citizens were individually more or less virtuous. Today, our citizens are just as likely to have different levels of virtue, but there is no common understanding of how to measure right and wrong. Religious participation continues to dwindle, and many organized religions follow, rather than lead, public mores. Some argue religion has no right to a voice in American government: a point historically inaccurate and (frankly) bigoted. Nevertheless, I would concede that religion has mainly lost its voice, while no alternative voice has succeeded it.

Instead, we have replaced a shared public morality with an individualistic one. As Justice Anthony Kennedy put it in Planned Parenthood vs. Casey, “At the heart of liberty is the right to define one’s own concept of existence, of meaning, of the universe, and of the mystery of human life.” There is little room for me to compromise with you when you have the right to define the meaning of the universe.

All of which leads to my final point: many of the problems we as Americans identify today are actually only symptoms of the real problem: the lack of a common morality. Our Republic requires it. Arguments about policy are just about politics (the art of compromise), while arguments about morality are good versus evil, and compromise is immoral. You can see this play out in issue after issue today: gun control, abortion, free speech, police violence, marriage, welfare, etc.

This is not a call to return to the days of that  good, old-fashioned religion; a culture can never return to its past. This is more a caution. America has only once experienced a similar moral debate: slavery. The issue was fundamental to concepts ranging from individual freedom and human rights to property, states’ rights, and habeus corpus. It took a bloody civil war to address that issue, and another one-hundred years to finish the argument.

I trust I have made a case for why our Republic needs a shared morality. I wish I had an easy answer for how we regain one. I have not heard anything beyond some platitudes thus far. I am open to good ideas: I know I am praying on this already.

As Paul Harvey used to say, my friends, “and now you know the rest of the story.”

 

Everything you know is wrong (III)

The topic today is government, specifically, the type of government in the United States. If I asked you what form of government the United States has, what would you say?  A democracy? A constitutional democracy? A representative democracy? An oligarchy, run by big government elites? Anarchy (especially under the current administration)?

This is not an academic question: if you don’t know what type of government you have, you may be surprised when things happen that you thought could not–or should not–happen. I noticed this after the last Presidential election, when the popular vote did not track with the electoral outcome, and many commented that this should not be. I saw it again recently when the very vocal students marching for gun control were talking about making democracy work. You will often hear politicians and thought leaders referring to “our democracy.” I trust they are using a shorthand reference, but are they correct? What is our form of government?  As Warner Wolf used to say, “Let’s go to the videotape.”

Anybody remember him?

Okay, there is no videotape, but there is a historical record. But when asked what form of government the new Constitution established for these United States, Benjamin Franklin responded, “A Republic…if you can keep it.” The Founding Fathers had many negative things to say about democracy as a form of government: they saw it as majority rule, or the rule by factions, as they called it.  The Federalist Papers (especially Federalist #10) detail their concerns: They wanted a government “of the people,” but they distrusted the average “person.” So they built in several safeguards, limiting the franchise (i.e., the right to vote) creating the electoral college, bifurcating the legislature. While we can all agree some of their methods were morally suspect (e.g., denying women the right to vote), their intent was sound: people making the choice of our governmental representatives should be informed and properly disposed. The Founders thought it very important to use voting as a means to establish the representatives in our government, but they knew the masses could be impassioned and misled.

Here’s another hint: recall the beginning of the Pledge of Allegiance. “I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America, and to the Republic for which it stands…” Now the pledge has no authoritative standing, but it has been around since the late 19th century, and represented the common knowledge and wisdom of our culture.

Now, before I go any further, one must recall that the names political parties give themselves (today and historically) are not relevant within this discussion. In the Cold War, communist governments called themselves democratic socialist republics. In the United States, today’s Republican party was cobbled together out of the old Whig and Free Soil parties, and once gave birth to the Progressive party (in the early 20th century). Today’s Democratic party began as the anti-federalist Democratic-Republicans! As so much else in politics, you have to look past the labels. So forget about them, for the time being.

Every form of government has to have two things: a source of its legitimacy (hereafter source), and an authority for its actions. In a democracy, the source is the people, and the authority is the majority. If you further define a government as a representative democracy, the source remains the people, but the authority becomes some form of legislature. Communist governments also said the people were the source, but claimed the party was the authority.

Republics can choose different forms of source and authority. A Monarchy can be a republic that chooses God’s divine right as source and a King /Queen as authority (or perhaps vice versa). Our own republic claims the people as source, but establishes a constitution as the authority. How do we know this? Majorities of the U.S. population have frequently been told that what they wanted was not to be, according to the Constitution. Likewise, various governments at the federal and state level have been denied their policies for the same reason. Now, the astute reader will point out that a majority can amend the Constitution. True, but not just any majority: only by a two-thirds majority of both Houses of Congress and three-fourths of the States! As you can see, it is a most difficult proposition, and hardly represents a trump card for “the majority” over the constitution as authority.

Over time, democratic methods have become more and more important within the U.S. republic. Federal senators were originally appointed by the States, to be the voice of the state governments to Washington (in addition to being the curative to the passions of the more democratically-elected House of Representatives). Some states sent poor representatives, since they saw it as a chance to get rid of one of their worst, or because Washington was far away and less important.  In the early 20th century, this led to direct election of federal senators, a victory for democracy but a loss for the state governments, who to this day have no representative to the federal side.

Likewise, various states have experimented (as was intended by the Founders) with greater democracy. California has been at the forefront of this movement, especially with its ballot initiative process that permits simple majorities to enact amendments to the state constitution binding on the state government (recall Proposition 13, which famously tied the state government’s hands with respect to taxes).

Based on the evidence, it is clear the United States began as a republic.  It is fair to say it has changed, and continues to change, toward more democratic aspects and methods. It cannot be called a democracy, even in shorthand. Why does this matter (“now he asks, after I read all this!”)?

That must wait for a future post!

Observations from a hospital waiting room

Sorry for the dramatic title: nothing too serious to report. I was up at San Javier Hospital in Guadalajara to give blood, specifically platelets, for my friend undergoing chemo. Mexico is one of those places where if you need blood, you literally need to bring it with you by enlisting friends and family to come and give blood for you. Everyone knows how the system works, so everyone pitches in to help.

The rules for blood donation are as arbitrary in Mexico as anywhere. Back in the States, I and my entire family were prohibited from giving blood since we were stationed with the Army in Germany back in the 80’s: our beef supply back then came from the UK, which had a Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE, or Mad Cow disease, as you know it) outbreak. There is no test for BSE, so while there is next-to-no chance we have it, we were disqualified. Move to Mexico and voila, no problema. But they have rules for age (18-60), weight (>50 kilos), no meds, no alcohol (48  hours), fasting at least 5 but not more than 8 hours, last meal with no dairy or fat.  Think about meeting those requirements during an emergency need for blood!

I passed all the preliminary screens, but then my blood needed a serum test, which delayed me for another 5 hours, so I got an extended stay in the hospital waiting area, which in turn led to this observation.

The Mexican people have a very different approach to the societal need to gather when one of the family gets sick. The waiting room was a veritable fiesta of several families. They each staked out a section, setting up a specific place for the family to gather, talk and visit while they queued up for trips up to visit their loved ones. There wasn’t any crying or even a long face: it was more like several impromptu family reunions had suddenly taken place like some hospital waiting room flash mob.

The families weren’t loud, but there were many hugs and kisses and murmurs of recognition. Some showed up with food, which they passed along to the rest of the family. Several members had visitor’s badges hanging around their necks, and they went up to visit the admitted relative, then returned to the waiting area and passed the badge along to another set of relatives. Sometimes the patient arrived in the waiting room via the elevator, and the family rushed to greet them.

Now remember, this wasn’t a maternity waiting room: this was a waiting area attached to an emergency room for a hospital specializing in cancer treatment. Some of the patients I saw looked quite sick. But the mood in that waiting room was positive. There seemed to be an emphasis on family and togetherness: gathering in the face of bad news, but not becoming disconsolate with grief even if the bad news turns worse.

I found there was much to learn from this unique approach to gathering when illness strikes the family.  It reminded me, in a way, of the Irish wake: a real party in the face of tragedy. Of course, the Irish wait until the worst has happened, and party almost in the face of that end. The Mexicans may have improved on that idea!

The Why Question

A couple of my close friends are going through one of those quintessential “bad times” we all seem destined to experience eventually. Theirs includes cancer diagnoses (note the plural), which just complicate their lives immeasurably. And it leads other friends to question “why”as in “why is this happening to them?”

The why question is an obvious one under the circumstances, but it is the right question at the wrong time. Let me explain. At its heart, the why question is a search for an answer in order to assign blame. Its premise is that blame can be assigned: but why accept that premise? What makes a person think there is blame to assign? I know that some people trot out “the problem of evil” (an offshoot of the Why question) as a means to question the existence of God. If you are a believing Christian, there is nothing in your faith which would lead you to believe God is responsible for the bad things that happen. If you an atheist or agnostic, why should there be a reason? Sh*t happens, as the bumper sticker says.

Linking the fact that evil happens with the necessity of a cause is like misunderstanding irony: ironic humor requires a cause and effect, or else it is not ironic (an aside which permits me to post Alanis Morissette’s infamous song “Ironic”, which has either the most confused lyrics in the history of music <!>, or is meta-ironic, since a song about irony contains none.  You be the judge.)

But I digress. The larger problem in my opinion is asking the Why question at the wrong time.  Consider this allegory: Tax filing deadlines approach (public service announcement: they do!). You decide tomorrow is the day to complete your taxes. The night before, you order-in the spiciest Thai meal you can stand, open a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, and stay up all night watching a “Die Hard” marathon on TNT. The next morning, as you gather your tax documentation, you wonder why it is so hard to understand tax instructions through a pounding headache and upset stomach.

Good question, bad timing. The why question is an important philosophical (and/or theological) question. The best time to ask it is not when you are hurting, physically or psychically, but when you are clear-headed and relaxed. Everyone must answer the why question eventually: refusing to consider it is just another way of answering it. So it is an important question. Like most important questions, it deserves careful attention, rational thought, and concentration.

Next time you’re sitting back on a beautiful day, after a good meal, with a fine Port (or Scotch, or your adult beverage of choice), consider it properly. Why…is there good in the world?  Why have so many good things happened to me and those I know and love? In a world that is “red in tooth and claw,” (Tennyson), where evolution determines how the species progress and Nature does not care if it rains on your wedding day (sorry, Alanis), why is there any good at all?

Aye, that’s a good question!

The road to nowhere

We are just weeks away from departing for the Camino, so our training is waning as we try not to suffer any injuries from overdoing it. We were looking for one more simple challenge, something which would be different. We settled on our local road to nowhere.

Nearly everywhere we have lived, there has been a road to nowhere.  Built by a local government for reasons known but to God, such roads seem to pop up in the middle of nowhere and run some indeterminate distance before ending just as suddenly. Sometimes they were predicated on a future development which did not occur. Others were custom built for some single benefactor. All seem strange and out of place. Just so with ours.

Our road to nowhere is visible from just about anywhere, lakeside. It snakes up the mountain range, being the only local road which does so. You can imagine how expensive it is to put in such a road, even if you save money by not putting in extras like guardrails(!).

one guardrail
long way down

Like most roads to nowhere, ours spawned several legends. One has it that the cartels paid for it, and planned to build a casino/resort on top of the mountain. Another holds it was part of a land swap deal with the local indigenous peoples (ejidos) who often own mountainside property. A third story was that it was a failed housing development spawned during the last housing boom. Quien sabé?

There are two houses, with amazing views, under construction

We just wanted a short walk which was steep, not cobblestone, and provided some nice views: three checks for us. And of course, it wouldn’t be a road to nowhere if it didn’t just STOP.

The road overlooks the Tobolandia water park (lower right) and the Walmart (upper left)
The Jacaranda are in bloom, so the town is purple.
Judy found the sidewalks amusing: care to go for a stroll?
Tremendous views
¡No mas!

Reclaiming territory

Not a post about Mexico’s intentions toward the western United States, but about the more mundane topic of reclaiming my dining room from mosquitoes.

Readers may recall that we have a terraza adjacent to our living room, which we intended to use–and outfitted as–our dining room. It counts as living space in Mexico, because it has a roof, even if it does not have walls (the concept known as outdoor living). I recall a comment on a local internet board mentioning the problem of mosquitoes, but I also recall responding “we haven’t seen any yet.”

As time passed and the rainy season commenced, los mosquitos arrived. They didn’t really bother me that much, since apparently I don’t taste good to them. Still, we live in the tropics, so any sudden urge to scratch an itch makes one wonder “does this one signal the start of (insert tropical disease here)?” Unfortunately, my dear wife is considered a delicacy in Mosquitoland, so very quickly our dining room (and our famous hanging couch) became terra incognita.  “Here bee Dragons”- or at least mosquitoes.

Getting ready for another rainy season, we committed to reclaiming the terraza. We hired a local firm (ViLuMa) that does screens/doors/etc. to screen in our terraza, using a screen which should withstand my dog’s attempts to hurl himself outside at birds, or claw his was back in when we don’t respond quickly enough.

We had an estimate of $1,500 USD and two days of labor. The price held fast, but of course, it took seven days. The team did precise, quality work, so I am not complaining. Here are the before/after shots.

Before, from living room
After, same view
Before, from patio
After, same view

 

Before, from courtyard
After, same view

Here are the money shots:

Breakfast:

Siesta:

Going to the theatre

Another unique aspect of expat life lakeside is the availability of the fine arts. In addition to numerous musical performers, we have several playhouses, all providing quality entertainment in English. Among the most well-known locally is the Lakeside Little Theatre (LLT), which just completed season 53.

Entrance & the box office

When we were just visiting the area, we managed to attend a performance, and once we settled here, we committed to getting season tickets, which run about $70 USD for six shows. While we were both working, we almost never went out for shows: too busy, too tired, and many of the hottest tickets were expensive, while the topical content was not our cup of tea. Ever notice how many storylines seem literally or metaphorically set on the Upper East Side of “the City” as they say in New York?

Since we are rested, retired and the tickets are cheap, we take that last complaint in stride and enjoy the live entertainment. This season the LLT put on Agnes of God and Fiddler on the Roof, among others. With about 12 showings per play, it is a major commitment by our friends and neighbors, and it is great fun watching them perform.  We go opening night: I agonize watching the performances, as I can identify with the performers as performers, hoping everything goes well. The casts are, well, mature, as are most of the expats in the audience, although they occasionally find some younger performers for key roles. Some performers are retired professionals, some were artists back in college, some just got the theater-bug in retirement: all seem to take the craft very seriously.

The LLT is tucked away mountainside on a side street in San Antonio Tlacayapan, a little village between Ajijic and Chapala. They have a very fashionable lobby and a nice bar area for intermission; I would estimate the theater itself holds a little more than one hundred seats, so there are no bad ones. In addition to live plays, they also broadcast performances by National Theatre Live (we have not attended those, yet).

Bar at Intermission
Inside the threater

Growing up, I never would have imagined being a season ticket holder for a theater, but then again, I never imagined being an expat, either.

A powerful problem

Back in the day when I was institutionalized at the United States Military Academy, we took a heavy load of science, mathematics, and engineering courses, regardless of whatever we thought our major was. One of the more detested classes was Electrical Engineering, or “Juice”as we called it. Juice was a very simple course: learn a series of standard formulas relating to how electricity works and apply them to a series of problems. The challenge was that electricity is, frankly, perverse.  We often use analogies to water (electricity “flows” for example), but these are really wrong, for electricity behaves in ways counter-intuitive to the water-in-pipes model, in that it flows both ways, or doesn’t flow at all, or pulses, or…well, you get it. Except that some cadets did not get it, which meant they never knew which formula to use in what situation, and they struggled. The Juice professors were also in on the gag: they always provided a set of meaningless data points so you could not tell which formula to use just by what data was in the problem.

What we all knew was that we would never need this information again.  The only thing I can remember for sure from Juice was the phrase “Volts don’t kill; amps do.” This in fact is also a gross simplification, since the two are related, and both can do harm. Which I re-learned recently.

It hit 90 degrees a few days last week, and we decided to turn on our mini-split air conditioners.  Regular readers will recall the sad tale of the installation, complete with extra holes and severed water lines, but that is all in the past. Now, we get to reap the benefits of cool, fresh air as we sit in our living room and watch the television.  Except when I click the remote, nothing happens.  Maybe old batteries? We have not used the air conditioner since it was installed in December (when we watched the installers turn it on); maybe the remote was not mated to the unit? Nope, I checked and both remotes worked with our bedroom a/c, but nada with the living room unit.

We got a hold of the folks who installed the units. They had me double check the breakers in our fuse box, which were all working. So they came out. They double checked all the connections but saw nothing amiss. They opened up the unit and showed me the computer chip circuit board, which was clearly “fried.”  Bad news. This led to a quick trip back to our fuse box, where the installer showed me with his voltmeter that the power coming into my casa was running at 244 volts.

Now voltage varies whenever electricity is delivered, but it is supposed to be regulated so it varies within an acceptable range. In the States and down here, voltage should be around 110/120 or 220/240, depending on the type of power supply. At my house, it should be 220.  So 244 is too high, especially since that was a one-time reading and the voltage may spike even higher. That is what happened to my new a/c: a spike cooked the chip circuit.  It could affect any electronic device I have.

So now we have to notify CFE, the power authority, because the high voltage is coming in to at least my entire neighborhood, and it should not be . Meanwhile, we’re scrambling to find a whole-house voltage regulator to protect our appliances and electronics from spikes (or drops: such brown-outs can be just as damaging!) in the future. I recall reading about high and low voltage problems locally, but I had the (false) impression that our newer development had a community voltage regulator. No one seems to know if we do (still checking), but even if we do, it failed, so we’ll get one for ourselves regardless.

Back in the States, we had surge protectors for some of our personal electronics, but since the problem here is both too much or too little voltage, we’ll need to get regulators, especially to protect the fridge and TV. The entire episode was just a reminder that you can’t take anything for granted as an expat: if someone else has a problem with infrastructure, you likely do too…you just don’t know it yet!