What corruption looks like (Part Two)

In the previous post, I gave you a rundown on how corruption looks different to visitors and expats. One further complicating factor here is the drug business.

Most people think that drug money is the root of corruption: it certainly does buy lenient judges, accommodating border guards, and friendly politicians. But the real root of corruption is drug violence. Recall this famous opening scene from the Godfather?

This scene captures a piece of the implicit threat posed by organized crime, but Bonasera is the supplicant: he has come to the Godfather seeking “justice.” In real life, cartels come to everyday people with the implied threat of violence.

They’ll send the new police inductee a note with a bullet and a coin: “¿Plato o plomo?” (“silver or lead?”) meaning accept a bribe or be killed. They’ll see a woman who works cleaning homes and they’ll say to her “You have a fine teenage son. You wouldn’t want him mixed up with a gang, would you? You tell us which houses have safes, and we’ll make sure he never joins up.” Or they tell a gate guard, “Let us know which houses are unoccupied next weekend. You’ll be alone at the gate at night, so don’t make any trouble.” We all like to think we’d be brave when faced with such threats, but the truth is these threats are not idle: people who don’t cooperate just end up dead. And there will be no trial for the perpetrators.

The overwhelming majority of corruption goes on quietly, on side streets and in back rooms. Threat are made, deals cut, money exchanged. Corruption is a fungus which thrives on the dark, fetid side of life. Yet there are still rules. Retribution against women and children is to be avoided. Never rat out anyone to the authorities, or worse yet, the federales NOB. And don’t kill gringos, unless they are involved in the drug business.

Except, as you recall from Part One, now is the season of institutional flux.

On February 1st, a local 78 year-old Canadian expat was shot to death, execution style, while walking on a path to the dentist’s office in the middle of the day. The authorities have provided little detail of the investigation, but the deceased’s friends are steadfast in ruling out any involvement in drugs. Someone tried to carjack a Gringa from a busy street, midday. There were three shootings last week of Mexicans apparently associated with the drug business, resulting in three dead and six wounded.

The last time similar levels of violence happened here was 2012 (notice, six years ago) during a flare up between the Sinaloa cartel and Los Zetas (again, around the federal election that year). This time it appears to be rival factions of the Cártel de Jalisco Nueva Generación (CJNG). For the newbie expats who have come here since, the violence is something new and alarming. Mexicans and expats lakeside are quite right to speak out and demand better security, because a lack of response to such crime appears to condone it, and could lead to a changing set of norms about what is acceptable. Yet the crimes are not new: they are the inevitable result of long-standing corruption, which will on occasion erupt in very visible, very tragic violence.

So we should be active, vocal, and alert, but not fearful. The proper response to an inexplicable death is to mourn, for we are all lessened by it (cue John Donne):

This a super creepy but amazing video which animates an event that never happened: Orson Welles reading the text of John Donne’s famous poem.

Violent crime is always shocking. Sometimes it can be explained, sometimes it truly is random. It is understandable when several shocking crimes occur that people think there is a correlation, that something is different, something has changed. Think of all those days when no serious crime happens: do those days represent a correlation, too?

Where corruption thrives, there is always the possibility of violence, and it will break out in dramatic and unsettling ways. It’s not unusual or even a change. Every person must decide what level of violence they can tolerate. No one should be criticized for saying “¡bastante!” (“enough!”), but everyone should understand what is happening, and why, before acting.

What corruption looks like (Part One)

Mexico remains a vacation location of choice for many people worldwide. Despite nearly non-stop negative publicity, more Americans and Canadians visit Mexico for vacation (and as expats) than any other country. Mexico is unique in being near the top of two different international indices: best place to visit/live, and worst degree of corruption. When you see the other nations on the corruption index, you notice right away they are places you might not even consider visiting: Pakistan, Iraq, Nigeria, and Myanmar for example.

You don’t have to take my word, or some organization’s statistics, to believe Mexico has a corruption problem. Mexican Presidente López Obrador has cited rooting out corruption as a top priority, and his recent effort to eliminate petroleum theft by closing gas pipelines–despite the ensuing gas shortages and a tragic explosion–demonstrates his seriousness.

All of which means Mexico is a place where a visitor is likely to see corruption. And what does that corruption look like? To the visitor, the quintessential picture of Mexican corruption is the overweight transito, or traffic cop, pulling you over for no reason and demanding some mordida (“bites” literally, but a bribe in español). For the most part, it appears harmless, and the way some visitors talk about it, it almost seems to be a required part of an adventurous trip to Mexico.

Expats, too, have their share of transito and mordida stories. One interesting difference is they usually begin with the expat admitting they were either driving without a seat belt, making an illegal left turn, or missing a license plate or emissions sticker (all civil violations in Mexico), thus giving the transito an excuse. The story ends the same way, however: a mordida request.

Yet if you live in Mexico long enough, you get to see what corruption really looks like. The true face of corruption is crime and violence. Here is how that works.

Corruption is… the result of a decadent political regime. We are absolutely convinced that this evil is the main cause of social and economic inequality, and also that corruption is to blame for the violence in our country.

Presidente Andrés Manuel López Obrador

In a society based on law and order, police impartially enforce laws, courts determine guilt and innocence, and the people trust these institutions to act justly. The classic depiction of Lady Justice is blindfolded, as she favors neither rich nor poor, but strictly decides on the merit of the case. In a corrupt society, all these relationships and rules are, well, corrupted. Something besides the truth and merits determines justice: it may be money, power, the whim of the strongman, or the party’s doctrine. Because merit and truth no longer matter, relationships with the new source of justice become all-important.

In Mexico, the federal and state governments all changed as a result of the election last year. The party controlling many legislatures and local governments also changed, and the new Presidente presides over a party he just created. Needless to say as a result, all the patronage relationships were re-arranged. Meanwhile, new municipal administrations came to power to find no money in the accounts (the last administration took it), equipment missing, ridiculous contracts already signed, and secret development agreements uncovered.

This changeover is especially evident every six years, when the federal government changes leadership, as Mexican Presidentes are limited to a single six-year term. During the extended government transition (the election was in July, the federal administration begins on December 1st) there is usually an increase in crime. Police don’t know who to arrest and who to protect, because who is in charge now won’t be in charge soon. Criminals are more active, especially as the holiday month of December begins and there are more people with more money out and about. And this election cycle, the various drug cartels are involved in a re-shuffling of the plazas, as the local drug franchises are known.

As you see, corruption manifests itself in the underpaid cop asking for graft roadside, but it also leads to ineffective or seemingly random law enforcement, a lack of necessary resources (no cars/no gas=no cops), or an opportunity for some quick gains via crime and violence. And we haven’t even gotten to the whole “drug money buys influence” side of the ledger.

In the second part of this post, I’ll take the topic of corruption down to a more personal level.

Plus ça change

“Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose” –French proverb (“The more things change, the more they stay the same”)

As I looked at the February calendar, I kept having that nagging feeling I forgot something. Birthday? No. Wedding anniversary? No. Valentine’s day? Covered. Then I realized we passed our second anniversary as expats on February 1st. Last year I did a fairly long post about the aspects of expat life in Mexico which might dissuade someone from trying it. This year I’ll look at things in general that might encourage you to try the expat life.

Tops on my list of reasons to be an expat: excitement. As an expat, you have no reason to be bored…ever. There is an entire new culture with which to become familiar, a new language to learn, new cuisines to eat, different lifestyles to consider, new friends to make, and exotic places to visit (as a local). Depending on where you choose to live, this excitement level can vary from mild (in a community with many expats and a familiar culture) to extreme (truly on your own in a place not known for accommodating foreigners).

Closely related is reason number two: freedom. Folks from NOB consider themselves quite free, thank you very much, but expat life moves one from being free to living free. As an expat, you literally choose outside the lines (we call them borders) and consciously decide to live…wherever. It’s not where you or your parents were born, or where your job is. As with all true freedom, great responsibility abides. Once you become an expat, you can hardly blame anyone else if your new home disappoints: either you weren’t prepared, or you chose poorly, or, well, it’s all on you.

Like great responsibility, “the Dude abides”

Reason number three is education. Everyone who travels internationally quickly learns at least something about different cultures, but expat life is an advanced degree in comparative cultures. I traveled all over the world for work, and I lived overseas (in Germany) for three years. Yet I never understood how overwhelming the consumer culture of the States was until I lived for (now) two years in a developing nation. Sure, I had heard about “keeping up with the Joneses”, but that was for superficial people. When you are bombarded with advertising, chided to work harder and longer to earn more for your comfort, your safety, your family’s well-being, you become inured to another point of view. Now when I visit the States, I marvel at how well consumerism has manipulated people to believe in it at all costs.

Speaking of costs, expat life might be a way to stretch your resources. If you check out YouTube, Instagram, Patreon, et cetera, you’ll see an a modern take on a old phenomenon: the young vagabond. Those of a certain age recall the “Europe on $5 a day” books which enticed young travelers to see the world on a shoestring budget. Nowadays, some young people cut all ties to a “normal life” and travel around just sharing their experiences, supported by those on social media who “click on” their sites. Likewise for expat retirees, there are places where most of the main costs of living (food, housing, transport) are much cheaper, and living well on something like a Social Security check is possible.

Finally, I would add that expat life is a challenge. We all need challenges: it’s why Edmund Hillary climbed Everest, why Willie Sutton robbed banks, why Tom Brady keeps playing football. Of course there are many ways to find a new challenge without leaving your home country, but living somewhere else presents a unique one.

Expat life is not for everyone, and not for all times. As I have noted before, it has its ups and downs. On balance, it’s an option more could consider, if they better understood all their options.

Being Charitable

We had a busy week, preparing for the annual fundraiser lunch for the Villa Infantil, a local orphanage run by a small number of Mexican nuns. The fundraiser is a big event, held at a large evento, and easily accommodated over 400 paying guests this year.

The front third of the event hall (note the gilets jaunes at our table)

When the snow birds come back for the winter, the charity season starts in earnest. Hardly a week goes by without a dinner, auction, cook-off, musical performance, or sale of some sort to raise money for the plethora of local charities. Moreover, these events come heavily staffed by volunteers who give of their time, treasure, goods or services for the cause.

As last year, we specialized in what we do best: Judy was a concierge, and I was the parking czar. So she got to dress up and be (naturally) charming, while I got a safety vest, a cowboy hat, and a whistle! Woo-hoo! Oh, and I got to tell drivers in cars where to go, which (if you know me) was quite satisfying.

A special thanks goes out to John King and Tom Kessinger, who completed our “tres amigos de estacionar.” As one of the guests mentioned, we looked as ready to cause trouble as ‘gilets jaunes’ (the yellow vest protesters in France).

Six or so hours of standing in the hot sun (even with a good palm sombrero) took a lot out of me, but seeing everyone have a good time, and some of the children enjoying themselves singing and dancing, was a fine tonic.

Sister with some of the older children, belting out a tune.

As anyone who does so knows, it is truly a blessing to participate in such events. We really do receive so much more than we give.

A World of Sh*t

As we used to say in the Army, “There I was, knee deep in a pile of … (whatever).” This past Friday I was in the middle of a vast pool of waste. How else does one spend time in retirement? Worse yet, I was there entirely of my own accord! (Brief diversion: this reminds me of the old English joke. Bloke #1: “Took me wife on a vacation to the Caribbean.” Bloke #2: “Jamaica?” Bloke #1: “No, she went of her own accord!”

Sound it out…it will all make sense!

Anyway, on Friday several of my fellow Rotarians, Judy and I went to visit the local sewage treatment plant in Chapala. As part of our ongoing efforts to work with the pueblo called Ojo de Agua (more on that here), we were invited by our engineer associates from Guadalajara. The pueblo has no sewage treatment, so we went to see what it involves, and specifically the possibility of installing a wetlands (humedales) to address their needs.

So there we were, surrounded by sewage in a variety of stages of treatment. While the treatment plant for Chapala, a city for 50,000, is a large network of tanks, pumps, and industrial devices, the concepts are fairly simple. The raw sewage must have any solid trash separated out. It must be treated with bacteria and air to consume and transform the biologic components. It must be filtered with sand and gravel to eliminate particulate matter. And if it is going to be consumed by humans, it must be chlorinated and and sterilized with ultraviolet light.

If you need to do all this on an industrial scale, you end up with a plant like the one in the pictures. We are considering how to use a simple wetlands, which uses a series of small, hidden tanks to accomplish some of the processing, and finishes by using the wastewater to irrigate a series of ponds/fields (aka wetlands) where non-edibles can be grown.

The plant in Chapala has a demonstration wetlands available. What is most interesting is the wetlands require little equipment, power or maintenance. The one shown here has been unsupervised for nine years, and still water suitable for irrigation comes out of the spigots!

Does much of the same work, only without power and maintenance!
There is something about a life preserver next to a cesspool that screams “don’t bother!”

We learned quite a lot about the process of waste treatment, and got a decent tan to boot! In case you’re wondering about the title, it’s a quote from the film Full Metal Jacket. The first half of that movie is an amazing re-creation of 1960’s Marine Corps boot camp, complete with real (former) Marine drill instructor R. Lee Ermey working without a script! While it is incredibly raw and vulgar (consistent with our topic today, no?), the first half merits watching. The second half is a dystopian fantasy set in Vietnam, just as vulgar but probably not worth your time.