What Just Happened: California Dreamin’

You would be forgiven if you caught the wrong inference from my title. Two things just happened in California. One was the end of an era, meaning things will never be the same ’til I die; God only knows the other was much ado about nothing. Let’s talk about the second one.

A week ago Friday, the Trump administration ordered ICE agents to conduct immigration raids in California. This was indeed a provocation. Various governors and mayors have challenged the federal government on immigration enforcement, refused to cooperate (well within their rights), and said they would resist such raids. The raids were also completely within the legal bounds of what ICE is authorized to do. These two facts are inarguable, wouldn’t it be nice if we could keep both in mind at the same time?

How soon we forget! (Clinton)
Obama, the so-called “Deporter in Chief”

Not only are these raids completely legal, they are routine. They got around under Clinton, Bush, and Obama. The main differences were: (1) the previous Presidents insisted those being rounded up were either (a) criminals, or (b) recent arrivals (such is the law on “removals” as they are called in legal circles) and (2) the ICE agents were alone (without other federal or state assistance) and unmasked.

The Trump administration argues it is prioritizing the same groups, but also detaining any incidental illegal immigrants it discovers during the raids. As to ICE and masking, understand this: ICE agents were not targeted under the previous administrations (if you doubt they are targeted today, search on social media and you’ll find groups dedicated to this mission. I won’t provide links because what they’re doing is illegal.). And back when most state and local law enforcement organizations cooperated with ICE, there was less need for raids, as ICE simply contacted the local authorities and picked up criminal illegal aliens, or recent arrivals who had been arrested for some other crime, to deport them. The recent (last ten years) move to stop local law enforcement cooperation necessitates raids. Funny how that works.

Another difference is how the press and immigration activists described the efforts. Back then, the press took pains to note the good vibrations in the government’s position that it was acting within the laws, and that sometimes entire families had to be deported under the law. Activists were as adamant then as now, stating that everything being done was immoral and illegal; they won few if any cases, but more importantly, they did not encourage interference with federal law enforcement operations. Now they do. They just weren’t made for these times.

All images from the New York Times

As soon as the ICE raids began, groups gathered to interfere. Some of their actions were peaceful protests. Others committed direct interference. As news of the detentions spread, the protests grew. But this was not widespread. Look at a map of the disturbances: you have to be in very specific places to see what’s happening; most angelenos went about their daily business unaffected. Contra President Trump, things were not out of control; this was not the Sloop John B!

But look again at that map. Where were the hotspots? Centered on federal facilities which protesters associated with ICE or detentions. The contention that all was well and under control (from mayor Bass and governor Newsom) was just as contrived. They are welcome to voice their opinions, but the security of federal facilities is the federal government’s–and specifically the President’s–decision. He called out the California National Guard.

Governor Newsom filed suit alleging this act was illegal; his request for an emergency injunction was immediately denied, and while the case will take longer to adjudicate, even if he wins, it will probably be on the technicality that President Trump used the wrong law to enact his deployment (there are two). Did Trump need to call out the National Guard? Probably not, but it was not outrageous to do so, and completely within his authority. The burning cars on the streets weren’t just fun, fun, fun, they settled that argument. As the violence continued, Mayor Bass instituted a local curfew in those areas, which seems to undermine her contention “all was under control.” If everything is calm, there is little need for a dusk-to-dawn curfew in an urban environment.

LAPD has everything under control, at least while they stay under the bridge. Square the peaceful protest with the piles of rocks and damaged police vehicles

The National Guard (and soon Marines) number around four thousand troops. They are guarding those same federal buildings. Some officials have suggested troops will accompany ICE on raids, too, but that is not confirmed. Why isn’t the LAPD providing security for ICE on raids? Normally, local law enforcement would create a perimeter for federal law enforcement operations. But local law enforcement can’t be requested, both because they are forbidden to assist ICE in raids, and if ICE notified them of an impending target, there is a certainty the raid target would get notified, too. Oddly enough, the laws and policies stating no support for ICE do not supersede police requests for emergency assistance, so once riots break out, ICE can call on LAPD (“Help me, Ronda!”) to reestablish order. Read that sentence twice: yes, that’s our moral high ground–let the riot start, then suppress it, as long as you don’t help ICE in the first place. Most of the violence and arrests have been between protesters and local law enforcement, not ICE nor the Guard.

LAPD and associated state and local law enforcement hundreds of arrests for criminal trespass, violence, public disturbance, arson, looting, and even attempted murder. That might be a normal Friday night in Compton, but still. The governor’s and mayor’s assurances to “Don’t worry, (ICE) Barbie” didn’t harmonize, let alone reassure.

That’s where things stand as I write this blog. Did President Trump go beyond what he said he would do in his campaign? Not at all. He promised to begin mass deportations, starting with the “worst of the worst” but proceeding to anyone in the country. Secretary of Homeland Security Noem has a running series of commercials encouraging all people in the country illegally to self-deport, even with federal government assistance, and assuring them eventually they will be deported one way or another. Some people may hate this policy, but it was no secret; he was true to his school, or at least his campaign promise.

Did Trump grandstand to stick it to California Governor Newsom? Of course. He probably counted on an overreaction, and got exactly what he wanted: an excuse to send in first the National Guard, then the Marines. For his part, Newsom hoped to re-fire his flailing Presidential hopes by going all in, calling this “the beginning of the end for American democracy.” Those Guard soldiers and Marines can barely occupy a few square blocks: hardly any Army of occupation.

Oh, I mentioned two notable things happened in California. The truly memorable one was the passing of Brian Wilson, the leader and creative genius behind the Beach Boys. Some of you may have caught their famous song titles sprinkled throughout the post (links included to their songs; take a listen). I thought it especially appropriate, as the Beach Boys wrote upbeat songs with surprisingly deep lyrics about life, at a time most Americans thought the country was tearing itself apart. You couldn’t listen to their amazing harmonies (bereft of that scourge of modern music, AutoTune!) and not be impressed (so said the Beatles!), and perhaps for a minute recognize that real beauty is immortal, and transcends the petty politics of the day. A good reminder, a better lesson, and a most positive note.

Thoughts on travel (2025)

Musings, observations, and other half-completed thoughts that occurred to me as we took a transatlantic cruise (Miami-Barcelona), stayed in Andalusia and Alicante (Spain), then briefly toured Rome on the way home (via London and Los Angeles).

I have no idea what this warrior is supposed to be doing; Spear-throwing?
  • The “tourists go home” movement is mostly theater. We visited the Canary Islands, Barcelona, and Sevilla, three hotbeds of protest against foreign tourists in general and apartment-buying foreigners specifically (we are both). We saw none of it. There are occasional protest events, but they’re scheduled and conducted for the cameras and local politics (this Sunday’s protests are an example). It’s not that there isn’t a real issue: lack of affordable housing is very real, as is over-tourism. The first is primarily a problem because Spain’s socialist government hasn’t tried very hard to increase home/apartment construction since their economy imploded back in 2008. Now they have a huge backlog, and too much demand, not enough supply. And the other part is Spanish property owners changing their rental units to tourist rentals. Who wants to rent to your fellow Spaniards when they can invoke unwise renter protections and live rent-free for years while you try to evict them? Whose problem is that? The tourists? Foreign owners represent a single-digit percentage of Spanish properties. And everybody knows that Spain is riding an economic wave right now at least partly fueled by tourism. So expect a lot of press noise and political posturing, but just love from those you meet on the street.
  • I’ve complained every year in these posts about the growing slovenliness of travelers in general, i.e, adopting American-casual as appropriate attire. It’s official. In the Year of Our Lord 2025, you can no longer spot an American using the usual dead-giveaways (until one opens his mouth). Baseball caps are ubiquitous on men of all ages. Shorts, too. Women in workout leotards. Both sexes with oddly-named collegiate attire (“Carolina U.” in purple?) or English slang prints (sometimes quite offensive, but I guess not if you’re not primarily an English-speaker). Europeans still get dressed up for things, but if they’re just walking down for a cappuccino and a croissant, they’ll look like they might be headed to Mickey D’s!
  • Modern technology has pretty much ended one’s ability to get really lost. GPS is always “watching you, watching you” as Hall & Oates sang. Google has mapped the entire planet, then photographed its streets, too. I’ve come to rely on Google for locations and times of operations for local businesses, especially bars, cafes, and restaurants. And it’s been pretty accurate in major cities. But we like to get out and about, to small cities, towns, and even villages. And there, the days and hours of operation, even whether the business is still in business, are all quite lacking. The businesses themselves don’t keep the data updated, and the locals who frequent them already know. So remember, Google may get you to that little bit of heaven cafe you seek, but whether it’s open or not? Only heaven knows!
Always the Commander; he needed guidance!
  • There is no need to pretend you’re a Canadian, eh! Europeans don’t generally bring up politics with strangers. We met many locals, in taxis, on tours, in cafes, and we were never shy about being Americans. Of course we had two advantages: speaking Spanish and being able to say we live in Mexico, which everybody finds endlessly fascinating, so there’s no need to talk about US politics. While Americans seem to enjoy immediately picking red and blue sides, other countries don’t. So if you don’t shove it (your MAGA-hate or -hat) in a local’s face, nobody else will care, either.
  • Transatlantic cruises are a real alternative to red-eye flights to Europe. You can scale your costs to your budget (inside cabin/no frills, balcony with drinks package, sweet suite) compared to economy/premium economy/first class airfare. Yes, you need to get back, eventually. But you do buy 10-14 days of leisure, a few ports-of-call, and minimized jet lag. For those with the luxury of time, it is a very attractive alternative. Caveats: don’t try to discover whether you like ocean cruises on a transatlantic one. The Sargasso Sea is no place to learn you have a landlubbers stomach (although they’ll have plenty of meds on board if you do). Do research the various lines, as their offerings are very different and aimed at different crowds. Transatlantic cruises will generally feature an older, more well-off clientele, that is, people who have the time (most importantly) to spend. But in general transatlantic cruises are less pricey (per day) than other cruises, because they are one-offs (the ship needs to get from here-to-there for the upcoming season).
  • The EU and UK have added new travel authorizations. These are not visas, which are legal permissions to visit. Long ago, western nations agreed to visa-free travel between certain countries to facilitate business and tourism. After 9/11, the problems with this approach were apparent. The US was first off the mark with ESTA, the Electronic System for Travel Authorization. The EU has been trying to initiate a similar system called ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) for a decade, and it’s still not in effect! The UK has rolled out its Electronic Travel Authorization or ETA. All of these are administrative reviews done online. You pay some money, submit personal/travel data, and get a response which verifies your data is tied to your passport and good for travel over a specified period (usually 2+ years). The processes are simple and should be quick, as long as you haven’t been naughty, traveled to odd locations, or have a name like Bill Bin Laden. Anyway, what do you need to know? You need to complete the process before you travel! And it may apply to transit at airports, too. We were returning from Rome via London/Heathrow, and neither the government, the airport, nor the airlines could assure me we would not leave the secure area of the airport to make our connections, so we could technically “enter” the UK and need ETA. We got it (instantly) as a precaution, and it’s good for two years. Better safe than sorry. When the EU’s ETIAS comes online, you’ll need to do the same for continental Europe. Be prepared! (Late update: the Heathrow Express bus ran between the terminals on the secure side, so we didn’t need our ETA at all. But if we had checked luggage, we might have needed it.)
Always the therapist!
  • We remain impressed with Spain’s national train system. It was one of the worst in Europe, but a few years back, the government stopped controlling the market, let in competition, and invested in infrastructure (courtesy of the EU). The results have been tremendous. You can get comfortable, high-speed train tickets for 20-40 Euros that take you quickly cross country. Most of the lines connect in Madrid, but even with the connections they are fast. We were just on a fast line from Madrid that clocked in at 299 kph (that’s 186 mph!). There are plenty of locals lines (cercanias), trams, a few subways, and of course many busses. On the high speed network, both Renfe (the Spanish national line) and Iryo (a Italian-Spanish consortium) impressed us. Comfortable cars, multiple classes, good service, even good food at the cafeteria car. We were less impressed with Ouigo (the French-owned alternative) which seems to have adopted the budget airline model of customer service. But all were quick and inexpensive. Pro-tip: if you’re visiting Spain and moving around, skip the airports and use the train. Just book your tickets early, as there are huge discounts for early booking and the trains do fill up. Second pro-tip: if you take a high-speed train, your ticket is good for local travel before/after the main ride (ie., getting to/from the train station on other trains/trams or connecting between trains).
  • Maybe everybody else knows this, but here goes in case someone doesn’t: we like keeping up with the news/shows we watch regularly while we travel. So we bring a long our Firestick and remote, then plug it into the smart TVs every hotel/rental has. It updates automatically to the new television, then brings up our channels, viewing apps, etc., all as we like it. Perhaps it’s just because we use YouTube TV (not YouTube, which is different) on the Firestick. But I’m betting other streaming devices and providers have similar options. It’s a nice touch of home, and takes up very little space (about the size of an electric shaver). Don’t forget an international plug adapter!

Nos encanta Alicante

I’m sure a few friends are thinking, “where?” Alicante (ah-lee-KAHN-tay) is one of those places which hasn’t really made it onto the cognitive map of most Americans and Canadians, but the English know it well! Nestled on Spain’s southeast coast, due south of better-known Valencia, Alicante is the largest city along the Costa Blanca, 200 kilometers of pristine beaches overlooked by looming mountains. Alicante has become a tourism hotbed for Germans and English, and the latter group includes a sizable population of permanent expats (even after Brexit). Sizable as in almost 20% of the local population!

Despite entering the month of June, the weather in Alicante was a bit better than Andalusia. Slightly more humid, slightly cooler, perhaps due to the moderating effect of the Mediterranean Sea. The city itself is not that large, about 350k at last count. But it is large enough to have all the accoutrements of city life, with the added benefits (or is it drawbacks) of tourist attractions. Within five blocks of our apartment in the tourist zone, about ten blocks from the beach, we passed a Taco Bell, McDonald’s, KFC, Burger King (Rey de la hamburguesa?) and Five Guys. Sigh. But a million tapas, cervecerias, and arrocerias, too.

As is our custom, we took a food tour, and this time I decided to shoot some photos before we woofed down the food. Among the delicacies pictured: marcona almonds, ensalada with tuna and egg white, mojama (dried tuna with roe in a cold vegetable salad, warm baccalau (creamy fried cod) in a tomato sauce, and the pièce de résistance (slippin’ in some français there!), a montadito (lil’ sandwich) with Iberian ham, foie gras, rocket, and covered in a turrón sauce. Turrón is a local delicacy made (especially around Christmas) from those marcona almonds into a lightly sweet nougat. But at Sento tapas bar, they created a montadito, called the Ivan, which won best tapa in Alicante a few years back, and we can attest: it’s a legend! The salty cured ham, the bite of the rocket, the nutty sweetness of the turrón, and umami from the foie gras mixed to create a perfect savory treat. Pro-tip: when visiting a city for more than a day, reserve a slot early on with a food tour. It will introduce you to other interesting travelers, give you a local point of contact, and set you up to explore the city’s cuisine flawlessly.

The tourist/beach vibe was strong in Alicante. We saw folks headed down toward the beach early in the morning, and last-minute returnees as late as 10:00 pm (dead give-away? Nobody takes their beach umbrella on a tapas crawl). The Costa Blanca is basically one long beach, so finding a strip to your liking is easy. Developers have taken to dropping a cascade of high-rises just off the beach strip, but there’s still plenty of room in the sand and nothing cordoned off as private property (as far as we could tell).

Locals were already preparing for the big local happening, the Hogueras de San Juan (bonfires of St. John) which will happen June 24th-29th. Christian missionaries took the pagan rites of lighting fires for the Summer solstice and “blessed” them as an offering in honor of St. John the Baptist (yes, this really happened, and it is commemorated in an official ceremony). Now it’s a week-long festival where barrios build giant wood-and-paper mâché figures, which compete in a citywide vote, before being lit on fire in a special beach ceremony in the middle of the night. The neighborhoods hold public block parties, authorities relax open container laws, and the entire downtown turns into one big party zone (late, loud, but generally well-behaved). There are numerous parades which include women (especially) getting dressed up in period costumes and, well, parading. A local told us (like many places we’ve been), locals are split about the Hogueras: you either love it and participate in it, or get the heck out of town for a week. All we saw was the elaborate signage and decoration going up, designating the parade routes, the barrio fiestas, and the sponsors. I’ll choose to read about it from the quietude of Mexico (sarcasm font)!

We did some less touristy things, but more in line with apartment hunting, such as riding the tram and metro lines from one end to the other to get a feel for different neighborhoods. We’ve also contacted a local firm to consider a long-term rental for next year, perhaps as another form of trying the experience out. With such a rental (approximately 90 days), we could really settle in and even take some regional trips from the home-base. One local told us we might be able to establish the kind of relationship which would allow for a semi-permanent rental agreement, sort of a “preferred customer” thing where we could even leave some clothes and things behind for next year. We’ll see.

Why did Alicante impress us so much more than Sevilla (which was totally surprising to me)? Sevilla has more history, more culture, for sure. Cuisine is a wash: both have great food. Locals were equally friendly in both, although we saw a few signs of tourism fatigue in Sevilla. Alicante is just more live-able: cooler, with the tourist pull being the beach, not the old town. And it’s considerably less expensive.

So if you’re visiting Spain, you must visit Sevilla. If you want to hit a beach town, Alicante is just one of many in Spain. For living, the situation changes. I guess it’s a supply-and-demand thing: there is only one Sevilla, (limited supply, unlimited demand) but many great beach towns (unlimited supply, limited demand).

Don’t rain on my (stupid) parade!

Usually, social media nonsense runs off me like water off a soldier’s poncho. But this time, it forced me to summon my inner soldier. Be forewarned: this post may contain flashing anger, strong language, smokin’ rhetoric, but no nudity. At least I think not.

There is a specter haunting DC. A threat so terrible it must be stopped. A crime against all that is holy, humane, and intelligent. It is wasteful of time and money, unnecessary, and potentially damaging to our delicate infrastructure. It is a birthday celebration. And a parade.

On June 14th, the US Army is going to celebrate its 250th anniversary. It’s going to have a big parade in Washington, DC. Army leaders love parades; soldiers don’t. I know. As a onetime cadet and alum of the “long, gray line,” I participated in more parades than most any other soldier (short of the Old Guard at Arlington). We paraded twice a week, sometimes three times when Saturday seemed like too much of a day-off. And I hated all of it: the getting ready, the practice parades, the occasional mid-parade rainstorm, the cold north wind blowing down the Hudson river, the sunburn on one’s exposed ears. I still have “too late/not ready” dreams about West Point parades, as my subconscious seeks something about which to stress.

That’s me . . . I’m the one in the gray.

I hated all the parades, but one. I got “awarded” to march in President Reagan’s inaugural parade (depicted above). The reward was a heavily-policed bus ride to a barracks in Virginia, locked in for a night so we couldn’t commit any misdemeanors, then the honor of being the lead military unit (oldest unit comes first) in the parade line, which put us first after all the horse-mounted civilians. Yes, a great pair of corfam shoes ruined, and trousers which forever after had the faint hint of horseshit. But it was worth it, I think.

So I speak from no love of parades. But I do have great respect for the Army. It deserves a celebration. It didn’t choose to be born on June 14th, 1775. The Continental Congress created it that day. Nor did it choose to make 2025 a special anniversary. The Navy will celebrate the same on October 13th. The Navy won’t have a parade: they’re terrible at marching (just watch any Army-Navy football game march-on). Perhaps they will have a group swim, although I once told a naval officer “isn’t there something terribly gone wrong when a sailor is ‘in’ not ‘on’, the water?” He was unamused. The Marine Corps will celebrate this year, too, on November 10th (of course) The Marines are also eschewing a parade. They would be magnificent if they did it, with 3D holograms of beach landings, drone fireworks, and 24 hour press coverage, naturally. The Air Force will have nothing, as they are about as old as a great Scotch. But I digress.

The parade should be a blast: over 6,000 soldiers with full guidon regalia. Army aviation flyovers. Storied units, with some soldiers in era-appropriate gear (Even I would sign up for that. Hell, I marched in wool–not Merino wool, by the way–in a uniform design from the war of 1812. It combined the breathability of polyester with the smell of damp sheep). This parade should be a visual re-collection of our nation’s history , and one not likely to be recreated in our lifetimes.

Yet something about the Army’s parade has set people’s collective hair on fire. I can’t put a finger on it. Some say it will cost too much; estimates range from US$16-45 million! One note: when estimates range that widely, they’re basically what the Brits call shite. If you count things like “military pay,” “overtime,” and “training time loss” and give them monetary value, you can make a cost estimate as large as you like. President Obama’s inaugural cost the government a very real US$50 million. The federal government spends $50 million every four years on each of the party nominating conventions. The DOD Comptroller reported in 2023 the department spent US$86 million on diversity activities. And the list goes on. Somehow, this one-time, semiquincentennial expense alone merits unique opposition.

But it’s not only about the cost. There are serious national security concerns, too, I’m told. Those soldiers won’t be training. As if one week-plus of downtime was going to be the difference next war. One numbnuts (a technical Army term for someone who should know better) actually said ‘the Army was wasting time and money moving heavy vehicles cross country rather than using them for training.’ Learning how to cross-load an M1 Abrams tank correctly on a train at a railhead, planning the routes so it doesn’t get decapitated by a bridge, and getting all the supplies, fuel, and parts to the right place at the right time ARE training, amigo. Better yet are those who complain that the vehicles might harm DC roads (have you driven there? There are potholes which could double as anti-tank barriers!) or perhaps damage the bridges. Hmmm. Guess the Army never learned how to check that out. Or maybe it already did (hint: Google is your friend):

So many opinions, so few bother to fact-check . . . Army M1 Abrams tank crossing Arlington Memorial bridge, 1991

So no, this isn’t about cost, nor is it about damages, nor is it about military preparedness. This is all about one thing, and one thing only: Donald J. Trump. It seems the Army had the great misfortune to share its birthday with the 47th President of the United States. For that sin, people are calling for the parade to be cancelled, and some idjiots are even planning a protest.

During his first term, French President Macron invited then-president Trump to attend the massive Bastille day military parade in Paris. Trump was impressed, and wanted to do the same in Washington. Not because there was any reason to do so, just because he wanted to do so. It never happened. Now there is an excuse. Do I think Trump readily agreed to any request for an Army birthday celebratory parade? Of course he did. Do I imagine the Army seized on the opportunity? I hope so. If the Army staff didn’t point out the fact there will never be more White House support for a parade than this President, this year, it was malpractice. Every interest group looks for White House support. It just so happens the Army got lucky.

So riddle me this, Batman: if Trump were born on the same day as the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr, would we be calling to “stand down” vice “stand up” that day? If the Army held its parade on June 13th, would it be ok? Sometimes dates and commemorations are inconvenient. I know people who were born or got married on September 11th; should they not celebrate because of the terrible evil of that day? I don’t feel I am going out on a limb to say the Army will only have one 250th birthday; why spoil it because of someone else?

If you hate Donald Trump, you have a lot of company. Get together and hold a birthday party for Harriet Beecher Stowe, Burl Ives, Pierre Salinger, Che Guevara (!), Pat Summitt, Boy George, Steffi Graf, or the United States Army, all of whom share birth-dates. You can resume your non-stop hatred the next morning, and I’m sure there will be something about which to be angry. In the meantime, tell a soldier “happy birthday” and buy them a drink. If you’re in or near DC, show up and give them some love. They’re marching whether you’re there or not, but I’ll admit, an enthusiastic crowd is at least a distraction from the horse turds.

Everybody else: drop the silly pretenses, and leave my (stupid) parade alone.

You say Seville, yo se Sevilla

Our two-week sojourn in Andalusia is coming to an end. We based ourselves in Sevilla (say-VEE-ah), better known in English as Seville. Our small (50m2) apartment was next to Santa Maria la Blanca church, at the edge of the old Jewish quarter (judería) in the old town. Literally in one of those tiny alleyways the city is famous for: the first thing our taxi-driver told us was how he couldn’t get us there (too small).

“Our” alley

Those teeny pedestrian alleys are a feature, not a bug. Temps hit over 38° Celsius while we visited (100° F!). Out in the sun, you quickly realize the importance of . . . not being out in the sun. But hit those alleyways, and the shade includes a blast of cool air, as the winding passages not only keep the sun/heat out, they channel winds like canyons do naturally. Pro-tip: navigate the alleys during the days, even if they take longer, because they are far more confortable.

Cathedral, alcázar, horse-drawn carriages, and tourists, all-in-one

Our apartment location was perfect: fifteen minutes (or less) walk to the Cathedral, the train stations, the Setas, the Triana market, just about everything. Sevilla is an eminently walkable place,and what extra exploration we wanted to do was available by tram, a very limited subway, or an excellent train system (local and high-speed).

This trip we wanted to settle in and enjoy the local rhythms (so to speak), while checking out neighborhoods in case we want to set up a home-base here. So we had no tight sight-seeing schedule, but rather tried to simulate living (vice visiting) here. We did decide not to try cooking too much; while the apartment had a basic set of kitchenware, cooking anything beyond the most simple dishes would have been too inconvenient (for the chef and the dish-washer). That and Sevilla is famous for its tapas bars, so why not?

Casa Morales, a tapas bar favored by locals (but known to tourists, too)

I’ve seen estimates there are more than 3,000 tapas bars in Sevilla. Having walked the town for two weeks, I think it’s an undercount. As you may know, tapas probably originated in Andalusia, most likely as free snacks placed on small plates atop drinks (to keep the flies away). In many places in Spain, tapas remain this way. But tapas in Sevilla evolved: they have become a cultural tradition. They are not free. They come in different sizes (tapas for one, raciones to share, plato for a meal). They highlight local delicacies and fusion of different cuisines.

And they are delicious! Carrillada (beef or pork cheeks) and rabo del toro (Bull’s tale) are slow-cooked, savory, and fork-tender. Every kind of fried fish, including things like cod, squid, octopus, cuttlefish, anchovies and dogfish. Pringa (pork stew) on a sandwich! Spinach and garbanzos, a warm, flavorful side dish, and of course, jamón iberico. These thin slices of the most succulent pork one can imagine, salty and sweet (some are only fed acorns), and accompanied by a surfeit of local cheeses. The servings sizes may be small, but the flavors are immense and quite filling. We regularly planned more tapas than we would order, and sometimes even more than we could eat.

Tried to take a long-resolution photo, but we ate too fast. Had tuna tartar, patatas bravas, and tuna brioche

We tried to meld our normal daily schedule with Spanish approaches. Breakfast (desayuno, literally “de” as in ending and sayunar as in fasting) is small here, usually a coffee and perhaps a small, sweet pastry. Late morning, Spaniards will have a snack (almuerzo), often some toast with olive oil and/or tomato rubbed on it (very good). Lunch is a big meal, often eaten in groups, where plates of tapas, etc., are shared. There can be another round of snacking (merienda) in the later afternoon, with dinner (not usually a big meal as in the West) not before 8:00 or even 10:00 pm! We had a single, big breakfast of coffee, fresh bakery items and pan con tomate, did some sight-seeing or neighborhood recon, then hit a tapas bar for one-of-everything, por favor. That was it for our eating day (we gave up eating dinner a few years back, which neither of us miss), although I usually had a little merienda in the afternoon.

Funny thing about tapas bars: we made a point of getting to some of the more famous ones, but every one we went to was between good and great. Businesses, especially food businesses, take great pride in their offerings here. Heck, the snack bars at the train station had better-than-average food. So you don’t really need to squeeze into a reservation slot at La Bartola, just walk around and follow these rules:

  • Start at any major tourist sites and walk away from it, using the smallest street you can find.
  • Look for places with no English-language menu offered.
  • Look for places which do advertise their seasonal tapas or a “menú del día.”
  • Select the place with the most locals eating there.
  • Ask the waiter “que me recomienda” (Kay may reck-oh-mee-END-ah”) to get their advice.

Never fails. And don’t be too strict in applying these rules. In a very touristy town like Sevilla, many local places have started putting English-language signs up (as they work for nearly ALL tourists). And maybe there aren’t any locals in the bar because it’s not local eating time. Be flexible! We did eat at places like La Bartola (we even walked in without reservations and only a short wait), and it was also very good. Sadly, such places have become “Insta-fodder,” overrun by younger tourists trying to be totally themselves by doing what everybody else is doing on social media. #signofthetimes.

I tried my wine experiments yet again, with great results. One is to just ask for the vino de casa (house wine) which is usually very nice. The other is to walk into any supermarket, go to the local wine section, and pick the first bottle I see. This trip it was a local red blend called Mucho Más and it was . . . excellent. For E3.50 (about $4.00 USD). Priceless.

We took a food tour, which by luck turned into a private tour with just us on it. Since we had already visited once, and already knew much about Andalusian cuisine, we spent more time talking about living in Seville and other cultural points. Our guide pointed out that while most people know to try pan con tomate for breakfast, the locals go one step further. Take your toast and give it a solid dose of extra-virgin olive oil. Let it set for a minute. Then, instead of simply rubbing on tomato puree, pour on Salmorejo, a cold, tomato-based, rich soup full of garlic. This local delicacy (Salmorejo) is beloved as a refreshing break from the meat-heavy tapas menus, but I never would have thought of it for a breakfast topping!

As for touristy things, we did visit las setas, a very recent (2011) all-wood art monument resembling giant mushrooms. The lower level has a small museum with some ancient artifacts uncovered during the construction, the ground level with shops and cafes, then a top level with a very good observation point over the city, albeit a trifle pricey (E16@). Some say the view is especially fantastic at sunset, and there is a light show on the Setas once dark sets in. Pro-tip: it doesn’t get dark before 10:30 pm in tourist season, so plan accordingly!

The people give a “little” perspective on the immensity of the structure

We also attended laudes and mass in the altar mayor (main altar) in the cathedral. It’s free for those wishing to worship, but worth the ticket (and audio guide) just to take in the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. The security folks gave us the side-eye when we said we wanted to attend services, and they did hover nearby throughout, making sure no one tried to otherwise enjoy the setting in a touristy way. Necessary if not welcoming, but understandable nonetheless. I did sneak a photo of Christopher Columbus’ tomb, camouflaging it as a photo of one of the priests at our mass (mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!)

Critóbal Colón, held aloft by four kings of España!

Other sites worth visiting are the Archivo de Indias, which contains all the Spanish correspondence about the New World during the age of exploration. Ever wonder why Brazil speaks Portuguese and mostly the rest of South America Spanish? Blame the Pope and the treaty of Tordesillas, which divided the entire world between Spain and Portugal. The records of the Conquistadores? All here. Free to visit, too! Nearby is the Torre de Oro, a small former watchtower which contains a very nice Spanish naval museum (they did win at Lepanto, after all, if not with the Armada) and views of the city for a small donation.

Our verdict on Sevilla? Very friendly, very easy to get around, very delicious. Oh, and very hot, even in mid- to late-May. Excellent hub as a home base, but still a little pricey for apartments. We liked the suburbs of Dos Hermanas, close enough for a ten-minute local train service. Jerez de la Frontera (whence the fortified wine sherry gets its name) is much closer to Cádiz, and also very enticing, but seems a little far afield. Our biggest concern is the heat. No one wants to be trapped in an air conditioned apartment from 1000-1800, or longer. The heat is so oppressive it reminded us of a winter visit to Quebec City where we simply walked from café to café downing chocolat chaud. Here the opposite extreme: I started drinking the local lager, Cruzcampo, just because it was cold! This was an extreme heat event, and it made the local news. But as we all have experienced, such “rare” events are becoming more common.

We’re headed east to the coast to try that out next!

A Very Concrete Metaphor

We’re on a European trip and we had the great pleasure to spend a day and night in Barcelona. We chose a hotel just a block from the Sagrada Familia Basílica, and a room with a view thereof. Spectacular. I’m sure most of my friends are generally familiar with the story of Atoni Gaudí (1852-1926) and his plans to build Sagrada Familia. He started in 1882, and it’s nearing completion today. Some of his ideas for construction had to await new technologies to be realized. The Basilica itself somehow escaped destruction during the Spanish Civil War (1936-39), when most churches in Catalonia were ransacked and destroyed, and even Gaudí’s original plans were burned. As I watched the daylight settle on the almost finished structure, the view itself changed before my eyes. Gaudí designed it to highlight different parts depending on the time of day!

And then it struck me that I was witnessing a very concrete metaphor for the Catholic Church itself. The more I probed, the deeper the connection presented itself.

It is the work of millennia, not yet finished and perhaps never will it be. Begun before electricity became commonplace, sons have become grandfathers working to finish Sagrada Familia. And yet it still needs more work to realize its master’s vision. Asked how faithful Catholics can remain so when confronted with whatever outrage presents itself, we respond, “as it was in the beginning, is now, and ever shall be, world without end, Amen!” We are not promised perfection (or completion) in our lifetime, only in eternity. If you do demand it, you expect too much.

It is beautiful, for its own sake. How many times have you heard someone say, “wouldn’t it have been better to spend all that money on the poor?” Folks who mouth those words may not know they are quoting scripture, as Judas (who wants to play that part?) scolded Mary (of Mary, Martha, and Lazarus fame) for “wasting” a year’s wages on perfume for Jesus’ feet, and Jesus replied: “You always have the poor with you, but you do not always have me” (John 12:8). Yes, we could melt down the Statue of Liberty for scrap, or sell off all the works in the Met and feed the hungry. But for all those hungry for food, there are even more hungry for beauty. Everyone needs beauty in life, and all should have their fill (not just those who can afford to visit the Metropolitan Museum!).

It is always in danger of becoming that which it is not. The Basilica is a House of God. But you can’t really visit it to pray. There are certain “free” masses, but the tourist groups fill them before the lines can even form. Sometimes you can wrangle some time in the crypt church, but otherwise you buy a ticket. This is understandable as the structure is a quite spectacular tourist attraction. But Saint Peter’s is more so, and free. The Duomo in Milan is similar in stature, and you can still enter to pray or attend exposition, gratis. Much like in the days of Martin Luther, the Church must constantly be on guard lest it become too this-worldly, and not enough other-worldly.

It is permanent, yet constantly changing. The Catholic Church has been in a battle with modernity since around the beginning of the twentieth century. After the famous Vatican II ecumenical council (1962-65), many outsiders (and some Catholics) expected the Church to “get with the times,” as in change fundamental doctrines. That it didn’t happen has been a sore point ever since for those who expected it to. But the Catholic Church has something called the Deposit of the Faith, and the Pope and his fellow Bishops are responsible for safe-guarding it, not changing it. Doctrine can “develop,” but the authenticity of any developments is demonstrated by how the fundamentals remain the same after the “change.” Gaudí’s towers and spires look amazingly different in the morning and evening light, yet remain fixed physical structures; thus it is for the Church, too. There are other places which welcome a more flexible, with-it vibe. Peace be with them.

It is a compromise between an eternal vision and an earthly reality. The immensely high towers could not be constructed from the materials available when Gaudí envisioned them. Money ran short, time and again. Adjacent structures had to be razed, dispossessing their owners. Progress was retarded by both the Spanish Flu (1918) and the Covid pandemic (2019). Construction exhausted a stone quarry in Montserrat, and England came to the rescue. The Church proceeds, always two steps forward and one step back, always trying to reconcile human frailty with Divine mercy and Divine justice.

It can be used and abused, for good or for ill. Millions are moved simply by the sight of it. Thousands swarm its perimeter, hawking everything from bird-calls to kitschy, plastic Jesus souvenirs. It inspires spontaneous prayers and premeditated pick-pockets. Just so the Church has been a refuge for sinners and swindlers, a hospital for the sick and haven for scoundrels.

It is a temple “not made by human hands” yet of this earthly domain. Gaudí’s design is organic. Its spires and columns resemble trees stretching up from the earth, ending in branches and grape clusters and sheaves (you know, “bringin’ in the sheaves”). It somehow appears to have grown there, rather than placed there as so many other edifices do. Yet its complicated history suggests it was placed there, just not by Gaudí, nor any of the builders. So, too, the Church which endured Roman persecution, barbarian invasion, schism and Reformation, crusade and jihad, Nazism and Communism, state capture and modern indifference. There it stands, demanding your notice.

Thus shall it ever be.

Pope-the-Expat!

The announcement from the Vatican of “habemus papam!” was a moment of mixed emotions for me. On one hand, we were on our way to Europe and would be in Rome soon enough. Sadly, the Conclave of Cardinals couldn’t wait. The Gospel (good news, after all) is they found a most excellent alternative, and the world was spared from Pope Gonzo I.

We were on a transatlantic cruise, watching a live satellite feed as the white smoke billowed from the temporary chimney atop the Sistine Chapel. Listening to the breathless coverage of talking heads filling time, waiting for the Papal doors to open, I heard one commentator read the lines the protodeacon would say to announce the new Pope. First, the famous “habemus papam,” Latin for “We have a Pope!” Then the statement of the full baptismal name, preceded by the word for Lord, “Dominum.” I listened intently for that keyword, as the protodeacon continued ” . . . Dominum Robertum Franciscum Sanctae Romane Ecclesiae Cardinalem Prevost.” Recognizing the latinization of the American name, I turned to Judy and said, “it’s the American, Prevost!”

Like most of the world, we were shocked. Catholics had generally believed American Cardinals were not “papabile ” (Italian literally for “Pope-able” or more correctly “Pope material”) because it was thought to be unwise to pair American political power with Vatican moral suasion. The Holy Spirit, apparently, thought otherwise.

Frank: “do you get the feeling everybody is looking at us?” Earnest: “Yeah, and it’s creeping me out!”

There will be a rush to assess and even claim Pope Leo XIV; it’s already on. I think we can safely say two things. First, Chicago-style pizza is clearly better than New York-style (at least according to the Holy Spirit. Sorry, Cardinal Dolan). Second, no one knows anything about who Pope Leo XIV is.

Time changes all men. None of us are the same as we were as teenagers, or even as young adults. Careers change people, getting married really changes people, as does having children. But none of these fundamentally changes a man like being elected to the position of “the Servant of the Servants of God,” one of the nine official titles of the Pope. Think about it. You only need to be (1) a man and (2) a Catholic to be Pope (yes, even I am technically qualified). I thought you had to be celibate (i.e., unmarried in Church terminology), but that is only a discipline, meaning it is currently a rule (Bishops cannot be married, and the Pope is Bishop of Rome) but can be changed. Peter himself was married. Yet to accept the blessing/cross and step into the shoes of the fisherman (an unofficial title of the Pope), one must accept that you alone are God’s agent in shepherding his most Holy Church and all its people–in fact all people everywhere, Christian or otherwise–to Heaven. That changes everything.

In the coming days we’ll hear from his brothers (‘we wanted to play hide-n-seek, he wanted to play “priest.”‘), his former parochial school teacher (‘he was a quiet, “A” student’), probably even his first girlfriend (he went into seminary instead of high school, so that’s a long-shot prediction). The priests and faithful from his diocese in Peru will weigh in, as will his fellow Augustinians. Some bishops, too, will recall recent dealings with him. It’s all very interesting, especially for me: we share a faith, a region (Chicagoland), a time (1960s-70s), and a persuasion (expatriates). I haven’t discovered whether he’s a fan of the Fighting Irish, yet, but I remain prayerful it is so.

And it’s all irrelevant, because it’s all about Richard Francis Prevost, and he’s Leo XIV now. He’s not managing the appointment of Bishops anymore, or supervising a diocese or an order. He’s the Vicar of Christ. His say is final on all things of faith and morals, at least for Catholics. And his views on any other subjects require the due respect of all Catholics, and demand consideration around the rest of the world. It may be odd for those who don’t believe in such things, but rest assured, Leo XIV does so believe!

What can we say about the man, Richard Francis Prevost? He is of the Augustinian order, named for those religious who follow a set of rules formulated by the great Catholic theologian Saint Augustine of Hippo. I have to laugh when skeptical, non-believing friends deride theologians as “people who argue about how many angels can dance in the head of a pin.” Perhaps they have never read Saint Augustine, who could have (in fact did) dismiss the arguments of people like Dawkins, Atkins, or Hitchens before lunch without breaking a sweat. The Augustinians are known primarily for their teaching and missionary work. So we should expect a man well-read, well-informed, and down-to-earth.

As an expatriate, then Father/Bishop Prevost spent decades outside the United States, primarily in Peru, where he eventually became an Archbishop. He is fluent in at least Spanish and Italian (probably others), in addition to his native Chicagoan (listen for the “flat a” sound). He is very familiar with the developing world and the different set of challenges therein. No one forgets the world in which they grew up, but some experience other worlds, too. As an expat, he is one of those, and he will have a broader perspective as a result.

Others describe him as an excellent manager. Pope Francis chose him, first to head his order, which is spread around the world, then to head a diocese (in Peru), and finally to head the Dicastery (office) of Bishops in Rome. That’s a lot of trust in his management skills, and must have resulted in success, because that trust kept growing. In the last of those jobs, he was one of three individuals (the others being the Pope and the Vatican Secretary of State) who routinely met with all the Catholic Bishops. Not only was that incredibly important in a Conclave where eighty of the voters were there for the first time and needed name-tags to know who was whom, it tell us something more important. Those voting Cardinals knew him, not just as a name, but as someone with whom they had dealt. I guarantee you if his hallway file (rumor mill) was that he was ambitious, or proud, or hard with which to work, they would not have quickly settled on him. Likewise, the Curia (the permanent bureaucracy in the Vatican) knows him and apparently respects him.

Among Catholic pundits, he had a reputation as doctrinally sound, cautious, yet open to the Spirit. He shared Pope Francis’ love for the poor and marginalized, but none of his predecessor’s impromptu manner. That was good enough to place him squarely in the pro-Francis camp, while not antagonizing those who were more theologically conservative. He staked out very stable, very traditional positions on gay marriage, homosexuality in general, gender issues, and the impossibility of woman deacons or priests. That is his record as Bishop, but remember, as Pope Leo XIV he may change, either way. For all the progressive (political) bluster about Pope Francis, he never varied far from traditional Church teaching. Nor can any Pope, really. Media types and opportunistic activists always overstated the significance of things like Pope Francis’ “who am I to judge” comment.

In case I haven’t written that full story before, here it is:

Quoting Pope Francis for “who am I to judge?’ is like quoting FDR as saying “we have to fear fear, itself.” Why? The quote is truncated in a way that is directly opposite of what was said. The original quote came in relation to a question about a then-serving Vatican priest, who had been accused of being involved in a homosexual relationship many years before. Pope Francis said “If a person is gay and seeks God and has good will, who am I to judge?” The phrase “seeks God and has good will” is left out, but it is not a throw-away line. In Catholic teaching, it means aligning oneself with the teaching of the Church fully and completely. In this case, the priest in question was living a celibate life, rejecting a homosexual “lifestyle.” He demonstrated “good will,” and thus the Pope was very doctrinally sound in saying “who am I to judge?” But of course this was very consistent with Catholic teaching (‘hate the sin, not the sinner’) and did not represent any change at all in Catholic doctrine.

How is this for a job description? “Thou art Peter, and upon this rock, I shall build my Church. And the gates of the netherworld shall not prevail against it. I will give you the keys to the kingdom of heaven. Whatever you bind on earth shall be bound in heaven; and whatever you loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven.”

People will pore over Pope Leo XIV’s opening words and actions for clues as to where he intends to lead the Church. He wore traditional Papal garments, not Francis’ humble ones. He first mentioned Christ, always a preferred reference point for Holy Fathers. He repeatedly mentioned pacem (peace), so there’s one theme. He specifically praised Pope Francis and Synodality, the openness of the Church to new forms of governance, so that will continue, albeit possibly with some changes. He mentioned bridge-building, which is de rigeur for a man with the title Pontifex Maximus (Supreme Builder of Bridges). He finished off asking for grace from the Blessed Virgin Mary, completing a full tour of Catholic doctrinal touch points. Omitting any of these things would have been noticeable; including them less so.

Some will also ponder the meaning of the Papal name: Leo XIV. What does that mean? Like so many things, it is best to wait, as he will probably explain why he chose that name. Pope Leo XIII (Pope 1878-1803) was famous for following a divisive Pope Pius IX, and he brought normality and peace to the Church and world. He issued a very foundational encyclical called Rerum Novarum that established Catholic doctrinal support for workers, unions, fair wages, and decent working conditions, yet also established the equally important principal of subsidiarity, the notion that solutions must be enacted by the lowest possible decision-level (one often overlooked by Catholics supporting large government programs). The new “American” Pope chose the same name as a namesake who coined a unique heresy called “Americanism,” which we know today as “cafeteria Catholics” (i.e., choosing which sets of doctrinal rules to obey, or “being a Pope of one’s self”). Who are we to judge? 🙂

Before the “extra omnes” (Latin for “Everybody out” as the Conclave began, and I want to open a new email account with that address), informed observers noted the Church was riven between those who wish to push forward with even more changes “in the spirit of Vatican II” and those who wish to reconsider the ecumenical council against a “hermeneutic of continuity.” If those terms sound confusing, don’t worry, they are Church terms meaning, roughly, theological progressives and conservatives (not to be confused with political ones). But that divide had many cross currents.

Everybody loved Pope Francis’ way of reaching out to the poor, his humanity. His brusque demeanor with priests or Bishops with whom he disagreed? Not so much. Most agreed with opening up the Church to new insights and perspectives, but not those which directly question core (i.e., non-negotiable) tenets of the faith. And no one benefited from doctrine tossed out like quips on airplane flights. For the past twelve years, some who study the Church have sought to discover “a Francis effect,” meaning tangible evidence the Pope’s message was resonating in a way which fostered more, deeper, Catholic faith. It was never found. The Church grew rapidly in the parts of the world with the most conservative/orthodox leaders, even in portions of the United States. While the Pope received plaudits from former Catholics and legacy media (e.g., the New York Times), it never translated to butts-in-the-pews. A recent (anonymous) survey of new Catholic priests in America couldn’t find a single new priest who cited Pope Francis for fostering his vocation, while many still cited former Pope Benedict and Saint Pope John Paul II.

So what would I predict? I think the Conclave electors sought someone who can manage the Vatican, which has serious financial and organizational challenges. That may seem small or petty, but it’s a serious issue, and no one else can do it. I think they wanted someone who could continue Pope Francis’ legacy of welcoming all, while insisting on the Truths of the Catholic Faith as handed down by the Church. It has to be both. I think they wanted a leader who was not just open to new voices, but also heard the voices of his fellow Bishops. I can’t imagine how hard it was to sit in a listening session at the recent Synod, forty years of canonical experience and deep theological reflection behind you, and get lectured by someone in jeans and a t-shirt about what Jesus really meant when he chose men to be his apostles. The Church has a long history of laypeople speaking out, even correcting Popes, but not every lay person is Saint Catherine of Siena! Finally, I think the Cardinals wanted someone who would speak the truth fearlessly, but not extemporaneously. Catholic doctrine is hard enough to teach, harder still to understand, dreadfully challenging to live by. Making it sound less certain is worse for all concerned.

What do I think? The electors got exactly what they asked for. The Holy Spirit is funny that way. We all do well to follow where it leads.

Epilogue (IV/IV)

In part I, I explained why I don’t feel the outrage so many others do. I made it clear that there are many things the Trump administration is doing that I disagree with either in intent or manner, but I don’t share the feeling that the end is near, as so many liberals, progressives, and the media preach. In part II, I covered what the big challenges are facing America today, and in part III, I suggested what those challenges require. It was a daunting list, yet I ended up sounding somewhat optimistic. In this conclusion, I’ll try to explain “why?”

The first cause for optimism is that it’s always better to correctly understand the world you’re in (and the problems thereof). That may seem obvious, but it bears repeating. Back during the Cold War, there were people who insisted the Soviet Union was just misunderstood, they weren’t as evil or ambitious as they seemed. Sometimes, these people were in power in various Western governments. It wasn’t a disaster, but it never went well. Anyway, people who think all will be well when we get to post-Trump are in for a rude awakening. They have missed the point.

That said, many people on both the right and the left are correctly describing how the world has changed. And that means they will be proposing solutions. Take for instance the economy. From the right, Oren Cass and the folks at American Compass have proposals to support families, unions, middle-class workers, and small businesses! On the left, Ezra Klein and Derek Thompson have a fascinating analysis in their new book, Abundance, which highlights how government regulations strangle both productivity and progress. Our leaders should welcome such ideas. I would love to hear that President Trump has invited Klein and Thompson to lead a federal study on which federal regulations to amend/eliminate.

On international relations, foreign leaders are admitting they have neglected military spending for decades, and have to adjust. I had a fascinating exchange on social media with someone defending Belgium as a loyal American ally who simply chose to invest in a better life for its citizens. I asked why that same idea didn’t apply to Americans, and of course got no response. Germany recently signaled a major investment in its military; I’ll withhold judgment until I see the spending turn into real capabilities.The notion of a “global policeman” is an historical oddity, and we need to return to reality. Freedom isn’t free, for anybody.

On international trade, no one can argue Trump hasn’t upended the system. That part is done. It’s very unclear if his administration has the acumen to create a new one. I guarantee if they don’t, they won’t get a second chance in 2028. There will be economic dislocations along the way, whoever eventually develops the new trading system. But the jury is still out, as we don’t even have a full quarter of economic data under Trump’s second term yet. What we can’t do is continue along the path of free-trade-no-matter-what that we were on.

Technology remains an unknown. America has the technological genius to win the AI war, but do we have the political genius to enable, enforce, and exploit it? I don’t see that in either party right now. And the people developing the systems can’t do it alone; remember, FaceBook was going to be a global commons of love and happiness–how did that turn out?

Education reform is a mixed bag, in my opinion. Things like growth in home-schooling and charter schools are only good in that having options is always better; they are not sure things, by any stretch of the imagination. But I hear of school systems resuming testing and standards, banning cell phones, and re-creating challenging placement programs. We’ll need a return of non-college track options, too. At the same time, some schools remain tied to things like the 1619 Project and DEI initiatives, which are educational dead ends. At least the general direction in education is toward more competition, which will expose the fads and frauds.

Government spending is where the outlook is most grim. DOGE has been mainly a stunt, notwithstanding saving $100+ billion. Trimming the federal workforce helps, but the way it’s being done is neither healthy nor precise. Everybody continues to swear all entitlements are off the table, which makes reducing the deficit almost impossible. Meanwhile, the MAGA party swears by Republican tax cuts for all and the Democrats profess “wealth taxes” and “ending corporate welfare,” bogus phrases which have no meaning. The silver lining here is that the threatening storm clouds will not blow away, so we have to face up to cuts eventually. I’ll go so far as to say that the party/leader who commits to addressing the deficit/debt issue with real solutions will win the next Presidential election.

One other reason for optimism is how fast the Trump administration is working when it knows what it wants to do. Look at immigration, which I don’t consider one of the great remaining challenges. Trump was always clear about how he felt on immigration; no one can debate that. We were assured by immigration experts that nothing could be done to stop the masses of people heading up through Central America, and that no one could identify all the undocumented/illegal aliens already in the country, that removing them would destroy the home-building and agricultural sectors, and that most of the people here were vetted and therefore not a threat. We have since learned that none of those “truths” were correct.

Border crossings are down somewhere around ninety percent (the exact numbers are in dispute, not the size of the change). The pipeline of migrants in Central America has reversed and is heading back home. The federal government is (for the first time) using all data at its disposal (including tax data) to identify those illegally in the country. Imagine that. Trump’s audacious (or illegal, the Supreme Court has not ruled) deportations have sent a clear signal that illegal immigration is as dangerous once you reach the United States as it was getting there. And people are realizing that no one could vet these migrants, as their home countries either didn’t share data with the US, or didn’t care.

But like many of the bigger challenges, all of this is being done quickly but impermanently. A future progressive Presidency could undo much of it just as quickly. The administration will need to work with Congress in a bipartisan fashion to enact laws that bring stability to the results already achieved. We need better border security, streamlined immigration proceedings, a new merit-based immigration policy, solutions for “the Dreamers,” elimination of birthright citizenship, reform of temporary refugee rules, and leadership to change international asylum law. That’s quite a menu! I have serious doubts about Trump’s ability to do this, even in immigration, which should be his strong suit. And the same goes for all the challenges above.

When you look at my list of challenges, you can see progress or promise in nearly every item. So the challenges are daunting, but I remain optimistic. One final note, about that Trump guy. I have friends who live-and-die on a steady diet of Trump outrage, and it only outrages them more when anyone else doesn’t join them. I don’t, because he’s just not that important. He is at best a transitional figure, and he seems to instinctively understand some of the issues, even if his solutions are often not well-conceived. If you focus on Trump, you have my sympathy. There are thousands of influencers, media types, and “friends” feeding the obsession. He doesn’t merit all the attention, and you’re missing out on profound things happening in the larger world. One day we will be beyond Trump, that much is certain. In the meantime, we all have choices to make: identify problems and solutions, or resist Trump. I choose the former. If you choose the latter, we’ll meet up again in the post-Trump world.

Renewal or Regression? (III/IV)

This is the third post in a four-part series. This post covers what the possibilities are following that (perhaps) creative destruction.

What will the changed world look like, if we peer intently at it without filtering it through a Trumpian or Resistance lens? Like this:

Geopolitics and the Military. In case you missed it, Uncle Sam walked off the beat as the world’s policeman. It didn’t happen under Trump. We got tired of the beat way back under “W,” then started taking mental health days-off under Obama. It continued under Trump’s first term and Biden’s senescence. During that period, our absence became noticeable, then obvious. Red-lines crossed, invasions met with outrage or “sanctions,” diplomatic insults ignored or endured. None of the Presidents I mentioned are to blame specifically; they each correctly intuited the American people’s view that enough was enough.

Now we are one tough opponent away from having a military humiliation. That won’t mean the end of anything, let alone the good ole US of A. But it’s a bad situation. In the past, we were able to recover quickly (see Pearl Harbor, Kasserine Pass, Pusan perimeter, the battle of Long Island, Bull Run I & II, and so on), but that is not always an option. It takes economic production and national will, two other things in short supply. Our leaders need to be clear-headed about who we are committed to defending, and why. We are not facing a global peer competitor bent on world domination (like the Nazis or the Soviet Union were). China wants to coerce the world toward its preferences, much like the US did (cooperatively) after World War II. The end result would be bad, and it is something we should oppose. But every nation is going to have to pull its own weight. And the US needs to radically restructure its armed forces quickly and efficiently, since we can’t simply throw money we don’t have at the challenge.

Economics & Trade. Economists used to talk about the “rational consumer” making informed choices as the key to understanding the markets and trade. Such economic theorists never stood outside a Best Buy in the wee hours of Black Friday. Economics may be the dismal science, but it is hardly the rational one. Economics is a subset of national security, as we recently relearned. If a country can’t make the things it needs, it may be denied those things when it most urgently needs them (medicines, computer chips, minerals). The US must recover this notion not in order to become autarchic (meeting all our needs alone), but to avoid being at the mercy of competitors, whether friends or enemies.

This will involve upending the free trade system we built. As a person who benefited greatly from the free movement of goods, services, and people, I lament its passing. As a clear-eyed observer of what’s happening, I admit it has to go. That means more border restrictions, tariffs, quotas, and restrictions. It doesn’t mean a senseless rush to impose all such things against all countries at once. Nixon may have pulled off the madmen theory of international politics with respect to bombing North Vietnam, but that doesn’t make it a viable strategy in general.

Things will cost more. Some things will be unavailable. There will be disruptions. There were under the old free-trade system, too. The fallacy of just-in-time delivery was that not everything can be planned for, let alone adjusted to. Some manufacturing will return to America; we’ll never have as many manufacturing jobs as we once did, because we are producing more things with fewer people nowadays. But there will be more opportunities for decent middle-class jobs.

Education. The American educational system has lost its way. Our brightest students do fine, and we heap resources on those who need more/different/extra help. But the vast majority of students in the middle are terribly short-changed. We spend more than most nations (per student) and get worse results. Schools have increasingly added staff for counselling and managing rather than teachers for teaching.

True story: back when the founders were “bringing forth a new nation,” there were very few public schools. The rich hired tutors, and church schools provided the primary source of education. Our early leaders knew that a Republic needs an educated polity, so they developed the notion of free public education. A (very) secondary benefit was shaping the culture of the next generation. Today we seem to have gotten things reversed. Schools spend too much time pushing cultural agendas, and not enough time ensuring basic literacy and numeracy. You don’t need to engage in a culture war while you’re learning to read-n-write (take note, Montgomery County, Maryland). You don’t learn how to deal with a different person by being told how to think about one, you learn by having a friend in your class who is different.

We could all do with a significant clarification of roles with regard to how we educate our youth. The primary role belongs to parents and teachers in local schools. School boards exist to provide the partnership necessary to enforce those roles, not to tell parents to “mind their own business” or tell teachers how to teach. School boards absolutely do decide what to teach; that is their main purpose. They do this by representing the values and desires of the people in the community. It’s not censorship, it’s local control. And it’s okay if things are different in different places. City and State governments provide funding to address imbalances, and establish requirements for accreditation/graduation. The federal government can also provide funding, and should set national educational standards for achievement. Not use that money as a means to micro-manage it.

Taxes, Spending, Regulations. This is where most of us will feel the pain. We’ve been overspending for so long, so much has to be cut, it will affect everyone. There is no single magic solution, a la “tax the rich” or a wealth tax or ending corporate welfare that will bring the federal fiscal books back near balance. They don’t have to balance exactly, they just can’t be out for whack like they have been for forty-six of the past fifty years! Yes, we should raise taxes on the rich, but we’ll need some benefit cuts, too. More programs need to be means-tested.

Take social security for example. There are many terrible memes about it, like the Ronald Reagan quote that Social Security does not add to the deficit. It was true back in 1981, it’s absolutely false today. Or the meme decrying that social security should not be called an “entitlement” because ‘I earned it.’

It’s called an entitlement because that’s a federal legal term meaning the government “has to” pay it. Still want to change the word? And unless you die early, you’ll get more from social security than you paid in (even accounting for your employers contribution AND interest). See what the problem is? If most everybody gets more than they pay in, the only way the system can work is if the population of young workers (who have not yet retired) is always growing larger than the wave of retirees they are supporting. Guess what? It isn’t anymore, and since the number of twenty-somethings in 2045 is already set, it won’t ever be so again soon.

The good news is there are many small fixes which can make the system sound once more. There’s a website you can visit (here), where you can try your hand at fixing the problem, and it doesn’t require throwing granny off the cliff. But as long as we treat all entitlement reform as untouchable, we’ll continue to hurtle toward a very real, very sizable cut within a decade or two.

As to other spending and employee reductions, here’s a simple point DOGE made which has been lost in the partisan battle. DOGE is characterizing everything as fraud/waste/abuse, and the Resistance is highlighting how each cut will hurt. Did the US Agency for International Development (USAID) really spend US $32,000 on an LBGTQ+ comic book in Peru? No, the Resistance tells us, it was the State Department (not USAID), and it was a gay character, not LBGTQ+ (Snopes says so!). But stop and consider this: in a country seriously over-spending (as measured by our deficit), the system approved funding for such things. The system (people and process, both) thought it was no big deal. Maybe because it was small, but this happens all over the government. Maybe they thought it was important, even critically so. But when you claim we don’t need to radically restructure both the people and the process the government uses to spend money, you have to defend these outcomes. Good luck!

Good Luck!

Technology. We are on the brink of an important technological advance. Artificial Intelligence (AI) may prove as revolutionary as the printing press, or merely as important as the personal computer. But it will effect major changes in society, and we don’t know how. We just finished with a small experiment on our own children (smart phones + social media) that has not turned out well in my opinion. We currently let the Communist Party of China have direct access to the ids an egos of our children and young adults (via TikTok), in a way we never would have let the Nazis or the Soviets. The Chinese do not let their own children and young adults access the same info they peddle to ours. And now we are in a technological competition with them for AI supremacy. Did it matter who won the race for the atom bomb? Absolutely for the Nazis, not as much for the Soviets. But do we want to find out what it’s like to come in second? And are we ready in any event?

This may all seem to be bleak and overwhelming. That said, I wouldn’t trade the position of the United States for that of any competitor. Of all the nations/groups involved in this developing new world order, we have the biggest advantages, not least in that we have people on both the left and the right that realize the changes we are experiencing. Denying them, or attributing them to the passing fancies of Donald Trump, are fatal errors. And no, I’m not saying President Trump has the answers. I’m sure someone out there is readying another comment about Trump’s inadequacy or insanity, missing the global forest of challenges for the Trumpian trees.

The Trump administration may have stumbled onto some of the correct policies. They still have to implement them in ways which work. And these policies will require both legislative enactment and sustained commitments well beyond the Trump years. I’ll wrap up my thoughts on that in the final post.

Creative (or just) Destruction? (II/IV)

This is the second post in a four-part series. I’ve been thinking about all the dislocation the Trump administration has wrought, what it means, and what will follow it. Today’s installment is about that dislocation.

Sometimes the world seems to change on a dime. You can look at an event, almost always after the fact, and say, “yup, that’s where everything changed.” Take the assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914. New technologies were already revolutionizing travel and the spread of information. Global trade was booming. The shifting alliance system of Europe, developed after the shock of Napoleon’s reign in the early nineteenth century, had generally kept the peace in Europe and even among the many world-wide colonies for a century. That assassination triggered World War I, destroyed several empires, began the deconstruction of colonialism, undid international trade, and set the table for a far more destructive and disruptive sequel, World War II.

It didn’t happen all at once. There was a month of build-up after the assassination, and of course several years of war and decades of tumult, but it all tied directly back to the gunshot at the carriage in Sarajevo.

Many might suspect the terrorist attack on 9/11 was another such event. It’s too early to tell, but did the world change that day, or in the twenty-some years since? The US got involved in foreign wars: some justified, some not. People all over the world had to adjust to tightened security at airports. Islam received greater attention concerning its relationship with modernity. Oh, it was traumatic, especially to those who suffered a loss or were in the targeted cities. But the world remained remarkably similar. And it was that world which is now fundamentally changing.

Other times the entire world changes fundamentally but slowly. China retreated inward and disappeared from the world over a few centuries at the end of the first millennium. The United Kingdom took forty years or so to understand, address, and finally solve “the German Question.” Which only opened the door to “the Soviet Problem” the US had to understand, address, and finally solve after forty-five years. We appear to be in one of the those cycles of history, where things are changing fundamentally, but slowly.

The changes in the international situation can be neatly summed up: we have returned to a multi-polar world. For a period between 1989 (the collapse of the Soviet Union) and perhaps 2008 (the Great Recession), the US was the sole remaining superpower. It could throw its unchallenged weight around financially, militarily, morally and politically. However, throughout that period, China and the European Union (EU) were growing more economically resilient and resistant to US leadership. For the EU, it was arguing at the margins of the international free-trade order which had benefited both the EU and the US. For China, it was using that order to undermine the US and the order itself. Western leaders believed if they invited China to play by the rules, the benefits of global free trade would liberalize the Communist regime. The Chinese believed they could rig the game, make the West dependent on them, and emerge as a global power. Guess who was right?

Meanwhile, the US military edge dulled and atrophied. Our military remains dominant, but too small and perhaps too centered on legacy capabilities for modern warfare. It is a potent force, but brittle, and not resourced for longer engagements, which is a disastrous weakness when confronting powers that are. I’ll spare you the details on military capabilities, but if you even look at modern combat in Ukraine, you see radically different capabilities. Our military can master these new requirements, but will they be prepared?

Not to mention the erosion of American will. America’s willpower was always the secret weapon of American success. We may not win at first, but we persevere and win in the end, whether its battle, business, or sports. We won early in Afghanistan, but couldn’t stay the course long enough to accomplish our enlarged goals of creating a liberal democracy in the Hindu Kush. Mind you, that was a terrible case of mission creep, but it’s not like we didn’t know how (see Germany, Korea, Japan, etc) or have the resources. And it’s not that the cost in lives was too high: in the years before President Trump negotiated our withdrawal, and President Biden comically and criminally executed it, we lost more soldiers in training accidents annually than in Afghanistan! It took almost fifty years for South Korea to become a developed democracy. We simply lost the ability to persevere.

On the home front, the economic deals we made furthering free trade undermined the American dream for millions of the factory-working middle class. Our political parties took turns reducing taxes and increasing benefits, leading to sky-rocketing deficits and national debt. Any attempt to rein in spending met with dire predictions of poverty for the most vulnerable, or economic ruin for the most productive. Social Security is now drawing down its reserves (the ill-fated “lock box”), meaning we’re paying today dollars to redeem those bonds, and interest on the national debt will soon be the biggest single line item in the federal budget.

The administrative state has gone completely out of control. In the early 1990s, the code of federal regulations contained around 60,000 pages. Today it’s close to 200,000. Even small changes in federal policies or practices run into mind-numbing requirements, such that an administration can easily add to them, but it is almost powerless to remove them. Even Progressives have come to realize that America is drowning in a mass of procedural red tape that prohibits or delays everything from tiny houses to bridges to business start-ups. And we did this entirely to ourselves.

Speaking of self-sabotage, is there anybody who still doesn’t realize our educational system is expensive, inefficient, and produces poor results? While this was largely an academic (sorry for the pun) argument in the past, the pandemic laid it bare: Unions arguing for no school, school systems wasting billions while not recovering lost learning, absenteeism at record rates. Not to mention universities producing “graduates” who can’t write a single coherent page.

At the same time, technology is racing along, changing at a fairly rapid pace. Artificial Intelligence may change everything . . . or it may not. But it will change many things, and only those countries, businesses, and people who are prepared will prosper (thus has it always been). Does the United States I have described sound like a country that is prepared to exploit the change?

Fixing any one of these (trade, military force, federal spending, education, or new technology) would be a herculean undertaking. All at once? Improbable, but that is where we are. What it calls for is drastic, fundamental change in our approach to the challenges. Practically starting over. Look at global trade, for example. Who wants to overturn the system? Nobody. It’s been good for the EU, China, developing nations, the Davos crowd, the World Bank and International Monetary Fund (IMF), even for some in the United States. But it’s not working the way we want, which means we either have to live with it, or force it to change. That is not done lightly or easily, as Trump’s tariff wars demonstrate.

There’s the one name I haven’t mentioned previously: Trump. Fans and ‘phobes both focus on him (he loves it, by the way), but he’s a symptom of the change, not its cause, and probably not its solution. One thing Mr. Trump has always been very good at is identifying problems, and he called out many of these before he ran for office the first time. I often see social media posts lamenting, “how could the working class fall for this rich phony?” I usually respond the same way: because he was the only one correctly identifying the problems the working class was experiencing. Will he fix them? I have my doubts, but the voters who support him know there is a better chance at fixing the problems when you know what they are, then if you don’t have a clue. Which was the case of the alternatives.

The case for fundamental change is pretty clear. The alternative is to avoid the pain and continue down the path to national insolvency and international irrelevance. But there are few easy fixes, and even when there are some, a few sacred oxen–conservative and progressive– will need to be gored. I am not saying the dislocation the Trump administration is causing is necessarily the right way; rather, you shouldn’t object to it simply because it is dislocation (or because it is Trump’s). We are all going to have to get used to some discomfort (ideological or economic) on the way to recovery.

Part III will talk about that path forward.