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Don’t Feed the Trolls!

I have tried politely suggesting people think before texting/tweeting/etc. I have tried mildly poking fun at social media inaccuracies, or gently correcting them. I have tried appealing to people’s humanity, and even pointed out the discrepancy between demanding truth and posting lies. I guess it’s time for a different tack.

The amount of disinformation or just plain stupidity in social media is reaching some unequaled crescendo. It’s not just the politicians, who truth be told, have always shaded the truth, known as spin. Next it spread to the news media and talking heads, who carefully maintained an air of credibility and non-partisanship while clearly favoring one side or the other. Now it’s further democratized to the general public, where people known as trolls take it to a whole new level.

Who or what are trolls? They have always been with us, but in bygone days they were easier to avoid or shame, which regulated their behavior. Trolls are people who simply enjoy causing other people to get angry, especially people with whom they disagree politically or culturally. You might have had a family troll, your distant cousin or uncle who always showed up at family gatherings and brought up some contentious issue or piece of family history, ensuring a loud argument which could never be resolved. He did it because it was his idea of fun. Or she did it because it made her the center of attention. The reason is irrelevant in the end. It was a fundamentally anti-social behavior. But you could avoid being around that troll, or someone more powerful or influential in the family could warn them to STFU (Latin for “please don’t say that”).

Now they’re much harder to avoid. The algorithms which control social media notice who your trolls are, and feed them to you to get a reaction (remember, that’s how they win advertising dollars, by the amount of time and interaction you spend on their media). It’s designed to get you to interact with the trolls, or in internet jargon, “feed the trolls.” Now my wise friends are tut-tutting (love that phrase), “Pat, you know we’re wise to the world, and we would never feed the trolls.” And that may be true. Now you’ve become the trolls!

Yes, I said it, but this is an intervention. Too many of my wise, seasoned, and very lovable internet friends have become trolls. No, they’re not as bad as those family trolls, who were professional psychopaths. Rather, my friends are just practicing occasional troll behavior, which in some ways is more concerning. Other people quickly learn to ignore professional trolls, but when an average upstanding citizen does it, they take others in, too. Because your friends believe you would never troll them.

It’s not all my friends’ fault. Yes, our leaders set a bad example, but I remind that that has always been the case (read about the public lying between Jefferson and Adams, for Heaven’s sake!). And opinion leaders do it too. Fox News is full of it, in all senses of the phrase. Rachel Maddow is a Troll Queen who came to prominence promising to uncover Trump as a Russian mole. . . still waiting on that. These people aren’t stupid, they are businesses or entertainers who knows that outrageous claims=dollars in their pocket. And they won’t stop. But you can.

What evidence shall I present? To avoid unnecessarily calling friends out, I won’t be too specific. But time and again I see people either sharing sources they should know better, or posting garbage that a millisecond fact check would show as wrong. I’m not talking about sharing a New York Times editorial about whether tariffs help or hurt a nation’s economy: that’s arguable, and have at it. I’m talking about claiming Elon Musk is a grifter getting rich off insider government contracts. Or Canada is a fentanyl threat. Or government employees must liquidate Thrift Savings Program accounts to avoid Trump seizing them. Or all foreign aid is either fraud, waste, or abuse. Or the 2024 federal voting results were hacked. Or freeze your credit because DOGE has your data. Stop it already.

In case you’ve missed the news lately, it’s easy to doctor a picture, so any incriminating photo that looks absolutely incredible and you’ve never sent it before? It’s probably fake. Try using Google Lens (formerly Google reverse image search), which will tell you if a photo is AI-generated. Is it a text/tweet? Does it have a date/time stamp? can you access the account and check? Yes, yes, you can, if you care about the truth.

Listen, I’m not saying you can’t express your opinions. Many times when friends share something, I ask them to restate, in their own words, how they feel, and that comes across more reasonable and honest. Or I ask them to check what they are about to share: just type the first line in with the word “hoax” added, and see what Señor Google has to say. When you just share something because you know it’s going to “pwn the libs/Maga crowd,” what you’re really saying is “I don’t care about the truth. I don’t care about my social media friends. I don’t even care if anyone does something stupid because of what I posted.” That, mis amigos, is quite anti-social behavior. Troll-like.

Even worse (I know, it’s possible!), while troll-like behavior is making your “friends” dumber, it’s making you dumber, too. See, when you post something without fact-checking, or just because it makes you feel good to denigrate somebody else, that All-Seeing Eye (the algorithm) says, “hey, John Doe falls for this sh!t. Feed him more!” See, the algorithm doesn’t care about right and wrong, so if you choose to ignore what’s correct or real, it will, too. And you get a steady diet of social media stool. Enjoy!

Way back when, the comedian Jeff Foxworthy had a routine which always ended with the punchline, “here’s your sign.” The set-up was about the fact that stupid people should wear a sign indicating their status (stupid) so you wouldn’t be surprised when their stupidity showed up. It may seem a little harsh, but it was an effective joke routine, and the material to set it up was almost endless.

Next time you’re about to troll, stop, think twice, and remember; Here’s your sign!

Diagnosing Medicaid Dysfunction

After the passage of President Trump’s “One, Big Beautiful Bill” (its literal title, hereafter OBBB), you no doubt have seen some fairly apocalyptic predictions about Medicaid. Keep in mind that these are all predictions. What can we say factually about the program and what the OBBB says about it?

What is Medicaid? Formally Title XIX of the Social Security Act of 1965, Medicaid is a federal-state partnership that provides medical assistance to low-income individuals and families who cannot afford private health insurance. I bolded the key terms. The federal government provides most of the funds (two-thirds) and dictates who always qualifies and what care must be covered. The states provide the rest of the funding and administer the program (with significant variance between the states). It was designed to provide health care to the poorest and neediest: a truly charitable endeavor. In 1965, about 2% of Americans were covered by Medicaid; today it is around 20%. Are there ten times more poor and needy today? Of course not. The change in enrollment is driven by increasing eligibility over time. This chart details some of the changes:

Form the 1970s through 2008, the number of Americans enrolled in Medicaid was driven by population increases (200 million to 300 million approximately) and by more inclusive rules (for example, greater eligibility for women, children, and people with disabilities). The biggest change begins in 2010, when President Obama signed into the law the Affordable Care Act (ACA in the chart, hereafter “Obamacare”).

This law greatly decreased the number of those uninsured by making health insurance mandatory (the personal insurance mandate, backed by a tax penalty), by offering Obamacare marketplaces where insurance could be purchased with a means-tested federal government subsidy, and by increasing eligibility for Medicaid. Most people don’t realize that in the great debate over Obamacare (for example, the personal mandate was ruled constitutional by the US Supreme Court, but effectively rescinded by the Trump administration in 2017 when the tax penalty was set to zero), most of the gains in insurance coverage were due to the simple increase in eligibility in Medicaid (which didn’t require any grand new law).

In the chart, Medicaid enrollment sharply increases after 2008, going from about 40 million to over 90 million at peak. This was also accelerated by a pandemic-era (2020) legal change, called continuous enrollment, which required states to leave persons receiving Medicaid on the rolls whether they still qualified or not. The point here was to avoid cutting people off from their only health insurance during a pandemic. Medicaid enrollment currently stands at around 80 million, after continuous enrollment was cancelled in 2023. The point here is that 15 million people were removed from Medicaid under the Biden administration, not because the government is cruel, but because they were not eligible, under the law.

While most of Medicaid funding goes for poor people over 65 years old and those disabled, the fastest growing segment of Medicaid enrollees is (non-disabled) adult men, age 18-40 who are eligible under the relaxed Obamacare income rules rules. The second fastest-growing group is children, oftentimes children of adults eligible for Medicaid. The federal cost of Medicaid has skyrocketed: from US$333B before Obamacare to US$860B in 2023.

Now to the OBBB. It:

Requires able-bodied adults aged 19-64, who are enrolled in Medicaid through the Affordable Care Act’s expansion, to work/volunteer/participate in other approved activities for at least 80 hours per month to maintain their coverage.
Restricts state provider-tax arrangements. This sounds obscure, and it is, but some states taxed medical providers, then charged the federal government too, in effect “laundering” federal resources for state priorities that otherwise would be prohibited. California, for example, used the money to provide health insurance for illegal aliens/undocumented persons. It wasn’t technically illegal, but it most specifically is, now.
Eliminates certain recent increases in federal funding to states to encourage them to increase Medicaid eligibility, and increases eligibility checks from once every year to once every six months.
Denies eligibility to non-citizens, some lawful permanent residents, and refugees.
That’s it. Notice there is no change to eligibility for pregnant women, poor single parents, the disabled, or any other groups.

There are endless estimates about how much money will be “cut/saved,” how many people will be dis-enrolled, how many people will die. It is important to note that all of these estimates are, in fact, just estimates. Estimates of how people will respond to Medicaid and other changes in law have been poor, at best. When the Trump administration eliminated the personal mandate, the Congressional Budget Office (CBO) estimated 15 million people (healthy young folks who didn’t care to have any insurance anyway) would quit; they didn’t quit, at all. Now CBO estimates between 10 and 15 million will lose coverage. Are they right this time? No one knows.

Look at the facts of Medicaid coverage above, and the OBBB provisions. Ask yourself these questions:

Should Medicaid be a program for the poorest and neediest, or a mini-form of universal medical coverage?
Should working-age men with no disabilities be required to work/volunteer 20 hours a week in order to have government-provided health coverage?
Should non-citizens have the same healthcare coverage as poor/needy Americans?
Should states be permitted to use federal resources for programs not authorized by federal rules?
If the estimated 15 million loss in enrollees under the Trump administration bothers you, how do you feel about the 15 million actually dis-enrolled under the Biden administration?
How much of the increase in Medicaid enrollment and spending is consistent with the program’s intent? and finally,
How much are you willing to pay for all of this? Before you toss out “what about ________?” naming another budget item you would rather cut, look at this chart of current federal appropriations. If you can’t cut Social Security, Medicare, or Interest on the debt, the remaining options are limited!

Don’t engage with the headlines designed to enrage you; think! I am not saying cuts to Medicaid are a great idea, but neither are they catastrophic. If you want to join in and debate the topic, first learn something about it. Or at least something more than “people will die” or “what about the children?”

The Two-State Solution: tried & failed

The Two-State Solution is the holy grail of Mideast politics: a way to solve the unending Arab-Israeli conflict by creating a “Palestinian”* state aside the existing Jewish state of Israel. It was the original UN plan for the partition of the region, but was rejected by the Arab countries and peoples. That was only the first time it failed. There were several other attempts, and every time the sides got close, extremists intervened (Jewish extremists assassinated their Prime Minister, Arab extremists provoked widespread violence) to undermine progress.

Despite this long history, western politicians and experts continue to insist the Two-State Solution is the only way to achieve peace. Even after the October 7th terrorist attack, some people continue to support the notion. While Israel is closely divided on politics in pro- and anti-Netanyahu camps, almost nobody there favors a Two-State Solution now. Let me provide an analogy to which Americans can relate.

For our hypothetical situation, let’s change the events of 9/11 to more closely resemble that of 10/7. Imagine a group of highly-organized, Native American terrorists working across several reservations staged the attack. They took down one of the twin towers with a plane and occupied other buildings. During the ensuing stand-off, they filmed hostages begging for their lives before cutting their throats. Eventually, American military units stormed the buildings, but some terrorists escaped with hostages, returning to the reservations.

Then imagine people citing the long history of American mistreatment of Native Americans, justifying the attacks. Accepting the progressive critique of how “Indians” were treated (I don’t, but . . .), it easily surpasses anything the Jews have done to the Palestinians. After all, the Native population in America is a tiny percentage of what it once was, while the Palestinian population has grown five-fold since 1948. (Note: Next time someone says Gaza and the West Bank are prisons or concentration camps, ask them when has anybody ever seen a concentration camp which had a natural population increase of 500%?) Now imagine even more people, especially people outside the United States, calling on America to set the reservations free as independent nations. How would Americans feel about this “Two-State Solution”? I’m inclined to think we might have seen the third use of nuclear weapons, myself.

In a previous post (Gaza Delenda Est), I called for eliminating Hamas and removing the Palestinian people from Gaza (remember, you heard it first here!). Many of my astute friends pointed out the extreme challenges to this approach– which I acknowledge–and those challenges remain. I will note that the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) have done much (but not all) of the required military work, and both Prime Minister Netanyahu and President Trump had mooted the same idea (removing the Palestinians). I suggest the Overton window (a concept that says the range of acceptable opinion on anything is a variable which can be moved) has changed.

But none of that addresses the larger problem of Palestinian statehood. There has never been a real Palestinian state, and now there never will be. Nobody wants the Palestinian people. When the Romans exiled the Jews from their homeland, the Jews became wildly successful expats throughout the empire (much to their eventual chagrin, as it made them convenient scapegoats, too). When the Palestinians suffered their Nakba (“catastrophe”), or exile, they became a corrosive force everywhere they went. The Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) went to Lebanon, upset its delicate ethnic and religious balance, and Beirut went from being the “Paris of the Mideast” to a poster-child for desolation. The PLO then moved to Tunisia and created more havoc. Palestinian refugees went to Jordan and almost overthrew the monarchy. They went to Egypt and had to be forcibly suppressed. And they stayed in Israeli-occupied areas and fought, and fought, and fought.

Worst of all, they gave control of Gaza to Hamas, a move which Israel tacitly accepted, a major mistake by Netanyahu. He thought Hamas was happy to be perfromative against Israel, launching some missiles, conducting some raids, living the good life while corrupting UN aid and building tunnels that no Palestinian civilian could ever use as bomb shelters. Netanyahu and the IDF focused on Iran and Hezbollah, which is why the October 7th attack was such a success (and why the war with Iran is, too). But most importantly, Gaza under Hamas was a precursor: the Palestinians had, for all intents and purposes, a state. When they did, they turned it into a corrupt terrorist base. Where is the evidence that would ever change?

Israel cannot accept incorporating the West Bank, because to do so would very soon make Jews a minority in Israel. They can’t go on forever as an occupying power either. Eventually they will have to grant some successor regime in the West Bank limited autonomy. Such a regime will by necessity need to be not only demilitarized, but completely disarmed., and it will (also of necessity) exist at the sufferance of Israel. It will not be a normal state, because the people have not demonstrated any ability to act as one. Yes, they’ll vote for their leaders, create their own internal rules, and police themselves. No, they won’t vote in the United Nations, conduct foreign policy, or have any authority over the Jews who live amongst them (in some cases) or surround them.

Every act of violence, every new bit of evidence of the corruption and terror Hamas wrought, re-sets the timeline for eventual peace. And only after a prolonged period of peace is the prospect of a Palestinian mini-state even a possibility. Few people reading this (even the youngest) will ever live to see it, and it will only happen when those same Palestinians give up their dreams of reclaiming the country from the Jews.

Palestinians had a state for moments in 1948; they launched an invasion and lost it. They had a territory in 1994, and used it for corruption and terrorism (two intifadas). They had an enclave (Gaza) which freely elected a terrorist organization. How many times does the Two State Solution have to fail?

*I choose to initially refer to the terms Palestine/Palestinian within quotations marks to denote my belief using such terms denotes a reality that does not exist. The people living there are, and always have been in modern times, Arabs. I only use the marks the first time in any blog, to make the point, and afterwards use without further comment. I believe any nation should be able to determine how they are labelled. People from the United States are “Americans,” not United States-ians, because we choose to be called Americans.

Book Report: Mexico, Biography of Power

When we bought out current house lakeside, it came fully furnished, complete with a few books on the mantelpiece. One of these was a ponderous tome of 871 small-print pages, in English, with the title “Mexico, Biography of Power.” The work of Enrique Krauze, a famous Mexican historian and social commentator, it promised “a history of Mexico from 1810 to 1996.” As someone who loves history and wanted to learn more about my expat home, it beckoned. As a “busy” expat retiree with nothing to do but travel, visit family and friends, it daunted (me). This wasn’t casual summer reading. I like to take books along when we go on cruises, but this one would take up more than half of my carry-on! So I delayed diving in for a year or two, the work gathering dust in the space on my bookcase for things-not-yet-read.

Facing a two-week transatlantic cruise this year, I knew the time was ripe, so I dug into the first few chapters, then purchased an Ebook version for my Kindle, allowing me to continue reading without giving up essential cruise swimwear. As it was, I was able to read all through our travels in Europe and still have the last few chapters to finish with the hardback when we returned.

Krauze once opined that “all history is not biography, but without biography there is no history.” Mexico is a point in this thesis, in that its history is one of a series of strong men (until oh-so-recently, no woman had come near wearing the Presidential sash) personally imposing their views on the nation and its story, for good or ill. His work progresses from the War of Independence through the very end of the single-party state under the PRI, Partido Revolucionario Institucional, although when the book was completed the author was unaware that outcome was pending.

One of the themes of the book is the inescapable rise of a singular leader throughout Mexican history, which Krauze suggests is a legacy of both the tlatoani history of the Mexica (Aztecs) and the caciques of the Spanish crown. Eventually there arises a strong man to provide leadership and perhaps authoritarianism. While this parade of “great” men may seem quite common as a parallel to American readers and history, in Mexico there were significant differences. Without the famous “check & balances” of the American Republic, Mexico veers ever more so towards an all-powerful Presidente. And while violence is a common theme in both country’s stories, in Mexico the violence is consuming. So many of the contestants for leadership are assassinated, exiled, betrayed by friends, or killed while under arrest that the few who survive to a natural death are indeed exceptions to the rule.

After the multi-decade span of the Porfiriata (a dictatorship under Porfiro Diaz), these “great” men eventually settle on only one limit to their power: a single, six-year term of office called the sexenio. Their recompense is “el dedazo” (the big finger), whereby they “point” or select their successor, who is then (of course) elected. While this process developed under the PRI, it seems to be reviving under the current leadership.

Another theme is the gradual emergence of the Mexican raice, or race. In Krauze’s telling, the War of Independence is a revolt of the Criollos (Spaniards born in New Spain) against the Peninsulares (Spaniards born in Spain, living in New Spain). The nineteenth century invasions by the United States and France cement the rise of the mestizo (mixed race) segment of the population under the leadership of Benito Juarez, the first Presidente of indigenous origin. The Mexican Revolution was a final, full extension of recognition of all people, including the still extant indigenous tribes, as Mexican. This notion of a developing racial consciousness, albeit not based on skin color but ancestry, is only possible because while the Spanish conquest abused the indigenous peoples and discriminated against the mixed races, they eventually integrated all, unlike the North American model, which marginalized and virtually eliminated Native Americans.

This book also explained a historical dichotomy that had long troubled me: how was the Mexican revolution, which happened coincident with Russia’s and featured so many “socialist” ideas, not considered “Communist?” Mexico’s unique brand of institutional revolution does indeed parallel Moscow’s: single powerful leaders, a single-party state, expropriation of private property, open suppression of the Church, the creation of mega (and mega-corrupt) public utilities and sweeping public entitlements. But each of these grew out of home-grown concepts of the Mexican experience, neither Marx nor Lenin. There were Communist movements in Mexico, but they were as suppressed as any other party or foreign entity. Mexico developed its singular notion of non-intervention, which left it on the sidelines of the Cold War (and almost World War II), and while there developed a strange affection between Cuba and Mexico, much of it was based on the (misguided) hope Castro would turn out to be more nationalist than Communist.

One final very interesting point is the fact Krauze’s book was published just before Mexico developed into a true, multi-party democracy. Still, the tumultuous period of the early twentieth century eventually leads to Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, (AMLO), the most recent “great” man who was first denied by the powers that be, then rose to destroy the PRI, only to replace it with his Morena party, which now controls the Congress, the Presidency, and the courts. Enrique Krauze, who is still alive and commenting on Mexico, has noted the consistency of recent history with his original thesis.

While this work is hardly a casual read, it rewards those with patience to persevere. Krauze brings coherence to the many revolts, wars, and violence that permeate Mexican history, and his careful attention to each succeeding leader makes the parade of unfamiliar (to me) names intelligible. His is a sympathetic take on Mexico, stressing the importance of “the revolution” as a living concept that guides leaders even today.

What Just Happened: California Dreamin’

You would be forgiven if you caught the wrong inference from my title. Two things just happened in California. One was the end of an era, meaning things will never be the same ’til I die; God only knows the other was much ado about nothing. Let’s talk about the second one.

A week ago Friday, the Trump administration ordered ICE agents to conduct immigration raids in California. This was indeed a provocation. Various governors and mayors have challenged the federal government on immigration enforcement, refused to cooperate (well within their rights), and said they would resist such raids. The raids were also completely within the legal bounds of what ICE is authorized to do. These two facts are inarguable, wouldn’t it be nice if we could keep both in mind at the same time?

Obama, the so-called “Deporter in Chief”

Not only are these raids completely legal, they are routine. They got around under Clinton, Bush, and Obama. The main differences were: (1) the previous Presidents insisted those being rounded up were either (a) criminals, or (b) recent arrivals (such is the law on “removals” as they are called in legal circles) and (2) the ICE agents were alone (without other federal or state assistance) and unmasked.

The Trump administration argues it is prioritizing the same groups, but also detaining any incidental illegal immigrants it discovers during the raids. As to ICE and masking, understand this: ICE agents were not targeted under the previous administrations (if you doubt they are targeted today, search on social media and you’ll find groups dedicated to this mission. I won’t provide links because what they’re doing is illegal.). And back when most state and local law enforcement organizations cooperated with ICE, there was less need for raids, as ICE simply contacted the local authorities and picked up criminal illegal aliens, or recent arrivals who had been arrested for some other crime, to deport them. The recent (last ten years) move to stop local law enforcement cooperation necessitates raids. Funny how that works.

Another difference is how the press and immigration activists described the efforts. Back then, the press took pains to note the good vibrations in the government’s position that it was acting within the laws, and that sometimes entire families had to be deported under the law. Activists were as adamant then as now, stating that everything being done was immoral and illegal; they won few if any cases, but more importantly, they did not encourage interference with federal law enforcement operations. Now they do. They just weren’t made for these times.

As soon as the ICE raids began, groups gathered to interfere. Some of their actions were peaceful protests. Others committed direct interference. As news of the detentions spread, the protests grew. But this was not widespread. Look at a map of the disturbances: you have to be in very specific places to see what’s happening; most angelenos went about their daily business unaffected. Contra President Trump, things were not out of control; this was not the Sloop John B!

But look again at that map. Where were the hotspots? Centered on federal facilities which protesters associated with ICE or detentions. The contention that all was well and under control (from mayor Bass and governor Newsom) was just as contrived. They are welcome to voice their opinions, but the security of federal facilities is the federal government’s–and specifically the President’s–decision. He called out the California National Guard.

Governor Newsom filed suit alleging this act was illegal; his request for an emergency injunction was immediately denied, and while the case will take longer to adjudicate, even if he wins, it will probably be on the technicality that President Trump used the wrong law to enact his deployment (there are two). Did Trump need to call out the National Guard? Probably not, but it was not outrageous to do so, and completely within his authority. The burning cars on the streets weren’t just fun, fun, fun, they settled that argument. As the violence continued, Mayor Bass instituted a local curfew in those areas, which seems to undermine her contention “all was under control.” If everything is calm, there is little need for a dusk-to-dawn curfew in an urban environment.

LAPD has everything under control, at least while they stay under the bridge. Square the peaceful protest with the piles of rocks and damaged police vehicles

The National Guard (and soon Marines) number around four thousand troops. They are guarding those same federal buildings. Some officials have suggested troops will accompany ICE on raids, too, but that is not confirmed. Why isn’t the LAPD providing security for ICE on raids? Normally, local law enforcement would create a perimeter for federal law enforcement operations. But local law enforcement can’t be requested, both because they are forbidden to assist ICE in raids, and if ICE notified them of an impending target, there is a certainty the raid target would get notified, too. Oddly enough, the laws and policies stating no support for ICE do not supersede police requests for emergency assistance, so once riots break out, ICE can call on LAPD (“Help me, Ronda!”) to reestablish order. Read that sentence twice: yes, that’s our moral high ground–let the riot start, then suppress it, as long as you don’t help ICE in the first place. Most of the violence and arrests have been between protesters and local law enforcement, not ICE nor the Guard.

LAPD and associated state and local law enforcement hundreds of arrests for criminal trespass, violence, public disturbance, arson, looting, and even attempted murder. That might be a normal Friday night in Compton, but still. The governor’s and mayor’s assurances to “Don’t worry, (ICE) Barbie” didn’t harmonize, let alone reassure.

That’s where things stand as I write this blog. Did President Trump go beyond what he said he would do in his campaign? Not at all. He promised to begin mass deportations, starting with the “worst of the worst” but proceeding to anyone in the country. Secretary of Homeland Security Noem has a running series of commercials encouraging all people in the country illegally to self-deport, even with federal government assistance, and assuring them eventually they will be deported one way or another. Some people may hate this policy, but it was no secret; he was true to his school, or at least his campaign promise.

Did Trump grandstand to stick it to California Governor Newsom? Of course. He probably counted on an overreaction, and got exactly what he wanted: an excuse to send in first the National Guard, then the Marines. For his part, Newsom hoped to re-fire his flailing Presidential hopes by going all in, calling this “the beginning of the end for American democracy.” Those Guard soldiers and Marines can barely occupy a few square blocks: hardly any Army of occupation.

Oh, I mentioned two notable things happened in California. The truly memorable one was the passing of Brian Wilson, the leader and creative genius behind the Beach Boys. Some of you may have caught their famous song titles sprinkled throughout the post (links included to their songs; take a listen). I thought it especially appropriate, as the Beach Boys wrote upbeat songs with surprisingly deep lyrics about life, at a time most Americans thought the country was tearing itself apart. You couldn’t listen to their amazing harmonies (bereft of that scourge of modern music, AutoTune!) and not be impressed (so said the Beatles!), and perhaps for a minute recognize that real beauty is immortal, and transcends the petty politics of the day. A good reminder, a better lesson, and a most positive note.

Thoughts on travel (2025)

Musings, observations, and other half-completed thoughts that occurred to me as we took a transatlantic cruise (Miami-Barcelona), stayed in Andalusia and Alicante (Spain), then briefly toured Rome on the way home (via London and Los Angeles).

I have no idea what this warrior is supposed to be doing; Spear-throwing?

The “tourists go home” movement is mostly theater. We visited the Canary Islands, Barcelona, and Sevilla, three hotbeds of protest against foreign tourists in general and apartment-buying foreigners specifically (we are both). We saw none of it. There are occasional protest events, but they’re scheduled and conducted for the cameras and local politics (this Sunday’s protests are an example). It’s not that there isn’t a real issue: lack of affordable housing is very real, as is over-tourism. The first is primarily a problem because Spain’s socialist government hasn’t tried very hard to increase home/apartment construction since their economy imploded back in 2008. Now they have a huge backlog, and too much demand, not enough supply. And the other part is Spanish property owners changing their rental units to tourist rentals. Who wants to rent to your fellow Spaniards when they can invoke unwise renter protections and live rent-free for years while you try to evict them? Whose problem is that? The tourists? Foreign owners represent a single-digit percentage of Spanish properties. And everybody knows that Spain is riding an economic wave right now at least partly fueled by tourism. So expect a lot of press noise and political posturing, but just love from those you meet on the street.
I’ve complained every year in these posts about the growing slovenliness of travelers in general, i.e, adopting American-casual as appropriate attire. It’s official. In the Year of Our Lord 2025, you can no longer spot an American using the usual dead-giveaways (until one opens his mouth). Baseball caps are ubiquitous on men of all ages. Shorts, too. Women in workout leotards. Both sexes with oddly-named collegiate attire (“Carolina U.” in purple?) or English slang prints (sometimes quite offensive, but I guess not if you’re not primarily an English-speaker). Europeans still get dressed up for things, but if they’re just walking down for a cappuccino and a croissant, they’ll look like they might be headed to Mickey D’s!
Modern technology has pretty much ended one’s ability to get really lost. GPS is always “watching you, watching you” as Hall & Oates sang. Google has mapped the entire planet, then photographed its streets, too. I’ve come to rely on Google for locations and times of operations for local businesses, especially bars, cafes, and restaurants. And it’s been pretty accurate in major cities. But we like to get out and about, to small cities, towns, and even villages. And there, the days and hours of operation, even whether the business is still in business, are all quite lacking. The businesses themselves don’t keep the data updated, and the locals who frequent them already know. So remember, Google may get you to that little bit of heaven cafe you seek, but whether it’s open or not? Only heaven knows!

Always the Commander; he needed guidance!

There is no need to pretend you’re a Canadian, eh! Europeans don’t generally bring up politics with strangers. We met many locals, in taxis, on tours, in cafes, and we were never shy about being Americans. Of course we had two advantages: speaking Spanish and being able to say we live in Mexico, which everybody finds endlessly fascinating, so there’s no need to talk about US politics. While Americans seem to enjoy immediately picking red and blue sides, other countries don’t. So if you don’t shove it (your MAGA-hate or -hat) in a local’s face, nobody else will care, either.
Transatlantic cruises are a real alternative to red-eye flights to Europe. You can scale your costs to your budget (inside cabin/no frills, balcony with drinks package, sweet suite) compared to economy/premium economy/first class airfare. Yes, you need to get back, eventually. But you do buy 10-14 days of leisure, a few ports-of-call, and minimized jet lag. For those with the luxury of time, it is a very attractive alternative. Caveats: don’t try to discover whether you like ocean cruises on a transatlantic one. The Sargasso Sea is no place to learn you have a landlubbers stomach (although they’ll have plenty of meds on board if you do). Do research the various lines, as their offerings are very different and aimed at different crowds. Transatlantic cruises will generally feature an older, more well-off clientele, that is, people who have the time (most importantly) to spend. But in general transatlantic cruises are less pricey (per day) than other cruises, because they are one-offs (the ship needs to get from here-to-there for the upcoming season).
The EU and UK have added new travel authorizations. These are not visas, which are legal permissions to visit. Long ago, western nations agreed to visa-free travel between certain countries to facilitate business and tourism. After 9/11, the problems with this approach were apparent. The US was first off the mark with ESTA, the Electronic System for Travel Authorization. The EU has been trying to initiate a similar system called ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) for a decade, and it’s still not in effect! The UK has rolled out its Electronic Travel Authorization or ETA. All of these are administrative reviews done online. You pay some money, submit personal/travel data, and get a response which verifies your data is tied to your passport and good for travel over a specified period (usually 2+ years). The processes are simple and should be quick, as long as you haven’t been naughty, traveled to odd locations, or have a name like Bill Bin Laden. Anyway, what do you need to know? You need to complete the process before you travel! And it may apply to transit at airports, too. We were returning from Rome via London/Heathrow, and neither the government, the airport, nor the airlines could assure me we would not leave the secure area of the airport to make our connections, so we could technically “enter” the UK and need ETA. We got it (instantly) as a precaution, and it’s good for two years. Better safe than sorry. When the EU’s ETIAS comes online, you’ll need to do the same for continental Europe. Be prepared! (Late update: the Heathrow Express bus ran between the terminals on the secure side, so we didn’t need our ETA at all. But if we had checked luggage, we might have needed it.)

We remain impressed with Spain’s national train system. It was one of the worst in Europe, but a few years back, the government stopped controlling the market, let in competition, and invested in infrastructure (courtesy of the EU). The results have been tremendous. You can get comfortable, high-speed train tickets for 20-40 Euros that take you quickly cross country. Most of the lines connect in Madrid, but even with the connections they are fast. We were just on a fast line from Madrid that clocked in at 299 kph (that’s 186 mph!). There are plenty of locals lines (cercanias), trams, a few subways, and of course many busses. On the high speed network, both Renfe (the Spanish national line) and Iryo (a Italian-Spanish consortium) impressed us. Comfortable cars, multiple classes, good service, even good food at the cafeteria car. We were less impressed with Ouigo (the French-owned alternative) which seems to have adopted the budget airline model of customer service. But all were quick and inexpensive. Pro-tip: if you’re visiting Spain and moving around, skip the airports and use the train. Just book your tickets early, as there are huge discounts for early booking and the trains do fill up. Second pro-tip: if you take a high-speed train, your ticket is good for local travel before/after the main ride (ie., getting to/from the train station on other trains/trams or connecting between trains).
Maybe everybody else knows this, but here goes in case someone doesn’t: we like keeping up with the news/shows we watch regularly while we travel. So we bring a long our Firestick and remote, then plug it into the smart TVs every hotel/rental has. It updates automatically to the new television, then brings up our channels, viewing apps, etc., all as we like it. Perhaps it’s just because we use YouTube TV (not YouTube, which is different) on the Firestick. But I’m betting other streaming devices and providers have similar options. It’s a nice touch of home, and takes up very little space (about the size of an electric shaver). Don’t forget an international plug adapter!

Nos encanta Alicante

I’m sure a few friends are thinking, “where?” Alicante (ah-lee-KAHN-tay) is one of those places which hasn’t really made it onto the cognitive map of most Americans and Canadians, but the English know it well! Nestled on Spain’s southeast coast, due south of better-known Valencia, Alicante is the largest city along the Costa Blanca, 200 kilometers of pristine beaches overlooked by looming mountains. Alicante has become a tourism hotbed for Germans and English, and the latter group includes a sizable population of permanent expats (even after Brexit). Sizable as in almost 20% of the local population!

Despite entering the month of June, the weather in Alicante was a bit better than Andalusia. Slightly more humid, slightly cooler, perhaps due to the moderating effect of the Mediterranean Sea. The city itself is not that large, about 350k at last count. But it is large enough to have all the accoutrements of city life, with the added benefits (or is it drawbacks) of tourist attractions. Within five blocks of our apartment in the tourist zone, about ten blocks from the beach, we passed a Taco Bell, McDonald’s, KFC, Burger King (Rey de la hamburguesa?) and Five Guys. Sigh. But a million tapas, cervecerias, and arrocerias, too.

As is our custom, we took a food tour, and this time I decided to shoot some photos before we woofed down the food. Among the delicacies pictured: marcona almonds, ensalada with tuna and egg white, mojama (dried tuna with roe in a cold vegetable salad, warm baccalau (creamy fried cod) in a tomato sauce, and the pièce de résistance (slippin’ in some français there!), a montadito (lil’ sandwich) with Iberian ham, foie gras, rocket, and covered in a turrón sauce. Turrón is a local delicacy made (especially around Christmas) from those marcona almonds into a lightly sweet nougat. But at Sento tapas bar, they created a montadito, called the Ivan, which won best tapa in Alicante a few years back, and we can attest: it’s a legend! The salty cured ham, the bite of the rocket, the nutty sweetness of the turrón, and umami from the foie gras mixed to create a perfect savory treat. Pro-tip: when visiting a city for more than a day, reserve a slot early on with a food tour. It will introduce you to other interesting travelers, give you a local point of contact, and set you up to explore the city’s cuisine flawlessly.

The tourist/beach vibe was strong in Alicante. We saw folks headed down toward the beach early in the morning, and last-minute returnees as late as 10:00 pm (dead give-away? Nobody takes their beach umbrella on a tapas crawl). The Costa Blanca is basically one long beach, so finding a strip to your liking is easy. Developers have taken to dropping a cascade of high-rises just off the beach strip, but there’s still plenty of room in the sand and nothing cordoned off as private property (as far as we could tell).

Locals were already preparing for the big local happening, the Hogueras de San Juan (bonfires of St. John) which will happen June 24th-29th. Christian missionaries took the pagan rites of lighting fires for the Summer solstice and “blessed” them as an offering in honor of St. John the Baptist (yes, this really happened, and it is commemorated in an official ceremony). Now it’s a week-long festival where barrios build giant wood-and-paper mâché figures, which compete in a citywide vote, before being lit on fire in a special beach ceremony in the middle of the night. The neighborhoods hold public block parties, authorities relax open container laws, and the entire downtown turns into one big party zone (late, loud, but generally well-behaved). There are numerous parades which include women (especially) getting dressed up in period costumes and, well, parading. A local told us (like many places we’ve been), locals are split about the Hogueras: you either love it and participate in it, or get the heck out of town for a week. All we saw was the elaborate signage and decoration going up, designating the parade routes, the barrio fiestas, and the sponsors. I’ll choose to read about it from the quietude of Mexico (sarcasm font)!

We did some less touristy things, but more in line with apartment hunting, such as riding the tram and metro lines from one end to the other to get a feel for different neighborhoods. We’ve also contacted a local firm to consider a long-term rental for next year, perhaps as another form of trying the experience out. With such a rental (approximately 90 days), we could really settle in and even take some regional trips from the home-base. One local told us we might be able to establish the kind of relationship which would allow for a semi-permanent rental agreement, sort of a “preferred customer” thing where we could even leave some clothes and things behind for next year. We’ll see.

Why did Alicante impress us so much more than Sevilla (which was totally surprising to me)? Sevilla has more history, more culture, for sure. Cuisine is a wash: both have great food. Locals were equally friendly in both, although we saw a few signs of tourism fatigue in Sevilla. Alicante is just more live-able: cooler, with the tourist pull being the beach, not the old town. And it’s considerably less expensive.

So if you’re visiting Spain, you must visit Sevilla. If you want to hit a beach town, Alicante is just one of many in Spain. For living, the situation changes. I guess it’s a supply-and-demand thing: there is only one Sevilla, (limited supply, unlimited demand) but many great beach towns (unlimited supply, limited demand).

Don’t rain on my (stupid) parade!

Usually, social media nonsense runs off me like water off a soldier’s poncho. But this time, it forced me to summon my inner soldier. Be forewarned: this post may contain flashing anger, strong language, smokin’ rhetoric, but no nudity. At least I think not.

There is a specter haunting DC. A threat so terrible it must be stopped. A crime against all that is holy, humane, and intelligent. It is wasteful of time and money, unnecessary, and potentially damaging to our delicate infrastructure. It is a birthday celebration. And a parade.

On June 14th, the US Army is going to celebrate its 250th anniversary. It’s going to have a big parade in Washington, DC. Army leaders love parades; soldiers don’t. I know. As a onetime cadet and alum of the “long, gray line,” I participated in more parades than most any other soldier (short of the Old Guard at Arlington). We paraded twice a week, sometimes three times when Saturday seemed like too much of a day-off. And I hated all of it: the getting ready, the practice parades, the occasional mid-parade rainstorm, the cold north wind blowing down the Hudson river, the sunburn on one’s exposed ears. I still have “too late/not ready” dreams about West Point parades, as my subconscious seeks something about which to stress.

That’s me . . . I’m the one in the gray.

I hated all the parades, but one. I got “awarded” to march in President Reagan’s inaugural parade (depicted above). The reward was a heavily-policed bus ride to a barracks in Virginia, locked in for a night so we couldn’t commit any misdemeanors, then the honor of being the lead military unit (oldest unit comes first) in the parade line, which put us first after all the horse-mounted civilians. Yes, a great pair of corfam shoes ruined, and trousers which forever after had the faint hint of horseshit. But it was worth it, I think.

So I speak from no love of parades. But I do have great respect for the Army. It deserves a celebration. It didn’t choose to be born on June 14th, 1775. The Continental Congress created it that day. Nor did it choose to make 2025 a special anniversary. The Navy will celebrate the same on October 13th. The Navy won’t have a parade: they’re terrible at marching (just watch any Army-Navy football game march-on). Perhaps they will have a group swim, although I once told a naval officer “isn’t there something terribly gone wrong when a sailor is ‘in’ not ‘on’, the water?” He was unamused. The Marine Corps will celebrate this year, too, on November 10th (of course) The Marines are also eschewing a parade. They would be magnificent if they did it, with 3D holograms of beach landings, drone fireworks, and 24 hour press coverage, naturally. The Air Force will have nothing, as they are about as old as a great Scotch. But I digress.

The parade should be a blast: over 6,000 soldiers with full guidon regalia. Army aviation flyovers. Storied units, with some soldiers in era-appropriate gear (Even I would sign up for that. Hell, I marched in wool–not Merino wool, by the way–in a uniform design from the war of 1812. It combined the breathability of polyester with the smell of damp sheep). This parade should be a visual re-collection of our nation’s history , and one not likely to be recreated in our lifetimes.

Yet something about the Army’s parade has set people’s collective hair on fire. I can’t put a finger on it. Some say it will cost too much; estimates range from US$16-45 million! One note: when estimates range that widely, they’re basically what the Brits call shite. If you count things like “military pay,” “overtime,” and “training time loss” and give them monetary value, you can make a cost estimate as large as you like. President Obama’s inaugural cost the government a very real US$50 million. The federal government spends $50 million every four years on each of the party nominating conventions. The DOD Comptroller reported in 2023 the department spent US$86 million on diversity activities. And the list goes on. Somehow, this one-time, semiquincentennial expense alone merits unique opposition.

But it’s not only about the cost. There are serious national security concerns, too, I’m told. Those soldiers won’t be training. As if one week-plus of downtime was going to be the difference next war. One numbnuts (a technical Army term for someone who should know better) actually said ‘the Army was wasting time and money moving heavy vehicles cross country rather than using them for training.’ Learning how to cross-load an M1 Abrams tank correctly on a train at a railhead, planning the routes so it doesn’t get decapitated by a bridge, and getting all the supplies, fuel, and parts to the right place at the right time ARE training, amigo. Better yet are those who complain that the vehicles might harm DC roads (have you driven there? There are potholes which could double as anti-tank barriers!) or perhaps damage the bridges. Hmmm. Guess the Army never learned how to check that out. Or maybe it already did (hint: Google is your friend):

So many opinions, so few bother to fact-check . . . Army M1 Abrams tank crossing Arlington Memorial bridge, 1991

So no, this isn’t about cost, nor is it about damages, nor is it about military preparedness. This is all about one thing, and one thing only: Donald J. Trump. It seems the Army had the great misfortune to share its birthday with the 47th President of the United States. For that sin, people are calling for the parade to be cancelled, and some idjiots are even planning a protest.

During his first term, French President Macron invited then-president Trump to attend the massive Bastille day military parade in Paris. Trump was impressed, and wanted to do the same in Washington. Not because there was any reason to do so, just because he wanted to do so. It never happened. Now there is an excuse. Do I think Trump readily agreed to any request for an Army birthday celebratory parade? Of course he did. Do I imagine the Army seized on the opportunity? I hope so. If the Army staff didn’t point out the fact there will never be more White House support for a parade than this President, this year, it was malpractice. Every interest group looks for White House support. It just so happens the Army got lucky.

So riddle me this, Batman: if Trump were born on the same day as the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr, would we be calling to “stand down” vice “stand up” that day? If the Army held its parade on June 13th, would it be ok? Sometimes dates and commemorations are inconvenient. I know people who were born or got married on September 11th; should they not celebrate because of the terrible evil of that day? I don’t feel I am going out on a limb to say the Army will only have one 250th birthday; why spoil it because of someone else?

If you hate Donald Trump, you have a lot of company. Get together and hold a birthday party for Harriet Beecher Stowe, Burl Ives, Pierre Salinger, Che Guevara (!), Pat Summitt, Boy George, Steffi Graf, or the United States Army, all of whom share birth-dates. You can resume your non-stop hatred the next morning, and I’m sure there will be something about which to be angry. In the meantime, tell a soldier “happy birthday” and buy them a drink. If you’re in or near DC, show up and give them some love. They’re marching whether you’re there or not, but I’ll admit, an enthusiastic crowd is at least a distraction from the horse turds.

Everybody else: drop the silly pretenses, and leave my (stupid) parade alone.

You say Seville, yo se Sevilla

Our two-week sojourn in Andalusia is coming to an end. We based ourselves in Sevilla (say-VEE-ah), better known in English as Seville. Our small (50m2) apartment was next to Santa Maria la Blanca church, at the edge of the old Jewish quarter (judería) in the old town. Literally in one of those tiny alleyways the city is famous for: the first thing our taxi-driver told us was how he couldn’t get us there (too small).

Those teeny pedestrian alleys are a feature, not a bug. Temps hit over 38° Celsius while we visited (100° F!). Out in the sun, you quickly realize the importance of . . . not being out in the sun. But hit those alleyways, and the shade includes a blast of cool air, as the winding passages not only keep the sun/heat out, they channel winds like canyons do naturally. Pro-tip: navigate the alleys during the days, even if they take longer, because they are far more confortable.

Cathedral, alcázar, horse-drawn carriages, and tourists, all-in-one

Our apartment location was perfect: fifteen minutes (or less) walk to the Cathedral, the train stations, the Setas, the Triana market, just about everything. Sevilla is an eminently walkable place,and what extra exploration we wanted to do was available by tram, a very limited subway, or an excellent train system (local and high-speed).

This trip we wanted to settle in and enjoy the local rhythms (so to speak), while checking out neighborhoods in case we want to set up a home-base here. So we had no tight sight-seeing schedule, but rather tried to simulate living (vice visiting) here. We did decide not to try cooking too much; while the apartment had a basic set of kitchenware, cooking anything beyond the most simple dishes would have been too inconvenient (for the chef and the dish-washer). That and Sevilla is famous for its tapas bars, so why not?

Casa Morales, a tapas bar favored by locals (but known to tourists, too)

I’ve seen estimates there are more than 3,000 tapas bars in Sevilla. Having walked the town for two weeks, I think it’s an undercount. As you may know, tapas probably originated in Andalusia, most likely as free snacks placed on small plates atop drinks (to keep the flies away). In many places in Spain, tapas remain this way. But tapas in Sevilla evolved: they have become a cultural tradition. They are not free. They come in different sizes (tapas for one, raciones to share, plato for a meal). They highlight local delicacies and fusion of different cuisines.

And they are delicious! Carrillada (beef or pork cheeks) and rabo del toro (Bull’s tale) are slow-cooked, savory, and fork-tender. Every kind of fried fish, including things like cod, squid, octopus, cuttlefish, anchovies and dogfish. Pringa (pork stew) on a sandwich! Spinach and garbanzos, a warm, flavorful side dish, and of course, jamón iberico. These thin slices of the most succulent pork one can imagine, salty and sweet (some are only fed acorns), and accompanied by a surfeit of local cheeses. The servings sizes may be small, but the flavors are immense and quite filling. We regularly planned more tapas than we would order, and sometimes even more than we could eat.

Tried to take a long-resolution photo, but we ate too fast. Had tuna tartar, patatas bravas, and tuna brioche

We tried to meld our normal daily schedule with Spanish approaches. Breakfast (desayuno, literally “de” as in ending and sayunar as in fasting) is small here, usually a coffee and perhaps a small, sweet pastry. Late morning, Spaniards will have a snack (almuerzo), often some toast with olive oil and/or tomato rubbed on it (very good). Lunch is a big meal, often eaten in groups, where plates of tapas, etc., are shared. There can be another round of snacking (merienda) in the later afternoon, with dinner (not usually a big meal as in the West) not before 8:00 or even 10:00 pm! We had a single, big breakfast of coffee, fresh bakery items and pan con tomate, did some sight-seeing or neighborhood recon, then hit a tapas bar for one-of-everything, por favor. That was it for our eating day (we gave up eating dinner a few years back, which neither of us miss), although I usually had a little merienda in the afternoon.

Funny thing about tapas bars: we made a point of getting to some of the more famous ones, but every one we went to was between good and great. Businesses, especially food businesses, take great pride in their offerings here. Heck, the snack bars at the train station had better-than-average food. So you don’t really need to squeeze into a reservation slot at La Bartola, just walk around and follow these rules:

Start at any major tourist sites and walk away from it, using the smallest street you can find.
Look for places with no English-language menu offered.
Look for places which do advertise their seasonal tapas or a “menú del día.”
Select the place with the most locals eating there.
Ask the waiter “que me recomienda” (Kay may reck-oh-mee-END-ah”) to get their advice.

Never fails. And don’t be too strict in applying these rules. In a very touristy town like Sevilla, many local places have started putting English-language signs up (as they work for nearly ALL tourists). And maybe there aren’t any locals in the bar because it’s not local eating time. Be flexible! We did eat at places like La Bartola (we even walked in without reservations and only a short wait), and it was also very good. Sadly, such places have become “Insta-fodder,” overrun by younger tourists trying to be totally themselves by doing what everybody else is doing on social media. #signofthetimes.

I tried my wine experiments yet again, with great results. One is to just ask for the vino de casa (house wine) which is usually very nice. The other is to walk into any supermarket, go to the local wine section, and pick the first bottle I see. This trip it was a local red blend called Mucho Más and it was . . . excellent. For E3.50 (about $4.00 USD). Priceless.

We took a food tour, which by luck turned into a private tour with just us on it. Since we had already visited once, and already knew much about Andalusian cuisine, we spent more time talking about living in Seville and other cultural points. Our guide pointed out that while most people know to try pan con tomate for breakfast, the locals go one step further. Take your toast and give it a solid dose of extra-virgin olive oil. Let it set for a minute. Then, instead of simply rubbing on tomato puree, pour on Salmorejo, a cold, tomato-based, rich soup full of garlic. This local delicacy (Salmorejo) is beloved as a refreshing break from the meat-heavy tapas menus, but I never would have thought of it for a breakfast topping!

As for touristy things, we did visit las setas, a very recent (2011) all-wood art monument resembling giant mushrooms. The lower level has a small museum with some ancient artifacts uncovered during the construction, the ground level with shops and cafes, then a top level with a very good observation point over the city, albeit a trifle pricey (E16@). Some say the view is especially fantastic at sunset, and there is a light show on the Setas once dark sets in. Pro-tip: it doesn’t get dark before 10:30 pm in tourist season, so plan accordingly!

The people give a “little” perspective on the immensity of the structure

We also attended laudes and mass in the altar mayor (main altar) in the cathedral. It’s free for those wishing to worship, but worth the ticket (and audio guide) just to take in the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. The security folks gave us the side-eye when we said we wanted to attend services, and they did hover nearby throughout, making sure no one tried to otherwise enjoy the setting in a touristy way. Necessary if not welcoming, but understandable nonetheless. I did sneak a photo of Christopher Columbus’ tomb, camouflaging it as a photo of one of the priests at our mass (mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!)

Critóbal Colón, held aloft by four kings of España!

Other sites worth visiting are the Archivo de Indias, which contains all the Spanish correspondence about the New World during the age of exploration. Ever wonder why Brazil speaks Portuguese and mostly the rest of South America Spanish? Blame the Pope and the treaty of Tordesillas, which divided the entire world between Spain and Portugal. The records of the Conquistadores? All here. Free to visit, too! Nearby is the Torre de Oro, a small former watchtower which contains a very nice Spanish naval museum (they did win at Lepanto, after all, if not with the Armada) and views of the city for a small donation.

Our verdict on Sevilla? Very friendly, very easy to get around, very delicious. Oh, and very hot, even in mid- to late-May. Excellent hub as a home base, but still a little pricey for apartments. We liked the suburbs of Dos Hermanas, close enough for a ten-minute local train service. Jerez de la Frontera (whence the fortified wine sherry gets its name) is much closer to Cádiz, and also very enticing, but seems a little far afield. Our biggest concern is the heat. No one wants to be trapped in an air conditioned apartment from 1000-1800, or longer. The heat is so oppressive it reminded us of a winter visit to Quebec City where we simply walked from café to café downing chocolat chaud. Here the opposite extreme: I started drinking the local lager, Cruzcampo, just because it was cold! This was an extreme heat event, and it made the local news. But as we all have experienced, such “rare” events are becoming more common.

We’re headed east to the coast to try that out next!

A Very Concrete Metaphor

We’re on a European trip and we had the great pleasure to spend a day and night in Barcelona. We chose a hotel just a block from the Sagrada Familia Basílica, and a room with a view thereof. Spectacular. I’m sure most of my friends are generally familiar with the story of Atoni Gaudí (1852-1926) and his plans to build Sagrada Familia. He started in 1882, and it’s nearing completion today. Some of his ideas for construction had to await new technologies to be realized. The Basilica itself somehow escaped destruction during the Spanish Civil War (1936-39), when most churches in Catalonia were ransacked and destroyed, and even Gaudí’s original plans were burned. As I watched the daylight settle on the almost finished structure, the view itself changed before my eyes. Gaudí designed it to highlight different parts depending on the time of day!

And then it struck me that I was witnessing a very concrete metaphor for the Catholic Church itself. The more I probed, the deeper the connection presented itself.

It is the work of millennia, not yet finished and perhaps never will it be. Begun before electricity became commonplace, sons have become grandfathers working to finish Sagrada Familia. And yet it still needs more work to realize its master’s vision. Asked how faithful Catholics can remain so when confronted with whatever outrage presents itself, we respond, “as it was in the beginning, is now, and ever shall be, world without end, Amen!” We are not promised perfection (or completion) in our lifetime, only in eternity. If you do demand it, you expect too much.

It is beautiful, for its own sake. How many times have you heard someone say, “wouldn’t it have been better to spend all that money on the poor?” Folks who mouth those words may not know they are quoting scripture, as Judas (who wants to play that part?) scolded Mary (of Mary, Martha, and Lazarus fame) for “wasting” a year’s wages on perfume for Jesus’ feet, and Jesus replied: “You always have the poor with you, but you do not always have me” (John 12:8). Yes, we could melt down the Statue of Liberty for scrap, or sell off all the works in the Met and feed the hungry. But for all those hungry for food, there are even more hungry for beauty. Everyone needs beauty in life, and all should have their fill (not just those who can afford to visit the Metropolitan Museum!).

It is always in danger of becoming that which it is not. The Basilica is a House of God. But you can’t really visit it to pray. There are certain “free” masses, but the tourist groups fill them before the lines can even form. Sometimes you can wrangle some time in the crypt church, but otherwise you buy a ticket. This is understandable as the structure is a quite spectacular tourist attraction. But Saint Peter’s is more so, and free. The Duomo in Milan is similar in stature, and you can still enter to pray or attend exposition, gratis. Much like in the days of Martin Luther, the Church must constantly be on guard lest it become too this-worldly, and not enough other-worldly.

It is permanent, yet constantly changing. The Catholic Church has been in a battle with modernity since around the beginning of the twentieth century. After the famous Vatican II ecumenical council (1962-65), many outsiders (and some Catholics) expected the Church to “get with the times,” as in change fundamental doctrines. That it didn’t happen has been a sore point ever since for those who expected it to. But the Catholic Church has something called the Deposit of the Faith, and the Pope and his fellow Bishops are responsible for safe-guarding it, not changing it. Doctrine can “develop,” but the authenticity of any developments is demonstrated by how the fundamentals remain the same after the “change.” Gaudí’s towers and spires look amazingly different in the morning and evening light, yet remain fixed physical structures; thus it is for the Church, too. There are other places which welcome a more flexible, with-it vibe. Peace be with them.

It is a compromise between an eternal vision and an earthly reality. The immensely high towers could not be constructed from the materials available when Gaudí envisioned them. Money ran short, time and again. Adjacent structures had to be razed, dispossessing their owners. Progress was retarded by both the Spanish Flu (1918) and the Covid pandemic (2019). Construction exhausted a stone quarry in Montserrat, and England came to the rescue. The Church proceeds, always two steps forward and one step back, always trying to reconcile human frailty with Divine mercy and Divine justice.

It can be used and abused, for good or for ill. Millions are moved simply by the sight of it. Thousands swarm its perimeter, hawking everything from bird-calls to kitschy, plastic Jesus souvenirs. It inspires spontaneous prayers and premeditated pick-pockets. Just so the Church has been a refuge for sinners and swindlers, a hospital for the sick and haven for scoundrels.

It is a temple “not made by human hands” yet of this earthly domain. Gaudí’s design is organic. Its spires and columns resemble trees stretching up from the earth, ending in branches and grape clusters and sheaves (you know, “bringin’ in the sheaves”). It somehow appears to have grown there, rather than placed there as so many other edifices do. Yet its complicated history suggests it was placed there, just not by Gaudí, nor any of the builders. So, too, the Church which endured Roman persecution, barbarian invasion, schism and Reformation, crusade and jihad, Nazism and Communism, state capture and modern indifference. There it stands, demanding your notice.

Thus shall it ever be.